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It would depend on how the second battery is integrated into the system. Realistically, it shouldn’t matter. As long as the connection at the secondary battery remains the same through the testing.
First thing i would do is leave the batteries alone (don’t unhook that is – just be sure they are fully charged.) and use my DMM to check for voltage drop across the fuses. Set scale to mV and test each fuse. If you get absolute 0.0, then there is no current flowing in that circuit and move on to next fuse. if other than absolute zero at least some current is flowing through that circuit. How much depends on the fuse size and reading you took. Below is link to a chart and directions to guide you. Hope this helps…
Keep the batteries together. The batteries are tied to provide the required amps. The system is still 12 volts.
When doing the draw test remember to also check the IDM (Injector Drive Module) That is the transformer that steps the voltage up to 120v DC to fire the electric side of the injectors.
Two other common sources of draw come from the glow plug relay and the fuel pre heater. Also I believe that the 2000 has a Intake air pre heater that is also know to fail. I’d check the glow plug relay first, I’ll bet you thats it. That would be easy to check also. Just check the plug side of the relay Key Off/Engine Off.
Another problem I typically see on these trucks is when the glow plugs go bad the resistance goes sky high, almost a dead short. What happens is the plugs cycle on and cause a huge drain on the battery. Then you have to crank longer to get the truck to start. Doing this over and over will kill the batteries.
Not saying this is your problem but its something worth mentioning since this problem will rear its head in the colder months when the PCM wants to long cycle the plugs on every start up.[quote=”akice” post=159651]First thing i would do is leave the batteries alone (don’t unhook that is – just be sure they are fully charged.) and use my DMM to check for voltage drop across the fuses. Set scale to mV and test each fuse. If you get absolute 0.0, then there is no current flowing in that circuit and move on to next fuse. if other than absolute zero at least some current is flowing through that circuit. How much depends on the fuse size and reading you took. Below is link to a chart and directions to guide you. Hope this helps…
Find parasitic draw using voltage drop[/quote]
I love this. I’m going to have to try this next time I run into this issue.
To the OP. I’d recommend you try this since you wouldn’t have to disconnect the batteries. Please keep us updated on how it works out for you.
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