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I’m wondering how to properly adjust the parking brake cable on my Buick, I’m assuming its the same with all W-Bodies.
I replaced rear pads about 6k miles ago I’ve noticed slack in the parking brake ever since.
While I’m here I also a have a failing cabin air temperature sensor. Anyone know how to remove the cosmetic cover under the steering wheel without damaging anything so I can inspect the part? Searching online yields two separate parts that appear to snap together.
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LaCrosse, the title header didn’t allow me enough room to input the whole thing.
Same platform as the GP in your picture, 2006 + W-Body.
i am pretty sure the LaCrosse has disc brakes in the rear, same thing as my grand prix, i could be wrong…
It does, I bought the tool to rotate the rear piston back into place, however the cable mechanism that engages the rear parking break has developed slack since putting the new rear pads and rotors in. I know some vehicles have the adjustment under the center console while others are adjusted directly near the rear caliper. I’m wondering which one it is and what procedure it is.
It does, I bought the tool to rotate the rear piston back into place, however the cable mechanism that engages the rear parking brake has developed slack since putting the new rear pads and rotors in. I know some vehicles have the adjustment under the center console while others are adjusted directly near the rear caliper. I’m wondering which one it is and what procedure it is.
It appears I have to trace both rear parking brake cables back to a single cable from the pedal and there should be a nut that you tighten that will take up the slack.
[quote=”Texarkana” post=146448]It appears I have to trace both rear parking brake cables back to a single cable from the pedal and there should be a nut that you tighten that will take up the slack.[/quote]
I believe this is how you make the adjustment, but it’s puzzling that it happened after pad replacement. I’m wondering if something got bumped or moved during the procedure. I’d recommend you go back over that work before you make the adjustment just to be on the safe side.
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
Just wonderful. Car holds in gear, except for reverse with parking brake engaged.
Took it all apart and the passenger rear caliper is sticking. Smelled a little burnt when I got it all apart.
What next? I’m assuming a reman or new caliper?
Update.
I purchased new brake hardware from AA for one side of the vehicle after not noticing warped threads and cross threading a bolt. After inspection of the pins the side I replaced doesn’t slide as smoothly as the side that was factory. The rubber grommit for the side that won’t slide easily looks slightly larger.
Before I know who to bitch at let me give you some details..
I also purchased white lithuim grease to lube the pins as directed by a guy at car quest. I’m assuming it’s safe for rubber but correct me if I’m wrong.
Could this issue have the caliper issue and the issue with the pads?
Well it appears I’ve found the culprit…. The guide pin in question will push all the way in but not allowed the caliper to move away from the rotor. One rotor is darker than the other and is slightly blue.
Called Advanced Auto and asked them about the grease, they ok’d it for rubber. I then told them the issue and they said bring it in this afternoon.
If they acknowledge the screw up they owe me new brake hardware along with pads and rotors.
This will be the LAST TIME I purchase aftermarket anything for my car. I used an Autozone Trans filter a few years back and ended up with fluid Cavitation and rough shifting after changing my fluid. Popped a AC Delco in her and it fixed the issue.
Well, they replaced the rear hardware for that side with the slide due to some kind of freak defect. Driver rear pads had taper on both top and bottom, so the pads weren’t making full contact. Got it all back together and took it for a test drive, stops just the same as it did so no worry there. I also put in neutral and pushed from the front and rear with all my weight behind it and it won’t budge, however the parking brake pedal still goes down was far as the design will allow when beforehand when before it would click 3-4 times and couldn’t get it go any farther.
I also checked both rears and the driver side (the one with the screwed up guide pin) and that particular rotor was putting off more heat than the other side. I also noticed at times the vehicle pulled to the driver side upon braking but only happened when I was on the left side of the road crown.. I’m back to stuck caliper piston at this point. When it first pulled the caliper off as shown in the photos the driver rear caliper was extended noticeably more than the passenger side. I’ve also read incorrectly adjusted parking brakes can cause a piston to stick. The only thing that is off is if this issue has been going on for a while why has my rotor not warped or pads cracked/glazed over?
From what I can gather online and from looking at the caliper itself the adjustment is either done under the vehicle, under the center console, under the carpet near the parking brake pedal itself or I noticed a nut wrapped around by a spring that seemed to tension the parking brake cable as it entered the caliper.
Anyone care to hypothesize what the issue could be despite the fact I could fully rotate the driver rear caliper piston back into place?
I also completely flushed my brake fluid (pushed over a half gallon through the system) last fall and I noticed my brake fluid reservoir is full of dark fluid already…
After driving to and from work with no brake pull or overheating driver rear caliper I’ve narrowed it down to either a sticking or faulty brake cable. It seems the caliper only sticks if I’ve applied the parking brake in the very recent past. It takes a while for it to fully retract.
Just got home from night shift so I’ll check those cables out later.
I’m guessing it was caused by the sticking caliper pin.
Anytime brakes get overheated there’s usually an issue that comes up. Sticking cables can cause issues like that so you’re probably on the right track. I often remove them from the caliper or what they mount to and check their operation. They should move smoothly when not connected. If they stick or bind, replace them. You can also use a heat gun to find brake issues.
I realize that information might be late, but someone else reading this thread might benefit.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Well I got off the interstate after work yesterday morning and smelled a god awful burning smell, smelled just like a fried circuit board.
Took the driver rear wheel off and found the issue. I don’t know how I missed it earlier when I took everything apart but somehow the dust boot has popped loose from it groove in the piston itself which would explain why I have slack in my parking brake pedal and why the piston keeps getting stuck.
I went to Oreilly’s and ordered a rebuilt kit for $7 and I’m going to rebuild that caliper on Friday, I have a buddy coming over to assist me with that and bleeding the brakes afterwards.
I’ve never rebuilt a caliper, let alone a rear one and I’m wondering if there’s any special steps I need to take or if I just have to unhook the parking brake cable, use compressed air to pop the piston out and rebuild everything.
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