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Aka everything is wrong and my car hates me.
Car: 2000 lexus es300, 3.0L 1mzfe and 4 speed auto trans.
developing thread on the chans (Will copy paste info as related to here)
http://boards.4chan.org/o/thread/10961249WARNING: MASSIVE WALL OF TEXT INCOMING. I will try to keep it organized but there’s a lot of information and maybe my brain is a bit fried right now. I’ll try to clean it up later, until then please bear with me.
Since I got my car it’s always had a hiccup at idle. After a few thousand miles it got worse and I was blessed with the codes:
p1130 (AFR circuit range performance bank 1 sensor 1)
p1150 (AFR circuit range performance bank 2 sensor 1)
p1135 (heater circuit bank 1 etc etc)
p1155 (heater blahb blah other bank)
P0125 (from googling I found this was caused by the previous offending codes apparently.)Towards the end of this (just the last week or so, I also got the 1133 and 1153 circuit response malfunction, which was kind of scary because it moves things from
>the AFR sensors are giving out of range responses
to
>the AFR sensors aren’t even talking back properlyI finally got the money to buy new OEM replacements and installed them last night. took it out for a drive and everything seemed ok, but it was still hiccuping a little (Not as bad it seemed though) and I wasn’t getting any codes, so I went to bed.
This morning I’ve got the codes shown in the title again. Both AFR sensors are brand new Denso units, and I’ve checked the AFR heater and EFI fuses (no idea how to check the relays nor where the AFR relay is for this car, doesn’t have one in the fuse box, if at all).
Tonight I’m going to try and trace the wires for the sensors (which will be really, really fun I’m sure) and continuity test them but I feel like that’s pointless as I’m getting the exact same codes for both banks which use different sets of wires, right?
MISC INFO:
Also have a MAF in the mail.
pulled the MAF for funzies to see what effect it’d have this time. car idled fine but I made the mistake of pulling it onto the road to see how it felt.
literally no power, I could floor it and got almost no revs. at this point I’m just doing random stuff and don’t know what the results mean but I thought it couldn’t hurt to share.
Also checked the fuses, all of them are fine, didn’t see an AFR relay marked.
I did find some other people with the same problem but none of them seemed to have gotten it fixed.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-and-es330/487472-dumb-2000-lexus-es300-a-f-and-cl-lights-pics.html>it’s even the same colour as mine
Must be a grey issue!Update 1: heater circuit codes are back as well
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Uploading next video.
still no voltage at all in off, acc and on positions with the EFI relay out.
…couldn’t test it with the engine on for obvious reasons, but yeah.
I am not getting continuity on connecting the small plugs on the AFR HTR relay itself, nor the female plugs they go into. Mind you I’m not talking about the grounding video, I just put the terminals in all sorts of configurations to see what had continuity or not lol, if I need to redo some of that let me know.
For fun I switched the AFR HTR relay with the horn one (they had the same pin layout and were both 12v so I figured it was fine), same results (2.45v when acc or ON)
So looking at the diagram, the + to the fuse is controlled by the AFR HTR relay right? And then I’m providing the ground by attaching one of my leads to the battery negative terminal. so it would make sense that I get no voltage when it’s out?
Whatever side is supplying the fuse with power, the other side should be continuity to the A/F Heater relay… At least based upon the simple schematic… One side of the fuse should receive 12v from the battery….
OK…. At an impasse again…. I think we need a better schematic. I believe there is an issue with power to the fuse and that something is definitely amiss in the heated A/F Circuit.
What you can do is follow the diagram I sent earlier and check for power at the ECM, but I don’t think that will help that much…
You can try to trace that A/F fuse power wire back to the battery… Thats about all I can say right now…
Will try to pull up some more resources… and get back with you…
-Karl
To sum this up for the day…
Based upon the diagram, there should be 12v provided by the battery at the fuse… There is not…
The ground is through a resistor in the ECM…. So 12v should be coming through the A/F fuse….
Removing the relays show 0v… so how is 2.45v getting in the circuit? from the ECM? Bad ECM? not sure yet…
Why is there not proper voltage, could be a wiring issue… From the battery supply to the A/F HTR fuse… Will have to trace…
Is the ECM bad… That may be possibly checked by the PDF I attached earlier…
The Heater circuit should work as follows:
The ECM does not control the voltage to fuse, the A/F fuse should receive 12v of power when the key is turned on… The ECM controls the power by a resistor going to ground… The circuit is activated by the EFI relay, which sends voltage to activate the A/F HTR relay and thus allowing voltage to the A/F sensor… then from the A/F sensor to the ECM where it is monitored and by resistance it turns on and off the voltage flow by controlling the ground.
-Karl
righto, I’ve got the fusebox half out along with the battery and am going to try to traceback the power to the fuse.
I’m sure it’ll be easy there’s only like…150 wires in there.
edit: oh didn’t see the larger post you made above. yeah I guess tracing the wire would be one of the first steps, as it’s clearly not getting the power (it should just get it direct from the battery right?) it wants even when we bypass the ECM and give it ground.
[quote=”wonderbread” post=109650]righto, I’ve got the fusebox half out along with the battery and am going to try to traceback the power to the fuse.
I’m sure it’ll be easy there’s only like…150 wires in there.
oh didn’t see the larger post you made above. yeah I guess tracing the wire would be one of the first steps, as it’s clearly not getting the power (it should just get it direct from the battery right?) it wants even when we bypass the ECM and give it ground.[/quote]
You nailed it exact with the last sentence… It should have 12v when we bypassed everything…
What you are doing now is the sucky part… tracing that line… It has to go back to somewhere that provides the 12v from the battery… Hopefully you will see a clue along the way… Something burned or broken perhaps… Not fun… I know….
The other part is how that 2.4v is in the circuit with the fuse out…. I really don’t want it to be an issue with the ECM….
-Karl
So, for sure there’s something wrong with the power to the fuse. then after that there’s maybe something wrong with the ECM somehow sending 2.4v back through where it’s supposed to be giving a ground path.
[quote=”wonderbread” post=109653]So, for sure there’s something wrong with the power to the fuse. then after that there’s maybe something wrong with the ECM somehow sending 2.4v back through where it’s supposed to be giving a ground path.[/quote]
Edit… Let me rephrase it… I don’t know how 2.4v is getting in at the power side with a direct ground… (and the circuit is not complete because the fuse is removed and thus should not rely on the Relay for anything)… And when a relay is removed, it has an effect and drops the voltage to 0v…. The ECM shouldn’t be in the equation…
-Karl
it’s difficult to see and maneuver in the fuse box but I think I see the two wires coming out of the fuse location for the AF HTR. one is a fat wire (8 gauge?) that’s white and the other is a thinner, blue wire.
I stabbed the fat wire with a multi meter prong and checked for continuity, it_is_not_ the wire I was getting 2.4v on. It’s the one on the other side that was always flat 0v
is there a way to tell which one of these is the ground and which is power?
pic related I’m holding out the white wire with the tool
There is not a ground and power on this… so to speak… they are merely connecting the circuit… The fat wire I would bet is going to the A/F HTR relay… you can confirm with continuity…
The other wire, the white and blue may be the wire you are looking for (the one going to 12v battery power)…
You will have to test possibly with continuity to find out and trace since we do not have a schematic which shows the wire colors…
-Karl
fun fun.
so, I’ve got the wire that goes to the relays and to the ECM ultimately then. the other one is the one I was getting 2.4v on, but it was dependent on the relays which makes no sense, so somewhere in there something is seriously blown up and shorted…maybe?
[quote=”wonderbread” post=109665]fun fun.
so, I’ve got the wire that goes to the relays and to the ECM ultimately then. the other one is the one I was getting 2.4v on, but it was dependent on the relays which makes no sense, so somewhere in there something is seriously blown up and shorted…maybe?[/quote]
I can’t say what is going on…. That is where the “fun” comes in… you have to figure out why that is… tracing wires is a huge PITA…
When you had the big electrical arcs, god knows what happened down there… connectors could have melted, wires could have melted together…. Nobody knows till you go though it…
You are grasping this all very well I must say! :cheer:
ty.
I got this pic off alldata, but of course it doesn’t have colour information or more details lol.
Yeah… Alldata is not necessarily the best for electrical schematics… Truly a EWD is what is called for….
What ya need…
Read through this for some fun and to educate yourself on reading Toyota/Lexus Schematics..
-Karl
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