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I would. They want to completely rule out that their transmission is bad in case something happens. The main thing you need is a receipt or purchase order for the converter. If you’re worried it would be best to purchase a converter from the same source as the tranny that way it is all logged on their side in case of failure.
I should have mentioned that the warranty is also voided if not installed by a certified mechanic. I’m doing it myself and am not certified, so no warranty anyway. Is replacing the torque converter still a good idea anyway?
More than necessary. With clutched converters, the converter is often the cause of transmission failure.
I’m surprised the rebuilt transmission didn’t come with one. I vote to replace it. It’s just as much work to go back and replace it later. Better safe than sorry. More info on torque converters here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-transmission-problems
Thanks Eric, I have learned much from your videos. I ordered the TC today- I agree better safe than sorry!
Also flush out the transmission cooler in the radiator. GM has very small passage veins and clog easy.
When a transmission fails all of the debris from the failure goes through the whole transmission, including the converter. There is NO way to clean the converter properly since it’s sealed.
If you install the old converter on the fresh transmission and debris inside will contaminate the whole thing.
Be sure you flush the trans cooler both ways as it stores a lot of junk when a trans fails. You can buy cleaner specially made to do the job.
Okay, I’ve got my new torque converter and spent last weekend doing the tranny swap. I get all the way to where I’m lowering the assembly onto the re-installed cross bar and notice that things are not lining up as they should. Then I try to re-attach the drive shaft and it bottoms out on the tranny output spline before I the rear end u-joint will go back together. Then I notice that the bell housing shape is different than mine and doesn’t have the mounting holes for the cover screw. I put a tape measure on both transmissions from end to end and the new one is about an inch longer than the old one! They both are stamped with the same part number GM 4L60E. The seller is telling me that this is my problem, not his.
Anyone have a clue as to how this could have happened? My service manual and dealer both confirm that my van was equipped with a 4L60E and that is what I bought for a replacement. How could two parts with the same number stamped on them be so physically different?
To make them different lengths, they make many different length extension housings. When you buy a rebuilt transmission it comes with an extension housing but often it is only there to keep out the dirt during shipping. If the length is wrong use the extension housing off of the old transmission.
If the body of the transmission is a different length then that’s a problem.
I checked- the box is the same as the old one and body is an inch longer. If I could figure out how to get the driveshaft onto the diff then this thing might work. The bolts that keep the u-joint together have to go on after the spider is connected. I’ve seen some that have a flange that slips onto the diff after the u-joint is assembled to the driveshaft, but not in this case.
The seller says he’ll refund my purchase price, less original shipping and core charge if I ship his transmission back to him. I called the freight company and they say the cheapest rate I can get is $612 if I bring it to their terminal which is 20 miles away. I would loose less if I just let the seller keep all of the money I’ve paid him and toss the transmission into the bin.
I just had a thought, what if I cut just enough off of the driveshaft’s female spline to slide it forward and connect the u-joint. Even if I could get it together without doing that the splines meet at a hard stop and there is no room for movement between the trans ouput spline and the end of the driveshaft’s female spline.
I wonder if the bell housing is different. If it is, perhaps you can swap your old bell housing for the new.
I feel your pain. I’ve run into similar issues after an install and had to go back and do the work all over again. Painful lessons we sometimes learn.
Keep us posted.
Thanks. The thing that I find truly perplexing is that I don’t know how to order what my van needs. Even my NAPA store seems a little unsure when it comes to my transmission. My van is a GMC Savana 2500 but it is not a true 3/4 ton because it has the 5L engine and 6 lug wheels. I asked them to quote a rebuilt 4L60E and they say that they don’t show one for the 2500 but they do for the 1500. My local GMC dealer looked-up the VIN and said the van came with the 4L60E. Maybe I’ll just take it to a reputable transmission shop and pay them to rebuild my tranny- let them figure it out.
The eBay seller talks down to me like I’m an idiot. He can’t form coherent sentences while I have a BSME and am a damned decent mechanic. Eric, what do you think about my idea of cutting an inch off of the drive shaft’s female spline. I can later fashion a bell housing cover to fit and tap some mounting holes in the bell for screws. Seems like there is plenty of engagement at the spline and it would allow me to mount the drive shaft. Everything else goes together alright. Otherwise do you think the 4L60E would perform in my van or am I being stupid? I”m 99% there- I just want to fill it with Dex6 and drive it already!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=111261]I wonder if the bell housing is different. If it is, perhaps you can swap your old bell housing for the new.
I feel your pain. I’ve run into similar issues after an install and had to go back and do the work all over again. Painful lessons we sometimes learn.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Eric, you nailed it- the extra inch is in the bell housing! I’ll check carefully about swapping them but this could be the answer.
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