P1336 Crank position sensor prob bad how do I replace it?

[Rob]

Our 1997 Civic showed a Check Engine Light. I checked and got a P1336 “Crank position sensor” code. I researched and found that the belts often cut the wire. Mine did but after I exposed the wires, with a multi-meter, where they were cut O still got a OL between the white and blue wires so I need to replace. Do you have a YouTube vid that covers that? I also see a bad lower engine mount. Is it a matter of removing all belts then pulling the pulley? How do I get the pulley off without room for a puller? Can I replace that engine mount while in there?
Any videos or posts that would help would be appreciated. Although it feels like it is out od my skill range I’ve been there many times:whistle:

Thanks!

PS:
The car runs great but the check engine light bothers my wife and taping it over won’t fly. 😆

Topic

[David]

job pays 1.5 hr to replace. from prodemand.
CKF sensor is located next to timing belt drive pulley. Remove splash shield, if necessary. Remove cylinder head cover. Remove accessory drive belts. Remove crankshaft pulley. Remove idler pulley (if necessary). Remove upper timing belt cover and dipstick tube. Remove timing belt lower cover. Disconnect CKF sensor and remove sensor. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure wiring harness is routed to avoid damage. Tighten CKF sensor mounting bolts to 96 INCH lbs. (11 N.m). I recommend having a shop do this.

[Tim Rowe]

Hardest part is getting off the crank pulley. Very strong Impact is your friend. Might as well do timing belt, if it’s been awhile.

[Rob]

Here I am, getting started. I saw that this is often caused by the fan belt cutting the wires. My wife tends to drive over things and has damaged the plastic under the car and pulled that cable. It was fut. I tried splicing the cut wires then found that the sensor was still reading open so I am doing the job now.
My impact is not strong enough to shift it so I will have to do it with the wrench inside and a socket. Found that the engine mount is destroyed too so I got one. When I removed it I could not get the nut off the end so pulled the shaft too. Soaking it but will probably be getting the inner bolt too. Thats as far as I can go until I get another breaker bar and soak that nut loose or get the bolt.

[Tim Rowe]

Need at least 1/2″ drive. I get a jackstand, enough extensions to extend past wheelwell, rest extensions on the jackstand, and get a long cheater. Even better if you can get 3/4″ drive.

[Rob]

OK. Got is off with 1/2″ drive and pipe sections like you said. Wife cranked it right off. Is the replacement of the pulley just the reverse? Torque around 130? Loctite? Now I can install the new sensor.

[Tim Rowe]

It’s 120ft-lbs…somewhere in that neighbirhood. I never use locktite

[Rob]

I got it off and replaced the sensor. I am stalled by another problem though. I also have to replace the badlt worn out lower left motor mount. Easy since I had to remove it anyway to easily get to the sensor. I have a replacement but the pin (?) that connects the motor mount to the block is giving me a problem.The bolt is solidly stuck on to it. I removed the pin from the engine block along with the remains of the mount. I have soaked it for a couple of days with PB and trans fluid and acetone with no luck. I have it in a vise and am using new socket and 1/2″ bar with six foot cheater. I have hammered and all of the other tricks I have learned. I used an impact but not terribly powerful. I am rounding the flats on the nut. I think the pin will break soon. What would you guys do? Oh yes….I need to finish it up tomorrow.

[Tim Rowe]

Are you talking about the mount with one bolt, and one stud with a nut? The nut is stuck? If this is the case, take it to a tire shop…they’ll have a impact that’ll either break it loose, or break it. In which case, go to boneyard and get another.

[Rob]

Thanks. I feared having them break it and I am pretty sure that would happen. We are many hours from a boneyard too so I used a cut off disc and removed the flange nut that way. I swiped one of the flange nuts from the upper engine mount since they were off anyway and used it to install the lower mount. I replaced the upper one with one from a local hardware store and I will order the genuine replacement from online. It will be easier to replace it since it is up top.
I did try to order a full set of proper replacements overnight from Largo Honda in Homestead. They said that they have to order them and they do mot take deposits online. I would have to drive the 4 hours round trip to pay for them and then drive back again when they came in. Nice place eigh! Thanks to you all I have a working car again. I do appreciate the help greatly.

[Author]

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