On cold start, I come to the 1st stop n I stall.

[Craig]

Honda
Ridgline RTL
Sunroof and navigation
2006
164000 Miles
Manufactured in California

Ok, I’m in need of your assistance please. I have been hunting down a suction to fix this myself bc I take pride in that. However, ader a year I losing hope. I need to solve this bc it is a safety hazard. Please give me ur experience with this issue so I can progress.

To summarize, on a cold starts 99.9% of the time, after shifting into drive and arriving at my fisrat stop sign the rpms just drop. I’ve got the following codes: P0300-0306 wt P 2279 and an occasional vacuum leak code will arise. Ihave followed Eric’s advise for bleeding out the coolant system. I replaced injector o-rings that were extremely worn. Cleaned the throttle body. Replaced the spark plugs. Changed the coil packs around. Fuel injector cleaner at every fill up. Nothing is working!!!!

Additional info that may help.

I have video footage of my stall problems. If it would help I will post this. I also have the Dtc that causedthe mil to come on its always the misfire of the cylinders usually P0301. Sometimes throws a vacumm leak code. Rich condition code came up the other day. I starting to wonder if the computer isn’t fried?

Also. The previous owner had a very expensive sound system and extra alarm in the car. Oh and of course a kickin air horn. Hid head lights for fog and regular low and high.

The truck has been in salt water and used to tow a boat. Previous and much wealthier owner.

I have read that some people resolve this through a valve adjustment. Ok so what a reasonable estimate for labor and parts for this procedure?

I really thank you Eric for your posts. Please if anyone has a suggestion. Chime in!

Topic

[Daniel]

I really doubt a valve adjustment is causing this. Honda recommends that the valves be adjusted at 100k or if there is chatter.
These codes are pretty vague. I’m pretty sure it’s not a vacuum leak because that wouldn’t go away after it’s warmed up. The lean code is probably a symptom of the underlying issue (and will hopefully go away after it’s fixed.)
So it’s either a coil pack or injector. Once we isolate the offending component we can figure out the cause of the malfunction.
Did you clear the code before switching the coil packs?

[Craig]

TY for ur response. Yes I cleared the codes. The codes I recovered were for a rich condition. It’s definitely running rich. It could be coil packs but why is it fine until I come to a stop. I know that the computer automatically cuts fuel to the injectors when cold and running at slower rpms that’s why I though it my be the computer got fried with all the crazy electronics this guy slapped together. Non the less Ty for your response. I have some many thoughts about what it cold be I don’t know wher to start. The manual does say for the misfire codes to replace spark plugs and switch the cool pack around. Then if that doesn’t work valave adjustment.
FYI I am at 160k miles. No value adjustment to date.

[Craig]

[quote=”Morgan33″ post=130308]TY for ur response. Yes I cleared the codes. The codes I recovered were for a rich condition. It’s definitely running rich. It could be coil packs but why is it fine until I come to a stop. I know that the computer automatically cuts fuel to the injectors when cold and running at slower rpms that’s why I though it my be the computer got fried with all the crazy electronics this guy slapped together. Non the less Ty for your response. I have some many thoughts about what it cold be I don’t know wher to start. The manual does say for the misfire codes to replace spark plugs and switch the cool pack around. Then if that doesn’t work valave adjustment.
FYI I am at 160k miles. No value adjustment to date.[/quote)
I will Post the pics of my codes tomorrow morning. At video of stall. Please take. Look if you can

[Daniel]

I still don’t think a valve adjustment would be the cause.
Does that vehicle shut cylinders down when you are at cruising speed (to increase fuel economy)? I had a 2000 something Honda Odyssey come in a year ago with an odd misfire that I couldn’t figure out. No matter what I did, I kept getting misfire codes on the rear cylinder banks. I found a TSB that said the software that shuts down cylinders needed to be updated by the dealer.
I told them about it and a few months later they came in for an oil change. They told me the dealer updated it for free and they hadn’t had a problem with it since.
You should try calling your local dealer. I’ll check on it when I go back into work Wednesday.

[Brian]

Does this vehicle have an egr valve?

[Daniel]

It has an EGR, but that wouldn’t cause all these misfire codes. We would probably have a cat code, egr code, and the vacuum code would be more stable (not intermittent).
This sounds very close to the Honda I mentioned earlier.

Just make sure that you take it to an actual Honda dealer. Normally I recommend that people stay away from the dealer, but they will have the manufacturer specific software required to do the update. Or, if it doesn’t need an update, they could probably narrow the problem down better with their Honda scan tools.

[Brian]

Sometimes problems pile up. A clogged or unresponsive egr can cause it to die at the first stop. The misfire codes may be unrelated and coincidental.

[Author]

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