Rear Drums Knocking/Pulsating

[Justin]

Hello all,

I have a 2000 Eclipse GS with front disc brakes and rear drums. The front Rotors, Brakes and Calipers are all new as well as the Rear Drums and shoes. Not OEM but they are new. Issue I have now is that I can hear the Rear Brakes/Drums knocking when I stop and at speeds above 40MPH they pulsate. They shake the whole car and can feel it in the steering wheel as well. 40-50MPH its minor but above that its get worse. I don’t notice any difference in brake feel or anything and the Wheel cylinders were replaced last year. The car stops no problem but it is annoying and it worries me.
Also, This is the 3rd set of drums that have been put on. again, none were OEM. Could it be cheap parts or something else?
Also, would Machining the rear drums be any help? Would could be the issue?

Topic

[college man]

It sounds like your drums are out of round. Two choices Pick up some quality drums or machine
what you got. more in this link.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations

[Justin]

Even new they could be bad?

[James P Grosso]

Check the rear hub bearings and also the hub runout in case the hub flange is bent. I doubt all 3 sets of drums were bad?

[twiggy]

I had the exact symptoms that you had when I changed the rear drums/shoes on my 2008 Honda Civic. They were new drums but not OEM and this knocking/pulsing was a new problem after the work I just did, so I removed the new drums and put the old Honda OEM original drums back on for troubleshooting purposes.

Also, I had bought non OEM brake shoes online and it turns out they didn’t even fit at all so I ended up buying Honda shoes.

That fixed everything so I said screw it, just left the old OEM drums on and left it alone. Those drums have 198,000 miles on them and they perform great.

[Justin]

[quote=”451Mopar” post=167495]Check the rear hub bearings and also the hub runout in case the hub flange is bent. I doubt all 3 sets of drums were bad?[/quote]

Well, From what my mechanic stated, the Hubs and all are perfectly fine. Also, from what I been told by 3 mechanics, drums are made differently now. At least non OEM ones that are made cheaply. What I may end up doing is just buying new Shoes and Drums from the Mitsubishi online where I can get the OEM parts for cheaper than through the dealer. Dealer wants 114 for drums and online, same part number and from Mitsubishi I can get it for $88 per Drum. $53 per shoe online compared to $69 in dealership.

Unless buying OEM parts online isn’t the best thing?

[James P Grosso]

Could be the aftermarket parts?
I posted earlier about the aftermarket front disc brake hardware on my wifes’ Kia Optima SX not clearing the rotor correctly.
I’m also doing a four wheel drum to four wheel disc conversion on my 1969 Dodge Coronet and running into issues with parts in the kit not fitting correctly, not to mention the instructions are not very good.

[college man]

[quote=”GTRGUY” post=167494]Even new they could be bad?[/quote]

Right out of the box.

[Justin]

Well, After driving the car for a few days and using the brakes pretty firmly, the pulsation seems to be getting better. not as severe as it was. Could be the 15 degree drop in temperature as well but i dont think thats it. Much hotter yesterday and was still better. Maybe they just need to be worn in. FYI, my car has no ABS/anti-lock brakes so. dont know if that makes a difference. Seems to be getting better but will definitely be watching this closely. If it works out and the pulsation goes away on its own, awesome if not then I’ll explore OEM parts which will cost about $400 with labor. We’ll see

[college man]

[quote=”GTRGUY” post=167599]Well, After driving the car for a few days and using the brakes pretty firmly, the pulsation seems to be getting better. not as severe as it was. Could be the 15 degree drop in temperature as well but i dont think thats it. Much hotter yesterday and was still better. Maybe they just need to be worn in. FYI, my car has no ABS/anti-lock brakes so. dont know if that makes a difference. Seems to be getting better but will definitely be watching this closely. If it works out and the pulsation goes away on its own, awesome if not then I’ll explore OEM parts which will cost about $400 with labor. We’ll see[/quote]

Take a look at the shoes to see if there is a wear mark in one spot. If you spin the wheel
by hand you should be able to hear the noise in a certain spot.

[Justin]

I dont know how to take it all apart if your suggesting that, but on one side, passenger rear, you can hear a noise like a scarping noisse when you spin the tire. Its not all that noticeable but it is there. Most of the time the tire stops in the same area but sometime it will not.

[Author]

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