Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › P0101 only at WOT and at highway speed
- This topic has 6 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 13 years ago by
EricTheCarGuy.
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- February 16, 2012 at 11:00 am #451577
the car
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- February 16, 2012 at 11:00 am #451578
warm the car up to operating temp.hook up your scan tool to read live data. at idle watch voltage. As you increase engine rpm the voltage should increase
and be steady. also at idle try tapping on the maf connection to see if the voltage changes. if the connections are getting loose inside the tapping will cause
the voltage to change. good luck and keep us posted. C8-)February 16, 2012 at 11:00 am #451579You need a scan tool that can show MAF PID data.
Here are a few examples –
http://www.youtube.com/user/realfixesre … E22Wz1U1JY (probably best example)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QLxxst … THvj3Rd2vX
February 16, 2012 at 11:00 am #451580+1 on the videos dreamer2355, thanks.
I would also check the TPS (throttle position sensor) for proper voltage reading at WOT (wide open throttle). The TPS could have a dead spot that is star
February 16, 2012 at 11:00 am #451581Should have mentioned TPS is new, as is the IAC, for whatever that’s worth. Replaced the TPS for an unrelated problem since the last time this P0101 was thrown.
Thanks for your thoughts guys. I’ve just begun scratching the surface of what you can do with scan tools and live data. Going to check things out next day my car is in the shop (tomorrow or at the latest Monday)
February 16, 2012 at 11:00 am #451582I have a Snap On Vantage Pro in my possession and i may start doing some ‘How To’ on reading scope data, although Scannerdanner’s video’s will be better.
Keep us posted though.
February 18, 2012 at 11:00 am #451583Don’t blindly replace parts without evidence, that is something we call ‘shotgunning’ in the business.
Instead why not start with a power balance test to see if it’s just 1 or more cylinders that are effected.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjEOnce you narrow down a particular cylinder(s) you can then further your diagnosis by finding out if the problem is due to a fuel delivery issue, spark issue, or mechanical issue. Don’t rule out a mechanical issue as I’ve seen many a mechanic run down the path of looking for an electronic cause only to find that it was a mechanical problem all along, in fact if you don’t have codes that indicate an electronic problem I would suggest starting by checking the mechanical condition of the engine with a leak down test for starters just to get it out of the way.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LF … ure=relmfu - AuthorReplies
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