Question about properly checking for a bad tie rod

[adam]

Hey guys got somewhat of a dumb question. When I jack up one side of my car and check the tie rod by wiggling the wheel with my hands at 9 & 3 I have no play. However if I jack up both sides of the vehicle and do the same there is some play in the inner tie rod. I beleive I should change the tie rod because it’s bad , however because there was no play with only 1 side jacked up I started to question myself. Any input or experience with this would be greatly appreciated

Topic

[Bret]

are you sure that with both wheels in the air you arent just moving the steering rack itself, but if it moves just the tie rod then replace it i suppose no harm in that just make sure you get a alignment done afterwards

[Lorrin Barth]

I’d suggest removing the wheels so that you can see what actually is moving in the steering linkage. However, with both wheels off of the ground, you will be able to move the rack if the steering column is unlocked.

[kevin gosselin]

If you actually use a lot of force when both wheel are up, you will push the fluid back an forth and you might think for an instance you have a weird play. You should use little force and look for abnormal loose. Being said, if you feel something odd, ask somebody to shake it for you (as long as they feel what you are feeling) and then crawl underneath (make sure it is secure) and look for the movement in the tie rod. The outer are actually easy to call. For the outer, sometime if you put you hand on it you can feel it as your helper would rock it back and forth. You may want also look for bushing on control arm and the balljoint as well….. most pickup require lifting on the control arm to test the balljoint….. otherwise you need to lift the side of the vehicle the same way you would change a tire to have the suspension hanging loose.

k

[adam]

Thanks guys I’ll let u know how it goes I’m changing the knuckle on it this weekend as I have a warped hub, but the bearing is good.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”monkeywrench76″ post=92511]Thanks guys I’ll let u know how it goes I’m changing the knuckle on it this weekend as I have a warped hub, but the bearing is good.[/quote]

Honestly, I’m really confused by your statement above. However, this should help.

Also this.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

[adam]

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=92580][quote=”monkeywrench76″ post=92511]Thanks guys I’ll let u know how it goes I’m changing the knuckle on it this weekend as I have a warped hub, but the bearing is good.[/quote]

Honestly, I’m really confused by your statement above. However, this should help.

Also this.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.[/quote]
Sorry for the confusion please allow me to clarify. I have a car where the rotor was left on to the point where it was so warped that it bent the outer edge of the wheel hub. However there is no movement in the wheel hub in any direction. So I assume the wheel bearing is good. Instead of going through the process of pressing in and out I picked up a knuckle with the hub and bearing assembled. It was when I changed the rotors and pads on the vehicle that I noticed the wheel hub being slightly bent. And at that time is when I had a little movement in the inner tierod. It was after changing the rotors that I jacked one side up to double check for play in the tie rod and there was none. I hope this help to cclarify better my previous statement. Thanks again

[Author]

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