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  • #471578

    In the final stages of rebuilding a 98 civic with a b18c1/b16a rebuild, had bad piston rings ,valves,and valve seals. Got everything replaced/machined and am now in the final stages. I have the head on and bolts torqued,cams on(w/o cam rails) timing belt not yet on..and never removed it because it is not worn at all, i just want to know what exactly i need to do so that everything goes back and starts.
    Running out of time & money so the advice will be much appreciated.

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  • #471702
    MikhailMikhail
    Participant

      Just make sure the mechanical timing is correct, this is the most crucial, as well as the valve lash is correct. Ignition timing is important as well (did you mark the distributer when you took it off?).

      As long as you put everything such as the bolts and parts in bags with labels on them, re-assembly will be a breeze. In terms of the timing belt, you may want to download the official manual for your civic:

      Should be under “Civic 1996-2000 EJ6, EJ7, EJ8, EM1 includes Si B16A2”

      If you look for guides you will surely find them.

      In fact, Eric has a video about tming belts for 98 civics:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoJcAS58CHg

      Look and you will find what you need, its already there on the internet:

      About Timing Belts

      #471774
      EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
      Keymaster

        +1 on making sure everything is in time. You also want to make sure everything is coated with assembly lube and that your oil pump is primed with grease or you prime it before you start the engine.

        Some say not to worry about break in and just drive the heck out of it when you first start out and they may be right to some degree but this is how I’ve done it for years.

        #471815
        ZodZod
        Participant

          As to the distributor, I imagine not much has really changed from the ’60’s through ’80’s cars I did some real work on. Well, dwell isn’t an issue anymore, but..

          Just make sure the rotor is pointing to cylinder #1, and everything is TDC when you reassemble. This should be close enough to run. Jumper, or remove the jumper (varies between makes) to disable the computer from adjusting the time, and manually set it to spec with a timing light. Remove the jumper, or re-jumper, and the computer is back in control.

          The computer in my 91 Camry can adjust time more than 25 degrees, but having the static time correct will improve performance, as it can only compensate so much.

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