PO135 and PO498 codes on my 2011 CRV

[Josh Jensen]

Here is my cars info: 2011 Honda CRV 2WD LX

I recently had the CEL come on and I took to the shop and they read these two codes. Said I needed to replace the O2 Sensor in bank one. I replaced that and CEL came back on after clearing the codes. Then I replaced the LAF fuse that powers the O2 Sensor and CEL still came on. Then I replaced the gas cap. CEL still on. I’m super confused and not sure what else I can do to get rid of these codes. Do you have any thoughts or anything else I could do? Appreciate the help so much!

Topic

[college man]

see if this helps. same diagnoses different code. what brand o2 did you use?

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/fuel-and-emissions/560-p0141-diagnosing-o2-sensor-heater-failure-codes

[cj1]

Take a look at bbbind.com for a electrical schematic. There may be a link between the two codes from a common fuse/circuit/relay.
Note fuse 11 A/F sensor relay.

[Andrew Harris]

The Evap vent solenoid and the Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater coil are both feed power through the A/F Sensor relay. Check fuse 11 15Amp for power in the underhood fuse box. If good check the A/F relay.

[Josh Jensen]

[quote=”ArmedsouthernEr” post=173658]The Evap vent solenoid and the Bank 1 Sensor 1 heater coil are both feed power through the A/F Sensor relay. Check fuse 11 15Amp for power in the underhood fuse box. If good check the A/F relay.[/quote]

I used the Denso brand OEM O2 sensor for the CRV.

I did check the A/F Fuse #11 15amp and it was good but I replaced anyway. I have not checked the relay. How would I know if the relay was bad when I check it? Would I have other symptoms in the car if the relay was not good anymore?

Thanks for the help!

[cj1]

If you have no way to measure voltage/resistance then best you can do is substitute known good relay.
If you have no other codes then probably don’t have other symptoms caused by bad relay.

[Andrew Harris]

The short answer to how to test a relay would be to think of it as two parts. 1) The control side consist of a power feed and a control wire that is grounded by the engine control module which energizes the relay (magnitism) which pulls on 2) the switch side which has one side that has battery voltage at all times. when thre relay in energized it moves the switch which sends battery voltage out to the component side. easiest thing to do is find a relay of similar type that isnt absolutly needed to run the engine and swap it with the suspected bad relay and go drive the vehicle and see if your codes return.

[Author]

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