Overheating Problem Needs Solved. Please Help!

[Jennifer]

I have a 2005 Dodge Durango that has about 85,000 miles on it. The temperature gauge on the dashboard should always be in the middle, however when I drive for about 10 minutes or so it will start to go up higher and higher until it reaches the H (hot) at the top of the gauge after about 15 to 20 minutes or so. Normally I have been pulling over and letting it cool a long time before it gets to the H (hot) so that it doesn’t get too hot. But one time (just to see what would happen) I let it go ALMOST to the H at the top, then pulled over, popped the hood and looked to see what I could see. Yep, definitely overheating (not just a crazy temp. gauge). It was very HOT.
So now I’m off to try and figure out what it is. I checked for debris, plastic bags, etc. and found none. I don’t see any coolant leaking anywhere, I bled the system by opening the bleeder valve and letting all the air out, water pump is good, fan clutch is good and thermostat was good. There is no water or milky stuff in my oil. There is no water or white smoke coming from my tailpipe.

I don’t know what else to do. Could it be a fuse or relay? If you think that it could be then is there a simple test I can do to check them without having to have an Ohm meter or DVOM???

Any other ideas?? I am baffled!! Thanks to all in advance!

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[Johnny K.]

my two cents. the whole blowing through the radiator is a viable test..just to give that guy credit. if all holes are “sealed” other then the inlet and outlet, it is technically a sealed system, when you blow into the inlet, the air coming out of the outlet is not that same air leaving your mouth, but the volume of air inside the radiator simply moving over and pushing out to make room for the new air. I have done a fair share of these crude “air” tests and have even pressure tested a repaired aluiminum radiator with an aircompressor, my hands and garden hose. its not rocket science, but it is science. either way the problem is solved and I’m glad for that. but I am slightly saddened that nobody thought to have them check the hoses and clamps and belt first. as you can visually inspect these things with 0 dollars and 0 tools and 0 time at a garage. most lower radiator hoses have springs in them or have a type of braiding in them, but I have seen a lower radiator hose collapse at higher rpm and cause cooling problems only at higher rpms or workloads. and loose or damaged hose ends can leak air into the system sometimes through the vacume caused by the flow of coolant, and not leak coolant under pressure. again the volume thing, would force coolant into the catch can and possibly out an overflow and out of the system (would not do it at low rpm or idle) leaving the system low on fluid with a “where is it going” syndrom and and overheat problem. obviously not the case here. but I thought it would be worth a mention.

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