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Paint Work & Collision Repiar Questions

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  • #835183
    dropin_bikingdropin_biking
    Participant

      Hello, I would just like to take the time to say hi. I’ve been a member here for a while, but haven’t done much posting.

      I have been working at a high end collision repair facility for over 3 years now, and have become known as a bit of a paint expert, and paint correction guru. I have a knack for wet sanding and polishing, and laying a good clearcoat.

      I have a very in depth over all knowledge of the steps involved in a quality refinish, repair, or restoration.

      I would just like to make this topic in hopes that general questions or any explanations can be posted here in hopes that more people can understand the trade.

      I may not update this thread every day, but if you post any specific topics or questions you would like answers to, I would be glad to answer in length.

      Thanks for your time, and have a wonderful day 🙂

      Here’s just a few snapshots of what goes on throughout the week.

    Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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    • #835186
      dropin_bikingdropin_biking
      Participant

        Common Mistakes and misconceptions:

        Spray cans DO NOT WORK. Spray can primers, spray can clearcoat, any spray can WILL NOT WORK. There are a few exceptions..

        – There are spray cans available that have an activator that you “pop” and mix into the can before you use it. These CAN work, and work much better than cans that do not have that, however they have a shelf life of one or two days after activating. These are called “2k aerosols” “1k aerosols” do not have this mixture.

        When exposing bare metal, SEALER MUST be used…

        – Primer, colour, stone guard, ANY product will not stick to bare metal unless a proper 2k sealing product is applied first.

        – No matter what products or steps you go through, unless sealer is applies to bare metal before bondo, or putty, or fibreglass, or even welding, it will rust

        Paint must be “feathered” when touching up or doing your own repairs…

        The key to a flawless finish comes from ‘feathering’ out the existing paint, and any products you put onto the panel. If you can FEEL any wave or imperfection in the edges of material, you will SEE if after it’s painted. A good rule of thumb is a 1/2″ of each layer when feathering. IE clearcoat, than colour, than sealer, than bare metal. Resulting in what looks like an 8″ bulls eye.

        Clean, clean, clean..

        – Nothing you spray will stick well unless it it properly cleaned with a wax and grease remover. Even gas or acetone can leave residues. Grease is your enemy.

        #839299
        Bien MendozaBien Mendoza
        Participant

          Question,

          So I just lowered my car and instead of rolling the fenders I actually got it shaved instead.

          When I got the car shaved they added some sort of glue clear sealant on the fender to prevent it from rusting and I want to take an extra step of precaution and add plasti dip.

          Do you have any suggestion besides plasti dip? It’s under the fender so I don’t mind as much but I’m aiming for a clear or black color spray/solution.

          Thanks!

          #840715
          Hayden AllenHayden Allen
          Participant

            Do you know of a company that sells factory paint [non-touch-up]?
            BTW i’m looking for (GM)

            • Cyber Metallic Grey – 57U
            • Ashen Metallic Grey – GLJ
            #843392
            Jeremy WinterJeremy Winter
            Participant

              I’ve wanted to try http://www.paintforcars.com for awhile but haven’t had the right project for it yet.

              #852286
              Fernando cunhaFernando cunha
              Participant

                ROFL honestly .
                Aerosols sprays do they last?
                Normally I use black only .
                I use them to paint small molds on car.
                Inner fender, under car, suspension etc.
                Also I used it on rocker cover on my engine full gloss black.
                Also I use it to spray a tracer on my primer before primer gets rubbed.
                Very convenient easy to use.
                So far my engine got it done 5 years ago still looks good.
                Why not use it is cheap no compressor or gun .
                Would I do a full panel no .
                Why not cause you would need a lot of cans.
                Another words you need at least 3 to 4 acrylic coats with spraygun in order to be able to buff panel.
                Aerosol paint is very thin means to achieve 3 to 4 coats you would need 20 cans LOL
                Only 2 types of paint commonly used in aerosol can acrylic and airdry enamel.
                You get etch primer in aerosol spray bare metal.
                And used color on top of it to prevent rust.
                At the end of the day nothing lasts.
                Make sure primer is well shakin and panel is well clean
                Good luck

                #852605
                Sue Anne ReyesSue Anne Reyes
                Participant

                  Ooooh! I ll try out that site! Was looking for something like this. Thank you 🙂

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