Oil light coming on after Switch replacement

[Mikhail]

I got a 91′ accord that’s newly been rebuilt. I went to replace the oil pressure switch because it was leaking. What’s happening now is the oil light rhythmically comes on when the car is all the way warmed up and I am driving, and it will go solid red (meaning no oil pressure) when the car is stopped. When I am in park and rev the car up the light will start blinking again.

What I have done to test the connection to the switch is jack the car up, turn it on, and then unplug the switch connector. When I did it the first time, the oil light went off completely; when I did it the second time the oil light started blinking rhythmically (as though it were malfunctioning).

I was thinking maybe the switch is defective, I may just replace it. But if that won’t work maybe pressure test is in order. Thing is the engine runs fine and it did run fine even before I replaced the switch.

Either I damaged the connector when I took it off my old one, or the new switch I got is defective. OR, I really do have bad oil pressure and I have ruined my engine since I ran it with the light on for over 10 miles. This seems unlikely cause the car sounds healthy. There probably is pressure, there must be because the old one didn’t trigger the light before. This new switch is triggering the light like there’s no tomorrow.

Either way I still need some help on what to do. Eric, you would know about this since you worked on Honda’s a lot.

Ty.

Topic

[college man]

I would get a mechanical gauge in there to read actual
oil pressure. that will tell you if the switch is the
problem or oil pressure/volume is the problem.

[John B Kobberstad]

I agree, test it with an oil pressure gauge.

[Mikhail]

Do you guys think I can use a compression tester with a smaller adapter to test the oil pressure? I don’t have a oil tester yet, that’s an hours drive away.

[Charles]

Compression tester has a one-way valve. Goes up but not down. You are looking for something that will measure 5 – 10 PSI depending on the engine type

[Mikhail]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32868]Compression tester has a one-way valve. Goes up but not down. You are looking for something that will measure 5 – 10 PSI depending on the engine type[/quote]

K, thanks. I just went out and started my car and warmed it up to operating temp. The light never came on for some reason. Its only when I start driving it that it comes on. Wierd, what could that mean? Maybe it has something to do with electrical current or something. Last time it came on I was braking at a stop sign. It wants to start tripping out when I stop from a decent drive. After that it starts to blink while I’m driving and stay on when i’m stopped (that means no oil pressure).

[Charles]

OK, Do you think you have the correct filter on the car? Is oil not returning to the oil pan? Use the dip stick while the engine is at idle and make sure you see oil.

[college man]

here is a link for a gauge.you may be able to rent one.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_style-line-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge–black-dial-sunpro_17122009-p

[Mikhail]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32872]OK, Do you think you have the correct filter on the car? Is oil not returning to the oil pan? Use the dip stick while the engine is at idle and make sure you see oil.[/quote]

Yes, the filter is fine, its a mobil 1. I did check the dippy stick as it was idling and the oil was running up the stick about 1/4 of the way up it. That means good pressure I suppose.

[Mikhail]

[quote=”college man” post=32878]here is a link for a gauge.you may be able to rent one.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_style-line-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge–black-dial-sunpro_17122009-p%5B/quote%5D

Thanks but isn’t that just a dial? I called Advance already and they told me about a gauge just like the one you linked. They said it was just a dial.

Harbor Freight has whole kits of them with different adapters for 19.99. That stores an hour away though.

Harbor Freight has prices that are out of his world,

Oil Pressure Test Kit

[college man]

[quote=”Mishakol129″ post=32880][quote=”college man” post=32878]here is a link for a gauge.you may be able to rent one.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_style-line-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge–black-dial-sunpro_17122009-p%5B/quote%5D

Thanks but isn’t that just a dial? I called Advance already and they told me about a gauge just like the one you linked. They said it was just a dial.

Harbor Freight has whole kits of them with different adapters for 19.99. That stores an hour away though.

Harbor Freight has prices that are out of his world,

Oil Pressure Test Kit[/quote]

I believe its the pressure gauge,tubing,bezel and fittings.
I thought you could use for diagnostic of the oil pressure instead
of buying a oil pressure test kit that you might use once.the other
way you could nicely mount the gauge and always have it as a good visual.
This way you could keep an eye on the oil pressure.;)

[Charles]

Back to basics. The trouble started when you replaced the leaking oil pressure switch. Are you sure you installed the correct part? There may be two different types used on the car. One is the idiot light that just grounds the wire attached to it when the oil pressure gets too low and the other is an oil pressure sending unit that provides a voltage signal to the guage or ECM. Use a test light or meter on the old switch while you provide light air pressure to the oil inlet. See if you can determine what pressure causes the light to go off. Do the same for the one you installed as a replacement. If there is a significant difference or they do not operate the same, you might have the wrong or a bad switch.

[Mikhail]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32886]Back to basics. The trouble started when you replaced the leaking oil pressure switch. Are you sure you installed the correct part? There may be two different types used on the car. One is the idiot light that just grounds the wire attached to it when the oil pressure gets too low and the other is an oil pressure sending unit that provides a voltage signal to the guage or ECM. Use a test light or meter on the old switch while you provide light air pressure to the oil inlet. See if you can determine what pressure causes the light to go off. Do the same for the one you installed as a replacement. If there is a significant difference or they do not operate the same, you might have the wrong or a bad switch.[/quote]

You are right, there are 2 types of switches; a OEM style one and a non OEM style one. I have the non OEM one, I should have got the other one.

Here is the one I should have installed:

[i][b]”Oil pressure sender for use with a factory warning light. Preset to OE specifications to send a signal should oil pressure drop below a minimum level. This is a-direct fit OES replacement switch.
Product Application(s):
1991 Honda Accord LX
W/Light”[/b][/i]

Here is the one I have that’s not working right:

[i][b]”BWD oil pressure switches are manufactured to meet or exceed OE performance.
Product Application(s):
1991 Honda Accord LX
With Light; OE Style; New Number
[/b][/i]

I did the many tests found in the official Honda owners manual. It concluded that the oil switch had continuity as well as the wiring going to the oil switch. I used a multimeter to test the switch and also the control box in the car that triggers the light. It all tested good. However, that doesn’t rule out a mechanical failure in the switch itself during operation. I will change the oil and the switch and see what that does, if it does nothing then I will test the oil pressure.

[Mikhail]

[quote=”Jotmon1″ post=32886]Back to basics. The trouble started when you replaced the leaking oil pressure switch. Are you sure you installed the correct part? There may be two different types used on the car. One is the idiot light that just grounds the wire attached to it when the oil pressure gets too low and the other is an oil pressure sending unit that provides a voltage signal to the guage or ECM. Use a test light or meter on the old switch while you provide light air pressure to the oil inlet. See if you can determine what pressure causes the light to go off. Do the same for the one you installed as a replacement. If there is a significant difference or they do not operate the same, you might have the wrong or a bad switch.[/quote]

I don’t know how I could put pressure to the switch unless I had a special tool (what tool?). Anyways, I can’t really understand why the light wants to come on when i’m driving but not when i’m idling. Its like maybe there’s something in the oil pan that’s clogging the screen. I don’t think that’s what’s happening but it seems like it.

[college man]

I thought in your first post that you had a freshly rebuilt
Honda accord? You should not have junk in the pan or screen.
unless you have machine shavings from parts not being cleaned
and being reinstalled.

[Mikhail]

[quote=”college man” post=32900]I thought in your first post that you had a freshly rebuilt
Honda accord? You should not have junk in the pan or screen.
unless you have machine shavings from parts not being cleaned
and being reinstalled.[/quote]

Yeah but it was my first time rebuilding (overhauling) an engine. I really doubt that the screen is clogged its just that’s what is seems like. I just changed the oil pan not long ago and when I saw the screen it didn’t look clogged. It had some tiny specs of debris but nothing that would clog it.

Also, some people on a Honda forum were telling me how should have measured the main and rod bearings. The clearances on the main bearings are important for oil pressure. What I did was just put STD bearings on. I figured “STD bearings should go on a STD block”. But people on the Honda forum were telling me no, they are color coded and you have to measure them to be sure.

I don’t know if those guys were trying to give me a hard time or what, maybe someone in here knows something about STD bearing sizes.

[Author]

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