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It looks like the 06111-P8A-A01 kit has the head gaskets too.., you should not need anything more then whats in that kit.
And from what i found it does not looks like you need to remove the engine block end cover and oil pan but, maybe someone else will know 100%.
Good luck with the job and keep us all posted please.T)I have been doing some reading regarding the removal and reinstall of the tranny. The manual states to use new o-rings and set rings etc, and I will try to have all those available when I do the job.
Does anyone know how to remove the old seal without removing the engine block end cover? I see there is a tool for the in car instillation of a new seal, but the manual doesn’t cover the removal of the old seal. If I have to remove the end cover, do I first have to remove the oil pan?
Cheers,
First I think you need to consider that your going to need an engine brace to hold the engine in place when you remove the subframe, the minute you take that out the engine and transmission will no longer be supported and to be honest doing this job on the ground will be VERY difficult. I think you should consider this before you get too far into it.
As for the oil seal itself you won’t know if that’s really what’s leaking until you remove the transmission and flex plate, sometimes the galley plugs leak. If you find that the seal IS leaking I would strongly recommend an OE replacement. You don’t need to remove the rear plate you can just pry out the old seal and replace it with the new one but once again I can’t stress enough that you will need the proper equipment to remove the subframe. In addition you’re also going to have to remove the front section of the exhaust which may require a torch.
I’m going to post this response to let you all know what has happened the last couple of weeks with this issue, but first some background. I live in Saudi Arabia and have had the car since new. First in Dubai for 5 years, and the last 3 years in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. I ran synthetic oil in Dubai, but switched to Honda oil in Riyadh because I couldn’t find synthetic. Honda sells 15w40 for all it’s vehicles in this market.
About 20,000 km ago I found a shop selling Mobile1, and got a case of 0w40 and started running that. A couple weeks ago I noticed the leak from the engine/trany mounting point.
I immediately did an oil change, back to the Honda brand 15w40 oil, and the leak stopped right away. I cleaned the bottom of the engine with brake cleaner, and with the exception of what I believe to be residual oil seeping out from the torque converter housing, I believe the leak has stopped.
I can’t say for sure, but the Mobile 1 oil may be fake. There is a huge problem in this part of the world and others (India, Pakistan, etc) regarding fake products. This could be car parts, electronics, lubricants, baby food, prescription drugs, etc. Anything that can be faked and sold for big profit is a target. This could be what happened to me, or it could be that the car didn’t like the oil I was feeding it. Anyway, fingers crossed that my issue has been resolved without the need to do a trany R&R.
Cheers,
Pete
It’s not that the Mobile1 is fake, in fact this problem happens a lot, so much so that I don’t recommend running synthetic oil in a vehicle where it’s not called for for the very problem you had. In addition you went to some VERY thin oil in a rather warm climate so I’m not surprised you had the leak that you did, even in the states I think that engine calls for 5W20. Synthetic has very different flow characteristics than regular oil and as a result it tends to cause engines that don’t have leaks to start leaking as well as start burning oil when they weren’t before. I would recommend sticking with the regular oil that is recommended for your climate and change it on a regular basis and you shouldn’t have anymore problems.
5 months later and the oil leak is back, but slower than with the synthetic oil. Looking at options. I don’t trust the mechanics here in the middle east, they are not real mechanics. I’m afraid that if I give them the car it will never be the same. Have been looking at the service manual, I think that if I take my time I can do it myself. There are many little jobs involved (drive shaft removal, exhaust removal etc), but the two that concern me the most is the removal of the tranny and the removal of the rear seal. I am ok with the process of disconnecting the tranny, but the physical effort required to pull it off the engine has me a little concerned. I understand it weighs about 200 lbs. If this job involved opening the engine or tranny I wouldn’t be considering it.
Cheers,
Pete
get yourself a nice transmission jack and go for it. You will also need help sliding the tranny mount back to the engine. Rear main seal is usually pretty easy. Big oil seal that you can either use a screw driver or a small pry bar (or seal puller) between the engine block and the seal. I use small 2×4 block to drive the seal in.
Hold on there man, you’ll also need an engine brace because you need to drop the subframe in order to remove the transmission and I can tell you it’s not an easy task. Also it may not be the seal that’s leaking, I’ve actually found oil galley plugs that leaked as well as a bad casting once that caused an oil leak like that. In addition the rear main seal is part of an assembly that bolts to the back of the block, it may be the seal on that has gone bad causing a leak. You really won’t know till you remove the transmission what you’re dealing with. Lastly I highly recommend OE parts and also put a little grease on the inside of the seal to make sure it isn’t dry when you install it, this will help ensure a lasting repair.
I just spent 4 hours walking around the tool souq (tool store street here in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia) looking for an engine brace. Found only one, but max width of 58 inches. I need 62 inches width bar to span the engine bay of my Honda Pilot. Blue Point has one that is max width 61.5 inches, and very expensive, and a 500 LB limit. I have started looking online for one, but thought I would put this out in the off chance one of you guys/gals know of a model that would work.
Eric, I have done some research on oil galley plugs, and will endeavor to have have some handy when I do this job, but I don’t think that is the problem. As I mentioned before, switching back to a heavier conventional oil caused the leak to stop. Now it is back. I think this is just the fact that the seal is 5 months older.
A quick question about O rings. Reading the service manual, all the re-install instructions say to use new O rings for everything that was taken off. Is this necessary? Obviously it is if the O ring is damaged during disassembly.
A quick question about heat. Regarding the heat required to break loose the bolts on the exhaust, I am assuming that a propane torch will not give me the required temperatures, and that I will need an oxyacetylene torch.
One more thing. Anyone doing any internet searches about leaking oil seals will come across a product called AT-205 re-seal. I am not a fan of snake oil remedies, but wanted to ask the question just the same. I know that treating the plastic and weather stripping in my Honda has kept them like new in the heat and sun of the middle east for 9 years, and am wondering if the polymer formula of AT-205 may rejuvenate the leaking rear main. I have found many testimonials where this product worked, some testimonials where the product didn’t work, but no testimonials where the product caused more harm than good. Any feedback from those with experience with the product would be much appreciated.
Cheers everyone,
Pete
The only ‘o’ ring I can think of back there is for the plate that the rear main seal sits in and you don’t need to remove that to replace the seal so if it’s not leaking leave it alone.
I’ve never used the product you mention so I don’t have any information for you on that.
Here is a video I did on using heat
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPlndTrPK6A
This video will also be helpful as it’s one of the more difficult parts of the job.
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