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I have a 2001 ford Taurus, 3.0 When i floor the gas pedal then let it go in park, she will come down to 500 rpm or so and oil light comes on and she wants to stall, sometimes she does. I have had new fuel filter, cleaned throttle body, NO codes? It started after an oil change? My mechanic says he can not find anything? She runs fine and idles fine, except when you do that with the gas pedal. Any ideas? Thanks.
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:angry: I am back. Car was fine after last post. Now it has started again. When car is operating temp. If you give it some gas say to 3000 or 4000 and let go, she comes down and wants to stall and oil light comes on? No one here knows what the heck it is? I have spent a bunch of money already. Car has 84,000 miles i have had it since it was new. I have not abused it. changed oil when it was recommended. the car has been garaged kept the whole time looks brand new inside and out. What the heck could this be? Thanks.
A trusted mechanic should not have “no idea” what it is. He should be able to look at what is happening in real time, and figure out the cause.
It might be time to see perhaps a dealership technician to work this issue out for you.
Could be many diffrent things.
A dirty MAF
A dirty throttle body
secondary ignition problemsFord told me that there was no codes, so they could not tell me. Thanks.
That is laziness on their part, there is a reason techs are taught no code drive-ability diagnostics. You need a shop that understands Mode $06, that would tell them if any systems were close to failing. That rev stumble might be the symptom of a problem coming on. A good tech with a scope and proper scan tool could find what is going on when let off the accelerator.
Every problem has a solution. Based on how you’ve taken care of the vehicle, and the fact that you’ve had it since new, leads me to believe it’s the low idle that’s causing the light to come on. As suggested, checking the actual oil PSI is a very good idea to make sure. Oil pressure is critical to proper operation of the engine. The correct oil is also critical. Put in what the oil cap or owners manual says to put in, nothing else. Your mechanic should know that. It doesn’t sound like you’re getting anywhere with the people you’re working with. Perhaps check Angie’s List or something like that to look for a new shop to take it to.
Keep us posted on your progress.
I’ve seen this in other vehicles. Non of them automatics mind you. It sounds like you trust your mechanic witch is nice to hear since most people these days don’t have “a guy” they keep business with but it sounds like a second opinion might be in order. A low idle like that is usually quick to solve, in fact it takes less time than to type all this out.
With the oil pressure light I would say its the low idle. While its ideling low if you raise it does the light go away? If this is the case I would definatly say its the lack of volume being pumped up from the pan. The cap will say what oil to use. Failing that the manual in the glove box will either give you a specific oil type, or a range based on climate.
In any case, what I did was first check the idle controllers function. In some cases its easy to back probe the electrical socket leaving it attached and read normal milliamp values at operating temp with the AC off and no rad fan running. Get the idle to drop and go look. If the numbers are almost zero or are zero I would immediately go investigate the throttle. Some cars use a separate switch to tell the ECU its at idle position, some cars use one throttle sensor. Look up online the resistance range closed and wide open for the TPS and plug your multimeter into its connector, swing the TPS across the range and more importantly see what it says at closed. If its out of adjustment the ECU may not read that the throttle is closed and wont switch to the IAC. Most cars if at temp will idle without the IAC running but they will idle very low.
Most vehicles when you shift to gear from P the idle will drop. It could be caused by bad info from the throttle position sensor, or it could also be caused by a worn/dirty IAC, sticking. One good test I learnt for a dirty/sticky IAC is to wack it with a hammer handle a few times while the idle is not where it should be. If it changes you know where the issue is.
Here is a video of my oil light problem. Thanks all.
From what I could see you are experiencing what I used to call the “Ford IAC stumble”, this often happens before the IAC valve starts to get stuck or fail leading to stalls.
Try this remove the IAC valve and clean it and clean the throttle body really well using a throttle body cleaner (I don’t recommend carb cleaner or brake cleaner because ford puts a coating on their throttle bodies the harsher stuff will strip it off)
[quote=”dolly244″ post=77481]It is a new IAC and I just paid to have the throttle body cleaned? Thanks[/quote]
Did they disconnect the battery after replacing the IAC to force a “relearn”?
And did you verify that the throttle body is clean? I would pull the intake boot off and look into the Throttle body and see if it is clean, there also is a metering hole drilled into the throttle plate that LOVES to get clogged up, when they do the engine will often do the IAC stumble.
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