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As a fun fact, Manufacturers have a specific term for only being able to put this together one way… that term is called “Poka-Yoke…” meaning “error proof,” “mistake proof,” or as we call it where I work, “stupid proof” (I work in manufacturing). It is designed so that it is impossible to put this together the wrong way.
As each of my kids started driving, each started with a beater. I would help them rebuild parts rather than buying a reman so they would understand how the part worked. Anybody else here ever rewound a starter motor? 🙂 You won’t make flat rate…
Great video actually. There’s nothing like the school of hard knocks.
For all the exams I’ve written, the only questions I remember were the ones I got wrong, as it annoyed me so greatly.
Three things come to mind for that frustrating pump.
I don’t like Honda’s single bolt asymmetric clamping design on the inlet stub. Clamping forces should have symmetry.
When working with O-rings I use about a 3-power magnifying lens with the goal of really good cleanliness for the groves, surfaces, and the O-rings themselves. One speck of fluff will sink you.
Third, and maybe most importantly, what is the shaft seal sealing? The seal behind the bearing. As installed, the pressure side should be facing the pump rotor. Could that seal be seeping air into the pump?
This is a good video i to have to replace my powersteering pump its been leaking and on top of that its not a factory pump going to replace it with a new Honda pump. I just hope i dont have to remove the passengers side engine mount bracket since i just replaced the engine mount on that side. In the service maunal it says to remove it but looks like i can just remove the belt and bolts and lines and pull it straight up. Well see how it go’s
Great video.
Would it be an idea to find the airleak by using grease around all of the leak-candidates and see where the grease is sucked in?
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