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Parasitic draw, halfway done?

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  • #519767
    yegoryegor
    Participant

      Hello, so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima.

      I bought a new battery, because my old one would not hold its charge, and my car would only start with a jump.

      I did a parasitic draw test on this battery, and got a current reading of .09 Amps, or 90 milliamps.
      I began pulling fuses, and when I pulled the “Bat-10A-room lamp” fuse, the current reading dropped to .01 Amps.

      I wanted to see if the battery held its voltage, and it turns out that from a period of 4 hours, the volts on the battery went from 12.65 to 12.56 volts. I called a mechanic friend and he said that you should expect to see SOME voltage loss over time, but my concern is that .09 volts is too much to lose over 4 hours. is it?

      So my second question is this, was that circuit the problem? if i take the fuse out, and leave it out, the lights inside my car wont work, but will my battery now be fine? this is my 4th battery in the past year and a half, and I really dont want to replace it.

    Viewing 4 replies - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
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    • #519775
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        You are a little high.(not literally)something in that circuit.
        doors closed,no hood light on. check your car when its dark out
        to see if any lights are on.glove box hood light,ect. another thing
        to try is when doing the parasitic draw.disconnect the alternator hot
        wire.see if the draw comes down. Here is the electrical portion for the
        car to help you track down the circuit.

        http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2003/el.pdf

        #519817
        Ruben FloresRuben Flores
        Participant

          Use above link and start troubleshooting at page EL-96 for overall view.

          Use pages EL-97 thur EL-101 for wiring diagrams.

          My guess would be shorted lamp switch for left/right vanity mirror or trunk.

          Great link collage man.

          #519910
          yegoryegor
          Participant

            Yes, thank you very much for the link.

            I dont really know how to read those diagrams, but I will try in the morning.

            I know that with the fuse in, the lamps on the doors work, the light around the key works, and the two lights above the rearview mirror work.

            I will check to see if the big light in the middle works, and if the vanity lights work in the morning.

            #520227
            yegoryegor
            Participant

              So i have a little update.

              I checked to see if any of the lights were staying on with the car off.
              All of the lights that i could check, including the trunk light, glove box light, dome light, and the lights above the rearview mirror. All of these lights turn on when i turn them on, and turn off when the car is off/or i turn them off. And they stay off with the car off as far as i could tell.

              I also checked the car charger, and it also stopped working when i turned the car off.

              However there are a couple of pieces of information i think are interesting.

              1. with the fuse OUT, while driving the car, the “open door” and “open trunk” lights on the dash light up. With the fuse IN, they do not light up while im driving.

              2. with the fuse IN, my power locks work while the key is not in the ignition, and they also work while the key is in on/start position.
              With the fuse OUT, my power locks DO NOT work while the key is not in the ignition, but they still do work with the key in the on/start position.

              Thanks again guys.

              EDIT:
              also, my tachometer sometimes does not work. I do not know if this is related in any way, but i thought i should just throw it out there.

              Sometimes it works, and shows me the RPMs, and sometimes it just stays at “0” the whole time im driving.

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