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So I read a suggestion- but am not going to do it unless its plausible.
That using a lighter weight oil is better for your engine. Makes sense right? Less resistance, the less load on the engine, more hp to the wheels. My question is why not do it? Do car companies worry about oil leaks and thats why a lighter weight is not suggested or is there another reason?So my car takes 5W-30. What would happen if I switched to 0W-30?
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Many think that using a lighter oil will bring extra wear, that just isnt the case. First and most important, use the weight/grade of oil that your manufacturer calls for and please dont fall for some old myths that your buddies have told you, its a bunch of BS.
Many think that using a lighter oil will bring extra wear, that just isnt the case. First and most important, use the weight/grade of oil that your manufacturer calls for and please dont fall for some old myths that your buddies have told you, its a bunch of BS.
[quote=”vlasktom” post=69024]My car, a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L V6, calls for 10W-30. If I use 0W-20 would that be a problem?
My old mechanic, who I don’t go to anymore, said for me to protect the engine best, use 85W-150 gear oil. I said hell no and left.[/quote]
Not going to discuss using 85w-150 in your crank case – this is just too ridiculous to even talk about.
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In my opinion, 0W-20 in your 1990 Buick Regal would be a poor choice though it probably wouldn’t necessarily ruin your engine (at least not right away).
Reasoning, is this car originally called for 10w-30, which was surely Dino/Conventional in 1990! (Yes, you could get Mobile 1 or Ams Synthetic back then, but that was about it, and it was not in many markets.)
The 10w-30 (probably API SL) was just the norm of the day before 5w-30 became prolific. Keep in mind 5w-30 first came out for general use around 1985 and it really wasn’t the go-to oil of choice until the mid to late 90’s. Not to mention conventional/dino surely sheered quite a bit quicker than today’s oils. A 10W-30 can only sheer back to 10, though that is highly unlikely. A 5W-30 sheers easier, but after a fresh oil change is just as thick as 10W-30 at operating temperature.
A fresh oil change with 5w-20 is going to be thinner than a fresh oil change with 5W-30 at operating temperature… That said, it is well within the realm of possibility of 5W-30 sheering all the way back to 5W-20 by the end of an oil change. Some people report their oil consumption goes WAY up toward the end of their oil change – this is surely the reason why.
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In your Buick, a SAE 20 weight oil (i.e. 5W-20 or 0W-20) is really too thin especially given its age. Parts (like journal bearings) have a LOT of miles on them and are obviously a bit more worn than a brand, new engine. Hence, the overall oil pressure has surely dropped a little since the car was new. Using a 20 weight oil will drop the oil pressure even more and might not really have adequate film strength on the lubricated parts.
Do I think the engine will explode if you make the switch??? NO! However, I would wager it would start burning/consuming (or leaking) more oil.
I would personally stick with what the oil cap says 10W-30. However, if you are bound and determined to change it, please take baby steps.. Plain, Conventional Vanilla 5W-30 would be the logical, inexpensive choice if you are determined to not follow Buick’s recommendations. It will certainly flow a little better in the winter and be certainly be right on spec at operating temperature.
It isn’t likely to be too thin at start-up either because it is still going to be thicker than when the engine is up to temperature (and it’s fine then)… any oil is ALWAYS thicker when cold and thinner when hot…
Theoretically, 0W-30 would be fine, too… but I wouldn’t go there and cross that bridge (unless I had the vehicle stored outdoors in an Alaskan winter). banana:
[quote=”vlasktom” post=69024]My car, a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L V6, calls for 10W-30. If I use 0W-20 would that be a problem?
My old mechanic, who I don’t go to anymore, said for me to protect the engine best, use 85W-150 gear oil. I said hell no and left.[/quote]
Not going to discuss using 85w-150 in your crank case – this is just too ridiculous to even talk about.
*********************
In my opinion, 0W-20 in your 1990 Buick Regal would be a poor choice though it probably wouldn’t necessarily ruin your engine (at least not right away).
Reasoning, is this car originally called for 10w-30, which was surely Dino/Conventional in 1990! (Yes, you could get Mobile 1 or Ams Synthetic back then, but that was about it, and it was not in many markets.)
The 10w-30 (probably API SL) was just the norm of the day before 5w-30 became prolific. Keep in mind 5w-30 first came out for general use around 1985 and it really wasn’t the go-to oil of choice until the mid to late 90’s. Not to mention conventional/dino surely sheered quite a bit quicker than today’s oils. A 10W-30 can only sheer back to 10, though that is highly unlikely. A 5W-30 sheers easier, but after a fresh oil change is just as thick as 10W-30 at operating temperature.
A fresh oil change with 5w-20 is going to be thinner than a fresh oil change with 5W-30 at operating temperature… That said, it is well within the realm of possibility of 5W-30 sheering all the way back to 5W-20 by the end of an oil change. Some people report their oil consumption goes WAY up toward the end of their oil change – this is surely the reason why.
******************
In your Buick, a SAE 20 weight oil (i.e. 5W-20 or 0W-20) is really too thin especially given its age. Parts (like journal bearings) have a LOT of miles on them and are obviously a bit more worn than a brand, new engine. Hence, the overall oil pressure has surely dropped a little since the car was new. Using a 20 weight oil will drop the oil pressure even more and might not really have adequate film strength on the lubricated parts.
Do I think the engine will explode if you make the switch??? NO! However, I would wager it would start burning/consuming (or leaking) more oil.
I would personally stick with what the oil cap says 10W-30. However, if you are bound and determined to change it, please take baby steps.. Plain, Conventional Vanilla 5W-30 would be the logical, inexpensive choice if you are determined to not follow Buick’s recommendations. It will certainly flow a little better in the winter and be certainly be right on spec at operating temperature.
It isn’t likely to be too thin at start-up either because it is still going to be thicker than when the engine is up to temperature (and it’s fine then)… any oil is ALWAYS thicker when cold and thinner when hot…
Theoretically, 0W-30 would be fine, too… but I wouldn’t go there and cross that bridge (unless I had the vehicle stored outdoors in an Alaskan winter). banana:
[quote=”boda777″ post=90126]Were do you get 0w-30 I never seen it for sale.[/quote]
Pretty much any auto-parts store will have it (for about $35/jug)
Personally, I really like Mobile 1 and hate Walmart, which is where I buy oil because they sell it cheap ($25)!
[IMG]http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/07/19/24/44/0007192444874_500X500.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0W-30-Advanced-Fuel-Economy-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5qt/17034369
^^^ That literally works out to only $5/quart, and it is a quality brand you can trust && synthetic!
[quote=”boda777″ post=90126]Were do you get 0w-30 I never seen it for sale.[/quote]
Pretty much any auto-parts store will have it (for about $35/jug)
Personally, I really like Mobile 1 and hate Walmart, which is where I buy oil because they sell it cheap ($25)!
[IMG]http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/07/19/24/44/0007192444874_500X500.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0W-30-Advanced-Fuel-Economy-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5qt/17034369
^^^ That literally works out to only $5/quart, and it is a quality brand you can trust && synthetic!
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