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I have a 2001 ford Taurus, 3.0 When i floor the gas pedal then let it go in park, she will come down to 500 rpm or so and oil light comes on and she wants to stall, sometimes she does. I have had new fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, NO codes? It started after an oil change? My mechanic says he can not find anything? She runs fine and idles fine, except when you do that with the gas pedal. Any ideas? Thanks.
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I’m just a student, so you can take this for what its worth. Based off your video I believe the core issue is the wrong weight oil. Go back to the manufacturer specified oil type for your car. Having a 30 weight over a 20 makes it thicker while hot.
Another thing to remember is modern cars will shut off power to the alternator and disengage the ac compressor while reving/accelerating to increase power. That is completely normal and explains why the lights dim and ac turn off in your video. They re-engage once you let up off the throttle. Add in the increased torque to the oil pump with the heavier oil and it is logging even harder until the IAC brings up your idle. If the problem is exactly like it is in the video and only occurs for a second, I’d say its pretty normal. Just go back to the correct oil.
I am no mechanic, so take my thoughts with a grain of salt, but from all the posts, here are my thoughts that I think were missed:
1. I believe just putting in a new battery does NOT force a relearn. You need to disconnect the battery for about 30 min. That will clear the computer of all it learned. If you disconnect, pull out the battery and put a new one in– that’s not enough if it took 10 min. I have an 89 mustang– from what I’ve read, new IACs can be bad from the factory as well– but probably not.
2. From what I understand about the oil light on the dash, it’s driven by an oil sensor in the side of the block. The way I think it works is an on/off switch based on resistance. If it’s sitting in oil, it’s off. If it’s not sitting in oil, it’s on and turns the light on your dash. So to me, you’re seeing the light when there’s no oil on the sensor– at which point– where does the oil go?
The oil light he is discussing, Jules is the pressure light. What you described is the oil level low light. The pressure sensor has a switch attached to a diaphragm. Once pressure falls below a calibrated value the sensor grounds the signal wire completing the circuit and energizing the oil light. The most likely reason his is turning on is the engine almost stalls causing system pressure to fall low enough to turn on the light.
Thank you for your thoughts. I am going to change the oil & filter and IAC. And see if it still does it. I will post when I am done.
From what I have heard and have witnessed is fords have a KAM or Keep Alive Memory that does not always reset with the battery disconnected, you need a good scan tool to reset the KAM so the re-learn process will take place, atleast i know i have it on my 1999 Contour and after changing my IAC my idle would drop just like that untill i finally cleared the KAM, found the info from Scanner Danner..
Heres a little HOW-TO to make it re-learn..
unplug the negative batt cable for 30-45 mins.
step on the brake for about 1 min. (this drains the EEC)
come back, reattach neg. batt. cable
start car. turn on all accessories, turn the wheels both ways, a/c, apply all the load possible to the engine. this will re-teach the IAC motor.Thanks for your suggestions, I tried and it is still doing it, I also have had oil changed and filter. I went to a new place, The guy there said it could be a bad light? Will keep searching although this is getting expensive 🙁
Get one of these
http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html
dirt cheap and you can verify the oil pressure numbers yourself and actually see if you have an oil pressure issue.
Whenever we have a oil pressure light or gauge issue here at the shop we use that to actually see if there is a real issue or if the sending unit is getting tired and reporting the wrong pressure.
Had a van in here 2 weeks ago with a oil light on at idle, owner was quoted new engine prices from 2 shops and came to me for a 3rd opinion. We pulled the sending unit and tested actual pressure, turns out the sending unit was bad 🙂 . New sending unit and a bill for $65.00 and owner went away happy and with the couple grand the other shops wanted for a new engine in his bank account.
I doubt it has anything to do with the light. You can verify this by doing an oil psi test with an analog gauge. You can find these for about $20 or rent them from an auto parts store or something. I believe it’s low idle that’s causing the light to come on. If not, then perhaps the clearances between the moving parts of the engine has become excessive. I doubt that however based on our description. If the idle is low, the light will likely come on due to lack of sufficient oil psi.
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