- This topic has 13 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 5 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
I am completely there with you. I have a 85 chevy caprice that I’m converting from an E-quadrajet to megasquirt powered TBI fuel injection. Even with a good deal on used TBI camaro parts (the entire manifold, wiring harness, and E-distributor) I’m into this for a bare minimum of $2000. Want to swap on the used vortec heads I have in my basement, that’s at least $700 IF I don’t have them looked over by the machine shop first. And that’s if I stay TBI, if I swap to a port injection manifold like I want it will be at least $1500. Then people say “why don’t you just ditch the 305 and put a LS 5.3 in for $100?” Well the going rate around here is more $500-$1000, AND all the things I need to bolt it in the car make that swap more like $2000 if I can get a good deal on the engine. I want 300 hp, but getting there is far more of a thing than I thought it would be.
I haven’t had a car project really screw me over on time/money, but it reminds me of my house I bought 2 years ago. Estimated $20k for renovations and it turned into a nightmare. $35k later it was finally finished 6 months after estimated completion dates.
Nice seeing the Fairmont project moving along.
I agree, the little stuff and consumables usually ad up in cost and time.
I hate working on a project and run out of paper towels, brake cleaner, fluids and oils, RTV, loctite, assembly lube, trash bags, and then hardware.
It’s usually the time aspect more than the money.
I bought several of the muti-compartment storage cases to organize bolts, nuts, washers, and other stuff.
For example, One case is just for 1/4″ dia bolts of different lengths. I marked the clear cover with a sharpie with the bolt size and cost (if I bought them.) It makes it easy to locate the bolts and also see which sizes your out of. Having the cost marked reminds me of how much I am donating when giving away the bolts to others.It isn’t even just big projects, I tend to find the same applies with any larger repairs on your own car.
On one of my previous cars, a 1999 Ford Focus mark 1 with the 1.8 TDDi turbo diesel engine, my fuel pump failed (Common failure on the electronic Bosch pumps as fitted to this model). An overhauled Bosch fuel pump was £450 GBP, which is substantial enough, but add in the other bits that you need to replace and soon you’re spending nearly as much again on the little bits – obviously the timing belt has to be replaced, then you’re replacing seals and gaskets, new fuel pipes, nuts and bolts, and add in a hand primer fuel pump because Ford don’t fit one at the factory. In total that one cost me £750-800 in parts, that doesn’t include fuel costs for travelling to go and pick up some of those extra little bits, and doesn’t account for the time spent going for all those little bits.
But these are the joys of motoring, and us car enthusiasts enjoy all of the excitement!
-T
Not just vehicles, I’m a couple hundred dollars into a lawn mower. Yes, a lawn mower – 1978 Toro self-propelled 22″ deck with a 92000 series Briggs & Stratton. Has more dollars in it that it has parts at this point. Fool’s errand for the love of a machine, just like any car – but turf equipment so seldom gets any joy and it fits my budget and my garage.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=168579]Nice seeing the Fairmont project moving along.
I agree, the little stuff and consumables usually ad up in cost and time.
I hate working on a project and run out of paper towels, brake cleaner, fluids and oils, RTV, loctite, assembly lube, trash bags, and then hardware.
It’s usually the time aspect more than the money.
I bought several of the muti-compartment storage cases to organize bolts, nuts, washers, and other stuff.
For example, One case is just for 1/4″ dia bolts of different lengths. I marked the clear cover with a sharpie with the bolt size and cost (if I bought them.) It makes it easy to locate the bolts and also see which sizes your out of. Having the cost marked reminds me of how much I am donating when giving away the bolts to others.[/quote]Good idea.
[quote=”ElthorTheLandStander” post=168651]Not just vehicles, I’m a couple hundred dollars into a lawn mower. Yes, a lawn mower – 1978 Toro self-propelled 22″ deck with a 92000 series Briggs & Stratton. Has more dollars in it that it has parts at this point. Fool’s errand for the love of a machine, just like any car – but turf equipment so seldom gets any joy and it fits my budget and my garage.[/quote]
When it’s love, it’s love.
[quote=”Teribus” post=168614]It isn’t even just big projects, I tend to find the same applies with any larger repairs on your own car.
On one of my previous cars, a 1999 Ford Focus mark 1 with the 1.8 TDDi turbo diesel engine, my fuel pump failed (Common failure on the electronic Bosch pumps as fitted to this model). An overhauled Bosch fuel pump was £450 GBP, which is substantial enough, but add in the other bits that you need to replace and soon you’re spending nearly as much again on the little bits – obviously the timing belt has to be replaced, then you’re replacing seals and gaskets, new fuel pipes, nuts and bolts, and add in a hand primer fuel pump because Ford don’t fit one at the factory. In total that one cost me £750-800 in parts, that doesn’t include fuel costs for travelling to go and pick up some of those extra little bits, and doesn’t account for the time spent going for all those little bits.
But these are the joys of motoring, and us car enthusiasts enjoy all of the excitement!
-T[/quote]Okay, why did you add a hand primer fuel pump? Electric fuel pumps prime just from turning the key part way, before it gets to the starting the car position. When the key is turned far enough for lights and radio comes on, the pump is priming.
Isn’t that the truth, normally I didn’t count these items when doing work and couldn’t work out where the money went. Good ol dad told me “Note everything you spend” and when I did I was shocked how much I spent on the little things. Plus it was also a good way to make sure I didn’t waste any of those bits and bobs.
[quote=”Flintiron” post=168754]Okay, why did you add a hand primer fuel pump? Electric fuel pumps prime just from turning the key part way, before it gets to the starting the car position. When the key is turned far enough for lights and radio comes on, the pump is priming.[/quote]
A lot of Diesel vehicles and machinery, at least the 4wds I know of, are fitted with a hand primer which sits atop the fuel filter. It’s used to bleed air out of the fuel system, preinjector, that may have gotten in by either changing the filter or after a leak was repaired. Some people like to retrofit them to newer vehicles to bleed air out of the system after replacing a filter or after doing work on any part of the fuel system, it also helps to avoid airlocks.
[quote=”Cabcat” post=168866][quote=”Flintiron” post=168754]Okay, why did you add a hand primer fuel pump? Electric fuel pumps prime just from turning the key part way, before it gets to the starting the car position. When the key is turned far enough for lights and radio comes on, the pump is priming.[/quote]
A lot of Diesel vehicles and machinery, at least the 4wds I know of, are fitted with a hand primer which sits atop the fuel filter. It’s used to bleed air out of the fuel system, preinjector, that may have gotten in by either changing the filter or after a leak was repaired. Some people like to retrofit them to newer vehicles to bleed air out of the system after replacing a filter or after doing work on any part of the fuel system, it also helps to avoid airlocks.[/quote]Sounds like logic to it, however, fuel systems aren’t a one way trip. Meaning there is a return line going back to the fuel tank. When I change a fuel filter, I know the next time I start the motor, I turn the key and wait to start it to give the fuel pump time to prime fully. The air will make it’s way through the engine’s system, and cycle back to the fuel tank. The ability to prime a modern engine with the factory fuel pump after a repair was already placed into the design, or they would’ve added the hand primer at the factory. It only takes under a minute to be sure the fuel is primed.
I had a guy try to tell me that I should never change a fuel injector myself because the factory installs them under vacuum to pull fuel up to the injector. However, all the time injectors are installed without that being done by DIY guys, as well as mechanics. Also, I pointed out to him about what happens when someone runs out of fuel, they simply add fuel and fire it up. Only our lawn machines require us to prime by hand, and adjust choke to start them.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.