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Sounds like they didn’t get adjusted tight enough, I’d take it back and tell them you’re brake pedal is a little on the soft side and see if they can adjust them up a bit more. This should cure the emergency brake issue as well.
Yeah I’m with Shaun, sounds like they didn’t adjust the shoes enough or at all. Not a big problem and wont take but a few minutes.
Yep, it sounds like you need to go a bit farther with your adjustment as it sounds like your not quite there yet.
Hi Forum,
here is what happend. So I took the car back to shop to talk to mechanic. I told him that brake pedal feels softer and I have to pull emergency brake more to get it work. Before his reply I want to give you more info. Last May I had my rear brakes checked and they told me that its thickness is around 2mm (brand new ones are 4) and may need some attention in the future. And I was hearing some mild squaking sound from back nowadays. So I thought that it is the best time to have them replaced. Anyways, he told me that he had adjusted as far as he could but the main problem was the rust inside the brake drum. I did not understand his explanation since I once checked inside the drums (last year) did not realize a lot of rust except the edge of drum. So I said how it is possible that with a new set of shoes the pedal can be softer than shoes. He kept saying the drum was rusty so he could not adjust more. I said thank you and left the shop. But it still do not make that much sense to me. I can change the drums as well it is not a big deal. But still, how can drums can cause this? Do you think is this possible or make sense to you?
I just want to let you know guys.
Thank you.
Quoted From kurtcephe:
Anyways, he told me that he had adjusted as far as he could but the main problem was the rust inside the brake drum.
He kept saying the drum was rusty so he could not adjust more.
Thank you.It doesnt sound like your mechanic resurfaced your drums. If there is a rusty ridge or lip on the drum, the new shoes could be binding on that area during adjustment. When you use the brakes, the shoes maybe “flex” more before getting a bite of the actual worn surface of the drum. I would think that would make for a different feel on the pedal and ebrake travel.
He should of used a drum micrometer to check the diameter of the drums and see if there within specs or not.
I would be very skeptical of that mechanic from now on.
before you grind the rust off i would spray it down with brake cleaner, it will keep the dust down a bit..and then off course clean it after b4 installing….
Even if you did have a rust ridge it’s not that big of a deal to remove either by machining the drums or by grinding just the ridge off with an angle die grinder. Brake pedal feel has everything to do with the rear brake adjustment, if it’s not adjusted correctly you get the condition you describe. I still recommend you address whatever you have to on the drums to get them to go on and off easily and readjust the rear brakes.
I agree with you guys. They did not let me know about this and they told me that usually they change the drums along with shoes? Why? Anyways, I’ll do it myself I know how to do it (Thanks Eric). I’ll let you know if I stumble on something on the way.
Thank you.
Hi kurtcephe,
Looking on the plus side, the rear drums should be fairly easy to remove. As EricTheCarGuy indicated, a die-grinder works great for removing the lip of rust. I used to use my electric dremmel in the past, before I got air tools. If you do perform the grinding yourself, I would suggest wearing a dust mask in addition to safety glasses. Good luck and keep us posted.
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