Overheating issues

[Michael Fenimore]

Hey guys. I have a 1995 Eagle Talon (2.0 Esi non-turbo) that when idling it overheats.
When I get up to speed, usually 40+ mph, the temp will SLOWLY return to a somewhat normal level.
But as soon as I slow down it rises to the point of almost being scary.
Also, I have to add anywhere from 1 quart to 2 quarts of water even after the shortest drives. Work is only 8 miles away!
There doesn’t appear to be any obvious leaks, like from under the water pump or hoses. But the overflow tank “bubbles” with the excessive hot water from the engine.

I purchased this vehicle about a year ago and had receipts for: water pump, timing belt, radiator and other sundry items (hoses, etc.) I contacted the original shop that did the work, but of course since ownership has changed, they won’t cover any warranties. Go figure.

It has only been doing the overheating thing about the last 3 months.
My question is: Could this be a faulty water pump? A head gasket?
I have replaced the thermostat already.
There are other performance issues with it, but those can wait until I resolve this overheating problem. Especially with the HOT days of summer approaching.

Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

PS, Love your channel Eric.

Topic

[dollman0]

If there is bubbles in the coolant tank, it sounds like combustion gas is entering the cooling system. Check your tailpipe to see if water is washing the soot clean. Get your hands on some block test fluid and the tester to check the radiator for combustion gas.

I would think you are having a head/gasket problem.

Its also possible the impeller in the water pump may be damaged or broken. Does the heater work? I ask because that will tell you if water is circulating. A bad radiator cap can also contribute to a loss of coolant.

[Michael Fenimore]

Hey dollman, thanks for the prompt reply.

The bubbles I refer to are the coolant system overflowing (boiling) into the reserve/overflow canister that is connected at the top of the thermostat housing via a small hose.

I’ve looked at the tailpipe and there isn’t any indication of water or water vapor. That’s why I’m leaning toward the pump as being the culprit.
The radiator cap was replaced about a month ago, the thermostat about 2 weeks ago.

One other indicator is while idling, or close to it anyway (issues!) the water appears to flow, but almost at a trickle. When the engine is revved up higher, the water “shoots” out of the thermostat (radiator cap) housing like a gusher.

What has me perplexed is the pressure that is apparently achieved when the engine is revved up over 2000 rpm. Resulting in the gusher/geyser. lol

I will also check on the block testing fluid and tester this coming weekend, since it’s payday and the only real time I have to work on it.

Also, I’ve checked the oil for any water; there doesn’t appear to be any. And I’ve looked at the water in the coolant system for any traces of oil, but again, there doesn’t appear to be any.

Good thing I’m almost bald or I’d be pulling my hair out by the roots right now. 🙂

Thanks again for the info and ideas.

[college man]

see if this helps.

[Daniel]

Double check that your fans are turning on. If they are, I would recommend a cooling system pressure test.

[Michael Fenimore]

Yeah, they’re turning on too.
When it’s at normal temp, when it reaches that threshold the fans turn on. Run for a minute or so, then off again.
But once it has cycled like that 2 or 3 times, that’s when the constant upward movement in temp occurs, which can be avoided as long as I drive 45mph+ or keep idle up around 2500-3000 at a light.

You’re referring to pressurizing the cooling system with air, right?
It’s been a very long time since I have done this. But if memory serves, pressure should hold somewhere around 12-20 psi without a drastic drop in pressure (head gasket). But if it is a very slow depressurization that’s normal?

That’s on my check list too. But I don’t have the tool. I see Harbor Freight has one for $69. Bit off the mark for me this pay period lol. Plus it’s a garage grade kit.
I have a friend that has a friend (lol) that runs a small shop just down the road. I’ll run it past him this weekend and see if he can do it.

Thanks @thisisbuod

[Bill]

Your problem could be caused by several things including a partially
plugged radiator,loose/missing fins in the rad core and possibly a worn out radiator cap.

You might have it tested for HC/Co in the cooling system to rule out a leaking head gasket.

[Daniel]

A combustion chamber pressure test would be more appropriate to diagnose a bad head gasket. The cooling system pressure test will reveal any coolant leaks. A coolant leak (even a small one) will allow pressure to bleed out of the cooling system. The result would lower boiling temp of coolant. You are correct about the test procedure. You may want to start by just replacing the radiator cap. Even if it looks fine, the spring may no longer have the correct tension, and the gasket may not be sealing properly. It would be a simple and inexpensive part to start with.

[Michael Fenimore]

Thanks for all the info and tips guys.
I’ll see if I can’t get to all of these this weekend and will let you know what I find.
I’m leaning toward the water pump more and more and NOT looking forward to that job. :sick:

[dollman0]

Looking back at all your receipts, your car had a overheat problem before; new radiator, water pump etc. I just wonder if it is a common problem with that model car or it is just a cheap water pump that failed.

It does sound like a circulation problem because the water boils out of the engine and is not flowing through the radiator if I understand the problem correctly. There is also a concern that it was working fine until the weather turned warm, that’s what is kinda puzzling.

I am working on a Mercedes and a cooling problem cracked the head. On some forums the other guys said not to use a cheap water pump to avoid a costly failure. Just something to consider.

Take care

[Michael Fenimore]

The repairs were done prior to my purchasing it.
I believe the radiator was the original problem, but because of the mileage at the time, it was suggested the water pump and timing belt be changed as well. But I cannot be 100% certain about it.

And knowing the reputation of the repair shop it would not surprise me at all if they used the cheapest water pump available to them.

Thanks dollman0

[Daniel]

The cooling system is alot more stressed in the warm weather. If it is a bad water pump usually You would hear noise coming from it or there would be some kind of leak (hence the need for a pressure test.) Good luck.

[mike]

After you replaced the Thermostat, did you bleed the cooling system? Back before some of my cooling issues started, this was my problem. That situation mirrored yours to a “T”.
How to bleed:
at 2k rpms, allow vehicle to run for 30 minutes with the pressure cap off. There is a video of how to bleed on this site.

[Michael Fenimore]

The quick answer is no, I didn’t bleed the system.
The problem is; if I rev up to around 2k with the cap off, water shoots out like a geyser.

It was asked if there were any noises from the water pump and I would have to say yes. But they were short lived. (Three or four times in a month.)

But it has stopped making noise. So I’m still leaning toward changing the water pump. But since this is the “main” go-to vehicle in the house it will be a few days before I can attempt a replacement.

Thanks for the info DJ.

[Daniel]

A water pump is not going to intermittently make noise. Try going to a local parts store and have them hook up a scan tool to the car. With it running, see what the scan tool says the coolant temp is. This will tell you if it’s just a bad thermostat switch. You said the fans run, but the fans may not be running at the correct time. Also the fans will automatically switch on when you have the air conditioning on.

[Bill]

You say the fans cycle 3 times and then stop,and then it overheats. The fans should cycle for ever. Maybe a bad fan coolant sensor or something in that circuit.

[Author]

Replies