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Aka everything is wrong and my car hates me.
Car: 2000 lexus es300, 3.0L 1mzfe and 4 speed auto trans.
developing thread on the chans (Will copy paste info as related to here)
http://boards.4chan.org/o/thread/10961249WARNING: MASSIVE WALL OF TEXT INCOMING. I will try to keep it organized but there’s a lot of information and maybe my brain is a bit fried right now. I’ll try to clean it up later, until then please bear with me.
Since I got my car it’s always had a hiccup at idle. After a few thousand miles it got worse and I was blessed with the codes:
p1130 (AFR circuit range performance bank 1 sensor 1)
p1150 (AFR circuit range performance bank 2 sensor 1)
p1135 (heater circuit bank 1 etc etc)
p1155 (heater blahb blah other bank)
P0125 (from googling I found this was caused by the previous offending codes apparently.)Towards the end of this (just the last week or so, I also got the 1133 and 1153 circuit response malfunction, which was kind of scary because it moves things from
>the AFR sensors are giving out of range responses
to
>the AFR sensors aren’t even talking back properlyI finally got the money to buy new OEM replacements and installed them last night. took it out for a drive and everything seemed ok, but it was still hiccuping a little (Not as bad it seemed though) and I wasn’t getting any codes, so I went to bed.
This morning I’ve got the codes shown in the title again. Both AFR sensors are brand new Denso units, and I’ve checked the AFR heater and EFI fuses (no idea how to check the relays nor where the AFR relay is for this car, doesn’t have one in the fuse box, if at all).
Tonight I’m going to try and trace the wires for the sensors (which will be really, really fun I’m sure) and continuity test them but I feel like that’s pointless as I’m getting the exact same codes for both banks which use different sets of wires, right?
MISC INFO:
Also have a MAF in the mail.
pulled the MAF for funzies to see what effect it’d have this time. car idled fine but I made the mistake of pulling it onto the road to see how it felt.
literally no power, I could floor it and got almost no revs. at this point I’m just doing random stuff and don’t know what the results mean but I thought it couldn’t hurt to share.
Also checked the fuses, all of them are fine, didn’t see an AFR relay marked.
I did find some other people with the same problem but none of them seemed to have gotten it fixed.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es300-and-es330/487472-dumb-2000-lexus-es300-a-f-and-cl-lights-pics.html>it’s even the same colour as mine
Must be a grey issue!Update 1: heater circuit codes are back as well
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right-o, good night.
I’ll check every relay, visually and continuity wise, as well as the areas around, as suggested.
I’ll update in the morning.
so I popped them all out, and popped the tops off for inspection. all of them looked fine except for the EFI one which looked kinda burnt, but it still activated with current and continuity was good.
I didn’t look at wiring yet because I’m dreading it.
Actually, I meant to look under the actual relays (where they plug in)… Essentially the large plastic piece that holds them… That could be where damage may be found…
Another couple of thoughts….
Are you getting 12v at the A/F HTR fuse?
Is there continuity between the A/F HTR fuse plug and the AF HTR relay plug?
Also, if you reset the ECM (disconnect neg battery terminal) and turn on the car, is the AF HTR relay getting power… It should be, at least for a short time..
Here is also a little something to help in diagnosis…
-Karl
Some more tests to try to trace out this out…. While simple continuity may not be the best, these are quick tests to find an open…
ok just started to do it then noticed your bigger instructions, I’ll get on that but for now some preliminary results:
I pulled the negative terminal for a few seconds and then put it back, started it up and measured the current at the AF HTR fuse (picture related)…there was none.
There was however continuity when I tested for that.
I’m going to check my multimeter real quick to make sure it’s good then follow the instructions from your diagram(s)
Ok I’m doing this with videos now because why not maybe it’ll help.
I’ll update this post as videos come through.
Sorry check again I’ve made it unlisted instead of private.
1. AFR HTR fuse https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9pCrtCc4f8&list=UUD-TycUCxVYTT0LCUpeB0HQ
2. Continuity test between AFR HTR fuse and AFR HTR relay, several points
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RT5rs_Dp39M&list=UUD-TycUCxVYTT0LCUpeB0HQvideo 3. see post on next page
BTW.. The video is listed as private….
Of concern already is that with the key turned, or the car on, there is no voltage there…. with positive on one side of the terminal and another to a ground or battery ground, there should be voltage…
-Karl
OK saw the vids.. good work… When testing continuity, yes have the car off… We are testing on an unloaded circuit…
Looks like you have confirmed there is good continuity between the A/F Fuse and the A/F relay… so lets check that block as good…
Going back to the A/F fuse… Check this with key on and off… Test for voltage, but put the positive to one side (you will have to figure it out) of the A/F fuse plug and the other to the battery ground… You should see 12v… If not we have an issue with a wire sending 12v to the fuse panel…
Edit, also if it is 12v then we may have to look at the ground…
-Karl
Eh new post for this one.
Video 3: ground test from AFR HTR relay at several points.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLC75jeSNzE&index=1&list=UUD-TycUCxVYTT0LCUpeB0HQvideo 4: voltage at the AFR HTR fuse again (spoiler, nothing when the car is on, 2.45 constant with the key in at ACC (I think) and (for sure) at ON)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JilxQUWeyVw&index=1&list=UUD-TycUCxVYTT0LCUpeB0HQ
Waiting for upload on the voltage… That has my curiousity…
About A/F HTR – the ground should be on one of the smaller plugs… I think you saw that… The other small one should have no ground and no continuity, because it goes to an unopened relay… Only one pin should test with continuity to the negative terminal
The big ones are taking the most juice… hence why they are bigger…
see pic again… we are trying to measure voltage going into the fuse itself and “cheating” in a way by providing a perfect ground… Hence why you should get a 12v only from one side of the A/F fuse plug…
Alight, so given that I’m not getting any voltage when the car is on and only 2.45v when it’s in ON/ACC, something is happening before it can get from the ECM to the fuse (or the ECM is not sending the signal in the first place)?
(assuming that the HTR relay is good, which we tested as good last night, and is getting signal from the EFI relay?)
I’m not good with car electronics apparently lol, but hey as long as you keep giving me instructions on what to test I guess we’ll be fine.
OK… If you tested it the way I asked, then you have an issue with the wire which should provide 12v to the fuse…. make sure the fuse is out when you test it…
To confirm this, do the test again only without the A/F HTR relay in… See if the voltage changes…. it absolutely shouldn’t since the A/F fuse is removed… but just to be 100%
From the schematic… the ECM does not control the voltage to fuse, the A/F fuse should receive 12v of power when the key is turned on… The ECM controls the power by a resistor going to ground… The circuit is activated by the EFI relay, which sends voltage to activate the A/F HTR relay and thus allowing voltage to the A/F sensor… then from the A/F sensor to the ECM where it is monitored and by resistance it turns on and off the voltage flow by controlling the ground.
>K… If you tested it the way I asked
to confirm this, one lead on the positive end of the fuse (I tested both ends just to be sure), one lead on the negative battery terminal (wiggled around to make sure I didn’t have a botched connection).Redid it and uploading, results were no voltage at any state though, off, ACC, ON, car started.
edit, video up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDndvipKlDA&list=UUD-TycUCxVYTT0LCUpeB0HQOK… waiting for the video… that is interesting…
Replace the A/F HTR relay and remove the EFI relay and re-test….
Something is not right… We may have to get a better schematic, but this one should have worked…
No matter what, when the key is turned you should be getting 12v to that fuse… The A/F HTR relay should have had no bearing… So that is odd….
Also, the fact that when you checked the A/F HTR relay, I thought you may have gotten continuity from both the small plugs… which you should not have…
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