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I am uncertain which seals you are looking to replace. I am attaching a PDF file to this message. I hope you can open it. If not, please send me a message and I will email it to you. Good luck, Aaron
Thanks for the diagram. It looks as if you need to remove the entire pump to get to the crank shaft seal and o – rings. Am I correct about this? Haynes says the oil pan and part of the exhaust need to be removed also along with part of the sub frame. I don’t have any of the special tools (in engine hanger, seal tapping socket). Man I need this done but I don’t have the money and I can’t do the timing belt until the leak is fixed or I run the risk of ruining it.
As far as the tools, autostores often sell the two point or three point engine support for $75.00. A lot of money when you have none, but compared to a life…worth it. I really don’t advise the 4×4 across the car as it’s not designed for it. The socket seal driver, what I used when driving in the drive axle seals on the tranny was to go to home depot and find pipe fittings ($2-4) that fit the outside diameter. I suspect you could do the same here (put the old seal in between to prevent damage to the new one).
It’s a bit more involved than you think. You need to drop the oil pan a little to remove it so make sure that is indeed what is leaking before you dive in. Information on how to locate leaks can be found here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-leaks
Good luck and keep us posted.
If I break the seal on the oil pan would I not have to remove it to reseal it? Haynes says to pack the cavities with petroleum jelly. This sounds strange and it’s the only place I’ve read it. Do you recommend this? Is the engine support truly needed? What about removing the cross member and exhaust?
Thx for the input,
Michael o.
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