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Aka everything is wrong and my car hates me.
Car: 2000 lexus es300, 3.0L 1mzfe and 4 speed auto trans.
developing thread on the chans (Will copy paste info as related to here)
http://boards.4chan.org/o/thread/10961249WARNING: MASSIVE WALL OF TEXT INCOMING. I will try to keep it organized but there’s a lot of information and maybe my brain is a bit fried right now. I’ll try to clean it up later, until then please bear with me.
Since I got my car it’s always had a hiccup at idle. After a few thousand miles it got worse and I was blessed with the codes:
p1130 (AFR circuit range performance bank 1 sensor 1)
p1150 (AFR circuit range performance bank 2 sensor 1)
p1135 (heater circuit bank 1 etc etc)
p1155 (heater blahb blah other bank)
P0125 (from googling I found this was caused by the previous offending codes apparently.)Towards the end of this (just the last week or so, I also got the 1133 and 1153 circuit response malfunction, which was kind of scary because it moves things from
>the AFR sensors are giving out of range responses
to
>the AFR sensors aren’t even talking back properlyI finally got the money to buy new OEM replacements and installed them last night. took it out for a drive and everything seemed ok, but it was still hiccuping a little (Not as bad it seemed though) and I wasn’t getting any codes, so I went to bed.
This morning I’ve got the codes shown in the title again. Both AFR sensors are brand new Denso units, and I’ve checked the AFR heater and EFI fuses (no idea how to check the relays nor where the AFR relay is for this car, doesn’t have one in the fuse box, if at all).
Tonight I’m going to try and trace the wires for the sensors (which will be really, really fun I’m sure) and continuity test them but I feel like that’s pointless as I’m getting the exact same codes for both banks which use different sets of wires, right?
MISC INFO:
Also have a MAF in the mail.
pulled the MAF for funzies to see what effect it’d have this time. car idled fine but I made the mistake of pulling it onto the road to see how it felt.
literally no power, I could floor it and got almost no revs. at this point I’m just doing random stuff and don’t know what the results mean but I thought it couldn’t hurt to share.
Also checked the fuses, all of them are fine, didn’t see an AFR relay marked.
I did find some other people with the same problem but none of them seemed to have gotten it fixed.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-and-es330/487472-dumb-2000-lexus-es300-a-f-and-cl-lights-pics.html>it’s even the same colour as mine
Must be a grey issue!Update 1: heater circuit codes are back as well
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Well, we didn’t want it to click (it would be our problem)… Confirm when it clicks there is continuity between poles which should send the power to the heater…
Continuity test is a negative, it gives one short beep then silence. Also tried reversing the polarity
Pop the plastic top off (you should be able to get it off with a pocket screwdriver) apply voltage and take a look if it is connecting…. also test for continuity at the other plugs…. I don’t want to dance just yet…. lets hope its worn out or have burned connections…
essentially what a relay does is take a small amount of voltage to close the contacts which allows a stronger electrical current to pass… test the large plugs for continuity… I am not sure of the setup of this relay…
The diagram on the plastic top should show which gets power and which provides the continuity when the relay shuts…
-Karl
OK… That means the relay is good…
We are at a bit of an impasse here now, because I believe you have an electrical problem somewhere in the system….
I have reviewed your readings you sent me and much of it makes very good sense… The system is operating generally in open loop status… note 3.3 for two of the sensors… and your AFR is almost at 14.7…
You can read more here… look under the heating part of it…
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h37.pdf
I believe you have an issue somewhere in the heating circuit… where the ECM is either not sending the signal to turn on the heating element (and I don’t suspect the heating element in brand new Denso O2 sensors…) or the signal is not getting through…
Note this, taken directly… The oxygen sensor heater circuit is monitored by the ECM for proper operation. If a malfunction is detected, the circuit is turned off. When this happens, the oxygen sensor will produce little or no voltage, and possible set DTC P0125.
I don’t believe the issue has anything to do with the ECT now that we have proven it is working… although for your general information 80 degrees centigrade is a default setting….
To best find this problem a schematic should be employed to trace back wiring….
I will continue to think this through and if you come up with something let me know…
-Karl
Thanks for the help so far.
later in the night when I get bored/when it’s cooler I’ll go out and check the voltage on the source plugs for the short pins to make sure the EFI relay in your diagram is activating the relay.
I’ll also see how far I can trace back the wires from the sensors themselves.
also to confirm, I pulled the correct relay right? There wasn’t any one marked “AFR” or anything, just “HTR” next to the fuse for the AFR HTR.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/media/kunena/attachments/22826/1409099947592.jpg
just wanted to make sure I didn’t just test the wrong one.
I didn’t see that before… that may not be the correct relay… check for continuity to the A/F fuse…. hmmm… Look around for the EFI relay…
-Karl
pics uploaded, second one is washed out (thanks flash), but it’s the same as the last one I posted, just with the actual fuse box in the background.
NVM FOUND IT LOL.
there was a separate covered thing marked “RELAYS AND FUSES”. AFR HTR is in there. checking it now, is it safe to use the car battery to test them? I no longer have access to the small 12v I was using before.
I don’t see it… Should be marked A/F HTR
Edit… Good you found it!
Yes, you can use 12v from the battery…. Also these were known to go bad… I think there was a TSB on them…
-Karl
🙁 continuity confirmed.
double checked, and also checked that there’s no continuity when no current is applied to the small poles.
also popped the cover off, it looked brand new in there, whole thing looked mint actually.
I’ve uploaded a photo of the diagram for this new box, should I test any other of these? Already checked fuses (visually and with the continuity checker)
…
so maybe it’s time to share a story I didn’t think could be related till it got traced down to an electrical fault…I got the car ~6000 miles ago. One of the first things I did was replace the two intake hoses because the old ones were cracked. While I was doing this, quite randomly I saw a _very_ large spark come from in and around the battery area, almost look like it arced but I can’t be sure in hindsight. It happened a few times in a second and then stopped, when I inspected the area I didn’t see any damage or even evidence of anything touching the battery. The car was not on during this process obviously, but I hadn’t removed the terminals (I didn’t think it necessary as I wasn’t doing anything related to electronics). car started fine after.
I have no idea what caused it or what it could have done, but I thought I’d share on the off chance it helps diagnosis any.
edit: not letting me upload the file, here’s a imgur link:
the washed out part says “DRL #2” I think.
Battery just did that? Hmmm… OK… this may explain things….
You can pop out the relay boxes and observe the bottoms of them for melting or damage… May want to start around the A/F relay box and also the A/F fuse box…. Also, you can check for continuity between them….
Also there is an off chance that you may have hurt the PCM… That is usually the last thing in diagnosis after all else has failed…
Look, and smell around… But we may have to go back to the schematics if that yields nothing….
Gotta hit the rack now… Good luck and great determination to find this problem… If you keep at it like this, we’ll figure it out soon….
Cheers!
-Karl
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