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Hey guys. I have a 1995 Eagle Talon (2.0 Esi non-turbo) that when idling it overheats.
When I get up to speed, usually 40+ mph, the temp will SLOWLY return to a somewhat normal level.
But as soon as I slow down it rises to the point of almost being scary.
Also, I have to add anywhere from 1 quart to 2 quarts of water even after the shortest drives. Work is only 8 miles away!
There doesn’t appear to be any obvious leaks, like from under the water pump or hoses. But the overflow tank “bubbles” with the excessive hot water from the engine.I purchased this vehicle about a year ago and had receipts for: water pump, timing belt, radiator and other sundry items (hoses, etc.) I contacted the original shop that did the work, but of course since ownership has changed, they won’t cover any warranties. Go figure.
It has only been doing the overheating thing about the last 3 months.
My question is: Could this be a faulty water pump? A head gasket?
I have replaced the thermostat already.
There are other performance issues with it, but those can wait until I resolve this overheating problem. Especially with the HOT days of summer approaching.Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
PS, Love your channel Eric.
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[quote=”wysetech” post=64987]You say the fans cycle 3 times and then stop,and then it overheats. The fans should cycle for ever. Maybe a bad fan coolant sensor or something in that circuit.[/quote]
No. The fan cycles fine. There is no limit to the number of times it cycles.
[quote=”thisisbuod” post=64944]A water pump is not going to intermittently make noise. Try going to a local parts store and have them hook up a scan tool to the car. With it running, see what the scan tool says the coolant temp is. This will tell you if it’s just a bad thermostat switch. You said the fans run, but the fans may not be running at the correct time. Also the fans will automatically switch on when you have the air conditioning on.[/quote]
The water pump made “loud” noises (squealing; not a belt squeal) for about a week. I have recently paid more attention to the noises and it appears it is still squealing, just not as loud.
Also, it was louder when the engine is first fired up and then decreased in volume as the car warms up.Here’s an update:
I have not had the time to invest in fully trouble shooting the problem. I did have the cooling system pressure tested at a local garage and it is fine. It held 14PSI for more than 3 hours.I may put this on the back burner for awhile since I’m looking at another car. My sister is selling me her 01 Saab 9-5. Can’t beat the price or the payment schedule. LOL ($1500.00 @ $100/month)
I’ve done some research on the Saab and I know it has some “history” of repairs and maintenance. My sister has had the exhaust replaced (front to back), full ignition pack (coils, wires, etc.), new head gasket and valve job (due to her daughter running it out of oil AND water).
My plan is to take this “working” car and then concentrate on the Talon.
I may even just flip the Saab after getting the Talon up and running better, or vice versa.Thanks to everyone for their tips and knowledge. Once I resolve the overheating issue I will definitely let you all know.
– Mike
[quote=”djsylentmystyk” post=64834]After you replaced the Thermostat, did you bleed the cooling system? Back before some of my cooling issues started, this was my problem. That situation mirrored yours to a “T”.
How to bleed:
at 2k rpms, allow vehicle to run for 30 minutes with the pressure cap off. There is a video of how to bleed on this site.[/quote]I tried that, but as the temperature rose the water was gushing out of the thermostat housing like Old Faithful. Spewing water all over the engine. Which was washing down over the belts and pulleys causing all sorts of noises and such. At that point I stopped thinking that the water is not circulating properly and just boiling over in a drastic manner. :ohmy:
July 27 follow up.
OK. I have done the following all to no avail. I am really stumped here.
1) Due to other issues, I have changed the IAC and MAP sensors. New spark plugs and wires. (It was running rough. Actually, it still is. Another thread maybe.)
2) I purchased the overflow/bleeder kit which arrived this past Wednesday. I flushed the system since I was using well water (full of iron) twice. After flushing I filled the system with distilled water and bled the system. (I did this so I could see what to expect during the final process.)
3) After 3 flushes of the cooling system I proceeded with filling it with a 50/50 premix. I allowed for all the bubbles to disappear. I topped off the overflow tank and took it for a test drive. This seemed to have fixed the problem.However … 2 days later it is doing the same thing. I thought maybe I didn’t get all of the air out of the system and did the bleeder process again. On the same test drive (about a 10 mile round trip) it began to overheat once again.
So this morning I allowed the car to run for almost an hour with the bleeder kit in place. Near the end, the coolant system would “over react” by spewing coolant out of the bleeder funnel like Mt. Vesuvius.
It did this numerous times. Yet the temp gauge was in the normal range.
(I have to add here that the secondary A/C fan is bad. It does not spin up at all unless I beat on it. A replacement has been ordered and should be here in a couple of days.)For now I will continue to keep myself limited to short trips (to work and back) and keep the overflow funnel in the car with me. Once the replacement fan has arrived I will install it and re-bleed the system once again.
I will endeavor to get some video of that Mt. Vesuvius action later today. I just got back from an errand that was about 30 miles round trip and it has overheated and cooling off outside. Of course I will bleed it again but I’ll get some video of what I’m referring to.
I am at my wits end with this thing. LOL
So stay tuned! Thanks to everyone who’s been guiding me in all of this.
A quick update for you thisisbud: I did a compression test on all cylinders and they are between 148 and 153 pounds. The cooling system has been pressure tested and tests fine.
A new radiator cap was also installed.
Read my follow up on what I did recently. It still overheats though.BTW … the noise I kept hearing, albeit intermittently, turns out to be the alternator.
It’s more consistent now. 🙁
Mo money, mo moneyHere are my thoughts. You mentioned it ran good for two days after the flush and bleed.
Now the second fan does not move….
You could have fixed your problem, and what you are getting now may be a result of that fan being bad….
-Karl
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=68156]Here are my thoughts. You mentioned it ran good for two days after the flush and bleed.
Now the second fan does not move….
You could have fixed your problem, and what you are getting now may be a result of that fan being bad….
-Karl[/quote]
That’s what I’m hoping for Karl.
For now I’ll deal with the refills every time I have to go anywhere. What the hell, I’ve been doing that for over a month already. LOLI really didn’t want a project car, but it seems I’ve got one. 🙂
Here’s a 3 minute video of bleeding the cooling system. I didn’t upload the entire thing.
But these 3 minutes show you what I’m talking about when it gets up to temp and really starts getting hot.
YouTube videoIt also looks like I’m going to have to flush the system again. The coolant really looks dirty.
Trying something different:
www dot youtube dot com/watch?v=aZ1AMsfQ0Fw
Copy that and put dots where they belong 🙂
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