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ok so I just replaced my cooling fan switch in my 1992 Honda accord LX 5 speed. My cooling fans still do not turn on. So I hard wired them with a toggle switch and now the fans work. But my car still overheats. It does not make it to the red but it gets damn close. When I turn on the heater in which my heater does not work the car cools down as long as I am moving. Is it possible that my ect is just sending a misreading of temp. I have not had the car start smoking or anything. I also replaced my thermostat. Also the level of fluid in my radiator, when the car is off should I be able to see the antifreeze if I take off the radiator cap?
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have you tried bleeding the cooling system? have you done a pressure test? checked the water pump? it’s where I’d start
see if this helps.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
How old is timing belt? As what also happens when you are “moving” is your water pump spins faster. And it’s propelled by timing belt. So, if your T-belt tensioner is old, T-belt a bit stretched, pump has less whoomp to it.
2nd cause can be – exhaust leak into coolant.
3rd cause – inefficient cooling system as a whole. Calcium deposits, reducing efficientcy.
4th – partially clogged radiator.
5th – old and worn out coolant itself.When you remove the radiator cap the coolant should be right up to the cap. If it isn’t the cooling system is not staying full. The cooling system not being full, besides leaking, can be caused by three things: The level of coolant in the reservoir is low, the hose(s) between the radiator and reservoir are old and not sealing and a bad radiator cap.
When the cooling system is not full the coolant temperature gauge can do some odd things. Since it is high in the cooling system it may become surrounded by an air pocket and read normal when the engine is actually hot or it can read hot when the engine is at normal temperature. Often times it will fluctuate between hot and normal.
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