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Oxygen Sensor Problem

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  • #866456
    terryterry
    Participant

      Greetings and salutations everyone. I’m back with a new problem. Over a month ago, i got a code P0140, which is the O2 sensor2, in my 2006 Kia Rio. I replaced it and the engine warning light disappeared. Yesterday, warning light illuminated again and showing P0140 again. The sensor i am talking about is the one that is under the car and near the catalytic converter. Am i looking at a wiring problem here or loose plug or something else? My gas mileage seems fine and no other symptoms noticed. Please help a NOOB DIY mechanic. Thanks in advance.

    Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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    • #866457
      Caleb StovallCaleb Stovall
      Participant

        The one after your converter.
        A P0140 is no signal from the sensor at all, so either the new sensor is bad, the connector is gummed up, or you have a wireing issue.

        #866458
        terryterry
        Participant

          You are right, No Activity Detected. If i change the wiring and the plug. Is it simple to pull out? From the sensor itself, where does the wire lead?

          #866468
          MikeMike
          Participant

            The very first thing I would check is the fuses for the oxygen sensors. There are 2 of them. 1 in the underhood fuse box and the other in the passenger compartment by your leg. IDK which is for the rear o2 sensor, so check both unless you have a manual detailing which is which. They are each labeled SENSOR

            #866473
            terryterry
            Participant

              Sensor fuses checked. Both of them look good. Do i go to wiring next?

              #866474
              MikeMike
              Participant

                Yes,
                It could be a faulty replacement sensor too.
                There’s a how to on checking the wiring here http://www.justanswer.com/kia/7kip7-kia-rio-lx-2006-kia-rio-showing-mil.html

                #866477
                terryterry
                Participant

                  Few questions….
                  1. Do i check the Sensor with voltmeter too for refund or exhange?
                  2. Can i just replace both end of the connector?
                  3. If the wire itself is the culprit, is it replaceable, isnt it bunch up with other wirings too?
                  4. Where is other end of the wiring lead to (fuse box, battery…etc.)?

                  #866480
                  MikeMike
                  Participant

                    The link I provided has tests for the connector, the wiring and the sensor itself.
                    If you read the link, you’ll see that there is a resistance test using the ohms testing part of your digital multimeter.
                    That’s the only test needed on the sensor itself.
                    The linked page walks you through each step.
                    Note that the tech there says to only use Denso sensors, as his experience with Bosch sensors was reported as too many being bad.

                    #866482
                    RobRob
                    Participant

                      [quote=”terryf” post=173854]Few questions….
                      1. Do i check the Sensor with voltmeter too for refund or exhange?
                      2. Can i just replace both end of the connector?
                      3. If the wire itself is the culprit, is it replaceable, isnt it bunch up with other wirings too?
                      4. Where is other end of the wiring lead to (fuse box, battery…etc.)?[/quote]

                      1. Do i check the Sensor with voltmeter too for refund or exhange?
                      I dont under stand the question??

                      2. Can i just replace both end of the connector?
                      the wireing should be going to the computer along with a bunch of other wires

                      3. If the wire itself is the culprit, is it replaceable, isnt it bunch up with other wirings too?
                      you can if you want to but I woiuld first make sure its good or bad

                      4. Where is other end of the wiring lead to (fuse box, battery…etc.)
                      prity much answerd it in #2

                      #866537
                      terryterry
                      Participant

                        I drove the car to work this morning. The warning light was on. In the afternoon after starting the engine, no more warning light. What does that mean? Should i just wait until the light pop up again?

                        #866542
                        Ole EggersOle Eggers
                        Participant

                          O2 sensors gets a lot of blame, even from the ECU. But when you think about it, it´s the last piece in the foodchain. Basically everything that goes on in an engine happens before. If you have a vacuum leak, who gets the blame when the ECU can´t figure out the proper mixture ? Right… the O2 sensor.

                          If you have changed the O2 sensor, measured out the circuit for the sensor, if the fault still shows up, it´s not the O2 sensor. It just takes the blame. You need to examine basically everything that happens BEFORE the O2 sensor.

                          #866586
                          Caleb StovallCaleb Stovall
                          Participant

                            The ECU is claiming it isn’t reading any information from the O2 though.

                            #866598
                            terryterry
                            Participant

                              Crazed sounds right because the code is saying Inactivity. If its something else, it should be a different code but im not sure. Also i forgot to mention, before the 2nd incident happened, i put 1 bottle of Lukas injector cleaner in my full tank. Does it trigger warning light temporarily hence there is no more warning light at this time? It went away by itself.

                              #866603
                              Caleb StovallCaleb Stovall
                              Participant

                                A wireing problem could very well be intermittent, now that it is off you could try to climb under the car and wiggle the wire around and see if it throws the light back on.
                                This is because if the wire is broken just a little and moved the right way to make connection again or is could be grounding in the frame and then moved off of it.

                                I’ve never seen someone throw an 02 light with Lukas but theoretically it could change how the gasoline burns hence throwing a lean / rich code.

                                #866608
                                RobRob
                                Participant

                                  [quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=173980]A wireing problem could very well be intermittent, now that it is off you could try to climb under the car and wiggle the wire around and see if it throws the light back on.
                                  This is because if the wire is broken just a little and moved the right way to make connection again or is could be grounding in the frame and then moved off of it.

                                  I’ve never seen someone throw an 02 light with Lukas but theoretically it could change how the gasoline burns hence throwing a lean / rich code.[/quote]

                                  FYI trying to wiggle the wires might not kick the check engine light…. car might have to be at operating tempture before it ask for data from the o2… so it might not even be looking at it… if you have a scan tool that has live data that might work… but I would probly back probe it and see if your seeing some signal… that will not tell you if the o2 is good or bad but can give you an idea… even with an o-scope you cant tell if its good or bad you have to connect an scan tool to check it…. but if its not reading data at all then your should be able to see it not showing it….
                                  FYI… if you have never pulled a o2 off… run the car get it hot turn it off and use a specail socket to remove it…. you also might need a popan touch too… the specal sock can be rented at most auto part stores…
                                  if its not reading from both bank 1 and 2 then you probly have a wireing issue but make sure you have scanner tool config correctly and you have 2 o2’s in the car… o2’s are uselly like $25 or so,,, not to bad and sorta easy to replace… just handle them with care they brake easyly
                                  FYI put some anti seize on the treads when installing it, just dont get any on the tip

                                  #867603
                                  terryterry
                                  Participant

                                    It is fixed for now. The CEL disappeared by itself. I am suspecting the Lukas injector cleaner. I just keep filling up my fuel tank to reduce the concentration of Lukas.

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