- This topic has 10 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
I have a Hook and a Power Probe 3. I barely touch the hook because it’s increased functionality is not regularly needed over the Power Probe. I haven’t used a PP4, but I would buy it if my PP3 failed based on my research. I deal with wiring diagnosis pretty regular, and most of the stuff I run into is quickly solved without needing the hook. I should mention I use a Fluke 115 multimeter along with the PP3. If a Hook was all I had, I might be singing it’s praises to the high heavens.
Don’t get me wrong, It’s a great tool that is a PP4 and more. Obviously you already know it’s pretty bulky for a Power Probe, but there is a trick for that that works with all Power Probes that nobody seems to know about. In the accessory lead set you can buy, the shortest extension lead is about 3″. You put that in between your tool body and the probe tip, and you can get it into anywhere without having to even hold the tool. Couple that with the Thexton THX-490 back probes, and you can get into pretty much everything without wiring/connector damage.
Call Powerprobe and ask them the pro’s and con’s. I’ll say this, the hook is not for quick checks but more for diagnosing electrical problems. The 4 is nice but the only feature it has it seems to me is the injector pulse width, but this isn’t 1990 and I don’t see it actually making a difference, especially if you have a scanner. The powerprobe is more compact. I have two coworkers, one has the hood, one has the PPIV. The 4 is a lot more bulky than the III or II. I have a II but it doesn’t read volts. The 4 has the capability to load the circuit, but Hook can operate the circuit.
go with the 4. For what the hook does offer it’s not worth it’s size. The 4 is plenty capable and you’ll be more than happy with it. Do yourself a favor and buy the expanded connector set unless you bought the PP3 master kit which already has all the extra leads.
Well went with the IV and got the PPECT kit also. Very pleased so far, except 1 lil issue. In the 4conector plug(big square 2×2 plug) for the batt clips, is a hidden fuse that until you talk to tech-support you don’t know it is there.
Fuse is molded(UN-replaceable) into this piece shown below.And I beg to differ, but very useful in locating a malfunctioning Fuel injector just look below.
Call me the odd duck, but I never got into powerprobes. I have a pp3 that I bought used, and I may use it a couple of times a year, but otherwise I don’t need it. If you dealt with 12v circuits exclusively, namely lights, then it may be more practical, but that would be it, IMO. The vast majority of what I do, is done with a DVM, scope, amp probe and a couple of leads. Yes the powerprobe can do some of that stuff, but I can do everything the probe does and a lot more. The only benefit I see with the ppIV would be the ability to sniff open circuits. That is intriguing, but that’s the only thing I see it offers. How many ohms can the pp4 load the drivers with on the driver test? Can it tell a good driver waveform from a bad one etc? Can it adequately do load tests of electrical circuits, such as for a fuel pump? I have had to watch more than a couple of techs use them, or misuse them, aimlessly putting power to stuff and grounding stuff, in trying to find a problem. More than a few connectors have had to be repinned due to the powerprobe being rammed into it, even if it was “just the tip” lol. Sorry ladies.
If it works for you guys, great, but are you using it because it is easy, or because you aren’t using your meter to its full potential?
I own pp3. I really like it. pp4 and hook seemed to cost more then it would be worth. I got the fox and hound aka short circuit detector with my pp3. As for people messing up pins that is just people not knowing how to use the tool and not buying the full kit.
The fox and hound works well but, takes time to learn to use but, once you do it can save you from running new harness’ and overlays. It has saved my co-workers 12hrs worth of work already. I have only used it once and it saved me about 4hrs of diag.
The pp3 i have used to do a lot of diag. Sure you can’t send waveforms or read them on it but, i have a scope for that. being able to apply clean power and ground and the fact that it reads both can save a lot of time. Being able to know within seconds if something is shorted to power and how much or ground and how good of a ground cuts diag down a lot. I normally use it and some home made back probes, a piece of wire and a bright bulb and i can voltage drop wires or sets of wires quickly.
I got away without using one for 3 yrs but, after owning one and using it a lot. I do lots of PMs and DOTs so I am always doing a lot of lighting diag. You start to realize it is just faster and having a known good ground and known good power at the flip of a switch along with the secondary known good ground it is just way faster then hooking and unhooking.
As far as waveforms if you have manufacturer scan tools diaging those issues is normally faster and easier with the scan tool over a scope.
As far as waveforms if you have manufacturer scan tools diaging those issues is normally faster and easier with the scan tool over a scope.
Maybe in heavy equipment, but in light duty/automotive, not even close. I’ve used oe tooling, and in limited cases it offered more than my snap on. In most cases it offered the exact same information and tests. In no situation did an oe scan tool offered anything that would tell you more than a scope. All you see with a scan tool is what the control module is telling you. Do you trust the information like it’s from the pope, or a politician? A scope helps you verify what you see. You see the raw signals and can say yes a sensor, or driver is working correctly, or no it’s not. Plenty of situations where the module would not set a code for an issue, but with a scope you can see the issue. Sure, some car makers do not endorse using a scope, and rely on the engineers algorithms to find all faults, as well as swapping “known good parts” to find the issues. Those brands, and their techs have a lot of issues finding hard problems, and when its not under warranty the customer suffers. To put it another way, we had a brand of a particular car maker, a dealer, call us and asked us to take over a problem child they could not figure out, and it’s the make of the brand they sell! If you aren’t using an O scope, you are leaving a lot on the table. Let’s look at another situation. Who here has had a vehicle come in(gasoline) that would sometimes not start, no codes, but when it is in the shop it acts fine? You keep it for days, and no problems. Some would say, throw a fuel pump at it, but can you prove the pump was bad? What if you’re wrong? There is no OE tool that will catch a dead spot in a fuel pump, but a scope will. How about that issue where the customer thinks the engine cranks a little slower than usual, and the battery tests marginal? OE tooling, and powerprobes will do nothing to find the issue. 10 seconds later with the scope, you know the answer. I could go on and on about finding driver faults that control modules can’t detect issues with yet.,
I personally have the PowerProbe 3. I’ve had it for about 10 years or so. I used to install car stereos and alarm systems and remote starters for a living. The powerpobe was invaluable in finding all the correct wires to splice into when installing alarms and remote starters. I could not only test the wire with the probe, but I could even double check by powering the locks or the parking lights to make SURE that I had the correct wires. To this day, its my favorite electrical diagnosing tool. I don’t use it every day for work any more but I do still use it periodically when working on anything electrical on my own vehicles. I used it to verify that my fuel pump was indeed bad. I used it when my window regulators went out. The motors were still good, but the regulators were all jammed up. I used it recently when I helped my neighbor had a problem with his power window.
I checked into the Power probe 4 when it was released, but I saw that there were not quite enough differences between the 3 and the 4 to justify buying a 4. Now the Hook has caught my eye, but I just don’t have the funds for it right now. Maybe one day…Yeah the PP4 is great! I don’t own a hook but have heard complaints of them being bulky and slow (specifically in the auto detect/ranging function). I honestly see no reason for the hook since I can accomplish everything it does with other electrical diagnostic equipment that I already have.
That’s good to know that there’s a fuse in that big bulky connector. I always wondered why it was so bulky. If I ever blew that fuse you better believe I’d cut that connector open and replace it before buying a new one…or bypass it and add an exterior fuse. I hate when manufacturers go out of their way to make things non-serviceable so you have to buy a new one or send it in.
I have the pp4 and its awesome. I have had that big bulky fuse in the connector go bad on me. One day i went to go use it and nothing, checked all the fuses (didnt know the connector was one) and they were good. Contacted power probe and they said to ohm out the connector, did that and it was OL. Called them back and they sent me out a new one free of charge. Didnt take long to recieve either.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.