Old tech question: Setting ignition timin by ear

[Agustin Alfonso Cesar Charles]

So, hello fellows, me again banana: banana:

I have this question following me around because our car doesn’t have the timing belt cover (plastic, broken, gone far away).

So, google and I have been in a dilemma because I believe I have the timing set correctly but I have doubts, for example:

From the mark and I have on my dizzi (I made several, quite close togheter to be as exact as possible):

if I move it to retard the timing (like one notch) the car feels sluggish, lacks power a little, a little delay at the gas pedal to engine reaction (not much but let’s say 10 to 15% less power) but from cranking to engine start-running is almost instant.

if I move it to advance the timing (again, like one notch), the car feels powerful, no delay at gas pedal, but cranking takes about 3 to 5 seconds, sometimes I crank it maybe like 3 turns, let it rest, and on the second crank try it will fire up almost inmediately (I guess is because there is gas mist inside the cylinders already), also, on high speeds (around 3k or 4k rpm, on steep hills, going on the last gear, remember is an auto transmission) I believe I can hear some pinging.

I decided to move to retard like almost half a notch, pinging is gone (can’t hear it, so I guess is there but it won’t occurr around 3k to 4k rpm, maybe higher and I rarely go higher, and live with the 3 to 5 second cranking time.

Also set my carb a little bit to the lean side (like 1/8 of turn), but the real thing still bugs me, what would be the correct steps to set timing by ear?

I know I should get the timing cover asap, but you know how it is here 🙁

Anyways, I will take a pic of my dizzy mark so you can see my setting.

Topic

[Bluesnut]

The only advice I will offer is that you really need to set this car up so the ignition timing can be properly checked with a timing light.
Speaking as a mechanic, I can say that I have personally seen several engines that were destroyed by improper ignition timing. The usual cause was a bit too much advance which then wiped out pistons and cylinder walls. This problem can be made even worse if the EGR system is not 100% operational.

[college man]

I can’t do it by ear.I need a timing light.

[richiepearce]

old wives tale, you may get it close but will only get it right with a light.

[Agustin Alfonso Cesar Charles]

I know guys, I really need the timing cover (besides timing, stuff like protecting the belt from debrys and water too). Is just that the cover itself (here, remember, my country 😛 ) is being sold way too expensive.

I saw it on ebay several times but I haven´t got the chance to buy it (mainly I have been buying engine spare parts and interior stuff that was missing), plus the shipping overseas.

Anyways, I do promise to buy it and use a timing light to set the timing right ( and then make a big mark on the distribuitor to never forget it ever), but meanwhile, just need some pointers to get close so the engine runs good and doesn´t destroy itself :unsure:

I forgot about the pics, but I made a new test, I moved the dizzy a little more to retard (like 1/8) and it feels good, I guess I can keep this setting and it will not harm the engine much (as long as I don´t push it much) and I hope it will hold until I get the cover some day…

Some day… 🙁 🙁 🙁 🙁

[Bluesnut]

Until set with a timing light you might try this as a means of averting a potential disaster.
With the engine fully warmed up find an uphill grade. With the radio, cabin fan, etc off and listening closely, nail it from a slow speed while going uphill and note if you hear any rattling or pinging.

If not, it should be surviveable until a light is obtained.
If it rattles at all, retard it a tiny bit more.

I’m not sure of this and maybe someone else knows the answer, but some chain parts stores such as AutoZone or O’Reillys may have a timing light that can be rented as part of their tool loaner program. When the light is returned the rental fee is given back to you.

Setting the timing on cars with computer controlled ignition timing usually means there is a test plug involved that may need to be grounded or jumped.
That info should be on the underhood sticker and that sticker always takes precedence over information published in service manuals and so on.

[Author]

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