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So I read a suggestion- but am not going to do it unless its plausible.
That using a lighter weight oil is better for your engine. Makes sense right? Less resistance, the less load on the engine, more hp to the wheels. My question is why not do it? Do car companies worry about oil leaks and thats why a lighter weight is not suggested or is there another reason?So my car takes 5W-30. What would happen if I switched to 0W-30?
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[quote=”jthomsonmain” post=41797][quote=”OnThe7ThDayFord” post=32592]My truck calls for 10-30 but i ran 10-40 but i also have almost 300k. I did this to bring the oil pressure up…. Its like dreamer would say (Band aid)[/quote]
Correct me if I am wrong here, but what is this accomplishing? You are moving to thicker oil and gaining more pressure when the motor is warm, but that added pressure is from the thicker oil causing more resistance to flow. While you do get higher pressure, you also get lower flow volume, unless that’s what you are trying to achieve.[/quote]
I like the way you think.
Pressure is resistance to flow.
Really what should be on a lube system is a flow meter and a pressure gauge, since you want to know oil is flowing. Remember you could have oil pressure with no flow, and the oil is just blowing over the relief built into the pump(or worse the system in the filter)but you also want pressure since it helps suspend the bearings in a film of oil.Another strange downside to having a higher oil pressure is heat, NO its not created from the pressure, it is created from the force on the oil being released. I know its backwards from gasses.
[quote=”W00DBar0n” post=42394]I like the way you think.[/quote]
Thanks! Comes from years working on pumps[quote=”W00DBar0n” post=42394]Really what should be on a lube system is a flow meter and a pressure gauge[/quote]
But alas, if you follow the manufacturers specs and the motor is in good mechanical shape, a pressure gauge works just fine to let you know basically that there is oil pressure, and that the oil pressure is in its intended range (low pressure or high pressure both could indicate a low flow issue).[quote=”W00DBar0n” post=42394]I like the way you think.[/quote]
Thanks! Comes from years working on pumps[quote=”W00DBar0n” post=42394]Really what should be on a lube system is a flow meter and a pressure gauge[/quote]
But alas, if you follow the manufacturers specs and the motor is in good mechanical shape, a pressure gauge works just fine to let you know basically that there is oil pressure, and that the oil pressure is in its intended range (low pressure or high pressure both could indicate a low flow issue).[quote=”jthomsonmain” post=42395]
But alas, if you follow the manufacturers specs and the motor is in good mechanical shape, a pressure gauge works just fine to let you know basically that there is oil pressure, and that the oil pressure is in its intended range (low pressure or high pressure both could indicate a low flow issue).[/quote]
Yes this is true, but it mainly tells you there is an issue with either the relief or the pump it self if you are getting low pressure and low flow.As for the pumps you work on… what types we talking here? I mainly work on pressure/flow compensated variable piston pumps. I rarely work on gear or vane pumps these days unless i am doing a charge pump for the piston pump.
[quote=”jthomsonmain” post=42395]
But alas, if you follow the manufacturers specs and the motor is in good mechanical shape, a pressure gauge works just fine to let you know basically that there is oil pressure, and that the oil pressure is in its intended range (low pressure or high pressure both could indicate a low flow issue).[/quote]
Yes this is true, but it mainly tells you there is an issue with either the relief or the pump it self if you are getting low pressure and low flow.As for the pumps you work on… what types we talking here? I mainly work on pressure/flow compensated variable piston pumps. I rarely work on gear or vane pumps these days unless i am doing a charge pump for the piston pump.
From what im learning more and more, sifting through a sea of car fact and crap is that a lot of these things are for certain applications. Much like low temp thermostats and other mods that would increase performance or fuel economy if done in unison with other specific mods only then will it make a difference. Im thinking that if you’re boosted or running a cooler engine than stock then you would want to choose different oil weights.
This is kinda late cuz I asked this a long time ago, oddly enough Ive learned so much more in that time. I find Hondas are particularly picky when it comes to oil pressure, especially vtec engines.
From what im learning more and more, sifting through a sea of car fact and crap is that a lot of these things are for certain applications. Much like low temp thermostats and other mods that would increase performance or fuel economy if done in unison with other specific mods only then will it make a difference. Im thinking that if you’re boosted or running a cooler engine than stock then you would want to choose different oil weights.
This is kinda late cuz I asked this a long time ago, oddly enough Ive learned so much more in that time. I find Hondas are particularly picky when it comes to oil pressure, especially vtec engines.
There is something called “Mineral Oil Mentality” where people believe thicker oil offers more protection, which is not true.
Oil pumps move fluid, thicker fluids require more power to move them, which leads to unnecessary heat. All transmissions now are using a lighter fluid (Low Viscosity) in just about everything from a car to heavy equipment. Field trials have proven that lighter fluids are more efficient and just as reliable as the heavy grades used in the past.
There is something called boundary lubrication and a good quality oil will prevent wear even if there is no pressure between moving parts. The lighter oils get there quicker and have less drag from churning oil between moving parts. So you can see there is less power wasted by the heavier fluids and wear is not a concern unless fuel dilution is a problem.
There is something called “Mineral Oil Mentality” where people believe thicker oil offers more protection, which is not true.
Oil pumps move fluid, thicker fluids require more power to move them, which leads to unnecessary heat. All transmissions now are using a lighter fluid (Low Viscosity) in just about everything from a car to heavy equipment. Field trials have proven that lighter fluids are more efficient and just as reliable as the heavy grades used in the past.
There is something called boundary lubrication and a good quality oil will prevent wear even if there is no pressure between moving parts. The lighter oils get there quicker and have less drag from churning oil between moving parts. So you can see there is less power wasted by the heavier fluids and wear is not a concern unless fuel dilution is a problem.
My car, a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L V6, calls for 10W-30. If I use 0W-20 would that be a problem?
My old mechanic, who I don’t go to anymore, said for me to protect the engine best, use 85W-150 gear oil. I said hell no and left.
My car, a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L V6, calls for 10W-30. If I use 0W-20 would that be a problem?
My old mechanic, who I don’t go to anymore, said for me to protect the engine best, use 85W-150 gear oil. I said hell no and left.
[quote=”vlasktom” post=69024]My car, a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L V6, calls for 10W-30. If I use 0W-20 would that be a problem?
My old mechanic, who I don’t go to anymore, said for me to protect the engine best, use 85W-150 gear oil. I said hell no and left.[/quote]
Stick to what is listed on your oil cap or owners manual.
[quote=”vlasktom” post=69024]My car, a 1990 Buick Century 3.3L V6, calls for 10W-30. If I use 0W-20 would that be a problem?
My old mechanic, who I don’t go to anymore, said for me to protect the engine best, use 85W-150 gear oil. I said hell no and left.[/quote]
Stick to what is listed on your oil cap or owners manual.
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