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Overheating 1998 Honda Civic Help

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  • #882865
    Art DegenerArt Degener
    Participant

      Hello all, I am new to this forum, but have been following Eric the Car Guy for some time now.

      I used the information posted on overheating diagnosis and believe that I have a blown head gasket, but I will give some information and maybe can get other suggestions.
      [b]
      Background information.[/b]

      About two years ago, my son who was new to cars misunderstood that purpose of the oil indicator light and thought it meant it was time to replace the oil, not that it was low on oil and he needed to add some. Well he ended up with a bad rod bearing.

      I decided to just replace the engine until I could take his apart and rebuild it. I found one in Tennessee, about 100 miles from where I live and purchased it. Got the old engine out and put the used one in. According to the description online, it was supposed to be a drop in engine as it was rated an A. That was a lie, but that is another story. As soon as we started it up, white smoke poured out the exhaust. I knew what had happened immediately. Took apart the head and sure enough, it was warped pretty badly and out of specification. Took it to a automotive machinist shop and they surfaced the head and supposedly checked it for cracks. I also checked the block surface and while warped, it was within allowable tolerances. So decided not to remove the engine again and left as was.

      Reassembled everything according to manufactures specifications and assembly instructions with a new head gasket and new head bolts. Started it up and it ran fine for about 1 to 1.5 years until about a month ago when I took it to a mechanic whom I thought I could trust. About 5 days after we got it back, it started to overheat. I followed everything that ETCG has suggested to diagnose overheating issues.

      Did a coolant pressure test at 15psi for 30 minutes+ and no leaks. Did an engine turnover with the coolant system under pressure, 15psi, to see if there would be any coolant getting into the cylinders and there was none. Checked the engine for coolant/oil mixing and it was good. Checked where the oil is added and the oil looked good, no milky froth. Did a compression check on each cylinder and got while cold 170, 160, 160, 170 and after warming up, 160, 150, 150, 160 psi. Did the engine block test with the chemical and it showed there was exhaust in the coolant, but was told that due to the original blown head gasket, that the test may not be as reliable. Did a leak down test with the pressure set to 100psi and the radiator cap off, now due to the high pressure, the cylinder was being pushed down. So to keep it from being pushed down, got it to TDC (or very close) and held the piston there and then applied the pressure. Cylinder 4 was ok, cylinder 3 was ok, cylinder 2 caused the coolant to rise and flow out the top, but not to bubbles, and cylinder 1 cause the coolant to spurt everywhere. My conclusion is that cylinder 1 has either a blown head gasket or there is a crack somewhere in the cylinder.

      I did take it back to the mechanic and told him that I do not believe in coincidences, but it is possible. I explained everything I had done and my conclusions. He checked the car out and told me that the head gasket was fine. This was 3 days ago that he did the check. Not sure how this can be when the leak down test has bubbles going into the coolant system.

      My questions are:
      1. Why would the coolant pressure test be ok, but the leak down test fail?
      2. Without taking the cylinder head off, is there a way to see if the cylinder is cracked? My guess is no.
      3. What would cause the head gasket to fail all of a sudden?
      4. Is my conclusion correct in that the head gasket has failed?
      5. Is there anything else you would suggest?

      Thanks for all your time and effort when reading this message and any posts you leave. I will try to visit often for responses and replies.

      Have a blessed day!

    Viewing 4 replies - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
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    • #882869
      MikeMike
      Participant

        What work did the mechanic do when you took the car in a month ago?

        #882870
        Art DegenerArt Degener
        Participant

          He changed the transmission oil and that is it as far as I know.

          #882892
          RichRich
          Participant

            … cylinder 2 caused the coolant to rise and flow out the top, but not to bubbles, and cylinder 1 cause the coolant to spurt everywhere.

            Cylinders 1 and 2 are connected to your coolant system somehow. You also noted:

            Did the engine block test with the chemical and it showed there was exhaust in the coolant …

            Taken together, these observations are consistent with the following causes:

            – damaged head gasket
            – warped block
            – warped head
            – cracked block

            However, it’s hard to reconcile any of these against this:

            Checked where the oil is added and the oil looked good, no milky froth.

            Have you recently changed the oil? If so, did you notice any coolant mixing? If not, what does the oil from the drain plug and dipstick look like?

            Is there any sign of oil in the coolant?

            #882895
            Art DegenerArt Degener
            Participant

              Thanks, you came to the same conclusions I had.
              The dipstick looks like oil with no coolant. Last time I changed the oil, there was no coolant mixed in.
              I removed the head today as I would rather fix the problem than usea temporary band-aid such as engine stop leak. Noticed that there was copper flakes in the coolant as though Bars Leaks was added to the coolant. I did not add this and my son did not add it, so that only leaves the mechanic. I am thinking he noticed something and just did not tell me.
              Hard to tell if there was any coolant leaking with the head removed, but since the leakdown test showed the number 1 cylinder letting bubbles through I just figured it was the head gasket. The gasket was a Fel-Pro MLS.
              Going to test the cylinder head for flatness using a straight edge that is supposed to be flat to within 0.00015 inches over the entire length. I will also be taking the cylinder head completely apart tomorrow and then taking it to the machine shop to test for cracks and if there are no cracks, to machine the surface flat if required.
              Will check the engine block for flatness again and I might be removing it and sending to the machine shop as well.
              I am also considering buying a genuine Honda head gasket. Any thoughts on this?
              Thanks and have a great day!

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