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P0101 only at WOT and at highway speed

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  • #451577
    brakebrake
    Participant

      the car

    Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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    • #451578
      college mancollege man
      Moderator

        warm the car up to operating temp.hook up your scan tool to read live data. at idle watch voltage. As you increase engine rpm the voltage should increase
        and be steady. also at idle try tapping on the maf connection to see if the voltage changes. if the connections are getting loose inside the tapping will cause
        the voltage to change. good luck and keep us posted. C8-)

        #451579
        dreamer2355dreamer2355
        Participant

          You need a scan tool that can show MAF PID data.

          Here are a few examples –

          http://www.youtube.com/user/realfixesre … E22Wz1U1JY (probably best example)

          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QLxxst … THvj3Rd2vX

          #451580
          BigCBigC
          Participant

            +1 on the videos dreamer2355, thanks.

            I would also check the TPS (throttle position sensor) for proper voltage reading at WOT (wide open throttle). The TPS could have a dead spot that is star

            #451581
            brakebrake
            Participant

              Should have mentioned TPS is new, as is the IAC, for whatever that’s worth. Replaced the TPS for an unrelated problem since the last time this P0101 was thrown.

              Thanks for your thoughts guys. I’ve just begun scratching the surface of what you can do with scan tools and live data. Going to check things out next day my car is in the shop (tomorrow or at the latest Monday)

              #451582
              dreamer2355dreamer2355
              Participant

                I have a Snap On Vantage Pro in my possession and i may start doing some ‘How To’ on reading scope data, although Scannerdanner’s video’s will be better.

                Keep us posted though.

                #451583
                EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                Keymaster

                  Don’t blindly replace parts without evidence, that is something we call ‘shotgunning’ in the business.

                  Instead why not start with a power balance test to see if it’s just 1 or more cylinders that are effected.
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE

                  Once you narrow down a particular cylinder(s) you can then further your diagnosis by finding out if the problem is due to a fuel delivery issue, spark issue, or mechanical issue. Don’t rule out a mechanical issue as I’ve seen many a mechanic run down the path of looking for an electronic cause only to find that it was a mechanical problem all along, in fact if you don’t have codes that indicate an electronic problem I would suggest starting by checking the mechanical condition of the engine with a leak down test for starters just to get it out of the way.
                  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LF … ure=relmfu

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