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So, I was going to clean my intake manifold on my 1995 Integra and in the process I had to drain the cooling system. Well, after I got done and put everything back together, I flushed the cooling system and put fresh coolant in with distilled water 50/50. Drove it around and saw that it started to overheat. I noticed the radiator fans would not kick on. I did another flush, I even filled the system up with just water and the thermostat out and ran the engine to get all the antifreeze out. Flushed it again. I tested the thermo in a pot of boiling water, it was fine. I put it back in, refilled the system making sure that I opened the air bleeder, then ran the engine to operating temp and squeezed the hose. Still overheating, fans won’t kick on. I checked the fuses and switched the relays, they’re fine. The fans only turn on with the AC. Another observation is the upper hose is hot, lower hose it cool. I checked the ECT switch with a paper clip, it’s fine. I know the temp sensor it good. I didn’t have these problems before this whole operation. I have no idea where else to look. I’d really love any information. Thanks.
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The bleeder would never stop doing this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PjdTldTLvQ&feature=youtu.be
The bleeder screw just help you fill coolant faster, properly purging out the system, you have to use a spill free funnel, there’s no way around it.
I’m pretty sure that is not true. Out of most of the videos I have seen, only 2 of those have used those funnels.
[quote=”Dylonious94″ post=115136]I’m pretty sure that is not true. Out of most of the videos I have seen, only 2 of those have used those funnels.[/quote]
Strictly speaking, no it isn’t the only way to go. There are other ways to burp the system. But the special funnel, certainly makes it much easier. And because the car could take awhile to stop bubbling, it increases the chances of success. You’ll be less likely to just “call it good ” if you’re not holding a upside down two liter pop bottle for twenty minutes.
I just use a regular funnel. But if the bleeder was just to fill coolant faster, I’m sure there is physics behind it not filling up fast to begin and that being air in the system.
As some have pointed out, you’re not purging the air correctly. You don’t need the spill free funnel, but it helps. Also, bleeder valves are there to make filling the system easier, not for purging the air. You need to perform this procedure in order to purge the air properly.
More information on overheats and how to solve issues like this here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
Ok, so I would have to drain the system again to fix it? I went through the same procedure with a regular funnel. I’ve read everywhere to open the radiator cap and run the engine and that would, supposedly, get rid of the air bubbles instead of draining it and refilling again.
No, you don’t have to drain the system again. As the video shows it’s a bit more involved than that. You also need to make sure you position the heater controls as shown in the video. If not, air will still remain trapped in the heater core. Also, you need to verify that the air has been purged and also verify the operation of the cooling fans. Failure to do so may leave air trapped in the system.
As it says in the article I posted for you, air in the cooling system is the most common cause of overheats, especially after cooling system service. That’s why I recommend that after EVERY cooling system service the cooling system be purged of air to prevent issues.
The description of your problem mimics the classic symptoms of air in the cooling system, and given that you’ve done a bunch of work on your cooling system, it’s only logical that your problems may be caused by that trapped air.
Alrighty. I did get me one of those funnels. I’m hoping it will do the trick. Your the man Eric. Thanks.
Well, I finally got the funnel. Filled the cooling system up using it and the bleeder valve. I close the valve when a smooth stream came out of it. And I started the car and saw a ton of bubbles come out of the system. I rev-ed the engine for a few minutes, squeezed the hose. The fans never came on. I checked the gauge and seemed to keep it pretty cool. I didn’t think it got hot enough for the fans. Then I put the radiator cap back on and took it for a spin. It was already to operating temp when I drove it, the gauge was pretty good for most of the drive around the neighborhood, then out of nowhere, it jumped up. Not gradually, but really sudden.
Almost there, it sounds like. You’ll just have to be patient, let it idle a bit longer. If no permanent damage has been done by the overheating, then you’re just a few bubbles away from success. Just elevate the front end, turn the heater all the way to red, and top that thing off. Don’t be afraid to let it idle for ten, even fifteen minutes if you have too. This thing will be done. And we’ll be ready for the next project!
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