Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › Oil leak on Civic 99 EX D16Y8 stock
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February 20, 2012 at 11:00 am #451124
I got a Honda Civic 1999 EX with D16Y8 block stock. I experience an oil leak around the oil pan. I have replace the oil pan gasket and fresh dizzy o-ring and it’s still LEAKING!! 😥
Someone please help me point out the leaking parts thank :beer:
If you need more picture or anything that help tell me
[url=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/img20120220203921.jpg/:3b68ipcg]
[url=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/16/img20120218123030.jpg/:3b68ipcg] -
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February 20, 2012 at 11:00 am #451125
Welcome to the forums.
Alot of oil leaks start form the top of the motor so check the basics like the valve cover gasket.
Id also look at your front and rear main seals.
I would degrease the area’s of the engine that have excessive oil build up, then recheck for leaks when you have a cleaner surface visable.
You can also add UV dye to your oil and use a black light to locate leak quicker.
February 20, 2012 at 11:00 am #451126I can’t tell what the 1st picture is of, but in the 2nd picture I see oil behind the crankshaft pulley, in the timing belt area, so i would suspect one of the seals (crankshaft, balance shaft, camshaft) – but it may also be from elsewhere, though that area doesn’t really look all that bad.
Can you look at the engine and identify the dry/wet border anywhere?
February 20, 2012 at 11:00 am #451127Quoted From johnzcarz:
I can’t tell what the 1st picture is of, but in the 2nd picture I see oil behind the crankshaft pulley, in the timing belt area, so i would suspect one of the seals (crankshaft, balance shaft, camshaft) – but it may also be from elsewhere, though that area doesn’t really look all that bad.
Can you look at the engine and identify the dry/wet border anywhere?
I have look in to the value cover, it seal good. I can’t find where it coming from. The first picture if between engine block and trany.
Thank for your help.
February 21, 2012 at 11:00 am #451128Have you rule out the rear main seal? It does looks like the leak is coming from the cranshaft front seal, but I cannot be certain until you take off the timing cover and verify that it is not leaking from above (camshaft seal or valve cover)
February 21, 2012 at 11:00 am #451129Quoted From skim3544:
Have you rule out the rear main seal? It does looks like the leak is coming from the cranshaft front seal, but I cannot be certain until you take off the timing cover and verify that it is not leaking from above (camshaft seal or valve cover)
How can I take out the timing cover without removing the crank pulley cause I don’t have the tool to remove it 🙁
February 21, 2012 at 11:00 am #451130I would try to isolate the leak before you attempt to remove parts.
February 21, 2012 at 11:00 am #451131Quoted From dreamer2355:
I would try to isolate the leak before you attempt to remove parts.
Agreed. Clean everything up with some brake parts cleaner or similar, and keep an eye on the leaks. I would suggest the UV dye if you can’t pin it down after that.
February 21, 2012 at 11:00 am #451132Hi everyone,
Today, I put the UV oil dye into the oil and the leak show up very well. But my camera don’t want to see UV so I have to manually redraw it on pics for you guy 🙂
It look like leak from dizzy if fixed but my rear main is seen leaking very bad, and leaking somewhere in timing cover too :thud:
I don’t have access to lift. Can I pull the tranny with just a floor jack? Do you have any link that will give me some help? I just got this car for $2800 and it got shit load of leaks I think I got rip off
February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #451138Well, clutchs aren’t alot of fun to replace on your back, so if you can afford OEM parts, go that route. You will drain the tranny before you pull it, so that should drop some weight. I would guesstimate 75-100 lbs dry? I lifted mine into my Prizm from my back, and it wasn’t too awful, but I’m a pretty big guy. If you are going to have the tranny out to do the main seal, and the clutch has some miles on it, you might as well do it while you’re in there, in my opinion. You’re more than likely pulling the flywheel and clutch assembly anyway, so even more reason to replace it while yer in there.
I think you added that while I was typing, but no, don’t start the engine while the trans is out. You will have at least a couple of the motor mounts out to get the trans out, as well as mebbe the down pipe for the exhaust, etc.
February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #451133you can use a floor jack. I would put a small piece of 3/4” ply wood to give yourself a more stable platform. also have some help. You could get
some estimates just to see the price damage. sometimes speed and time are factors. good luck and keep us posted. C8-)February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #451134Hey,
Why didn’t you check the car more carefully before buying? It’s too late now. Here’s what I would do:
1) Check the valve cover and distributor area. To fix the distributor, you should remove the cap to check for oil inside. If there’s no oil inside, just replace the o ring. If there’s leak on the valve cover then replace it. Check the spark plugs for oil as well before the valve cover. .
2) Look in the upper timing cover for leaks and also look at the belt. If you have leaks below, some times it stick to the belt.
3) If you don’t have time to do the rear main seal right now, you could delay it with this AT-205 Reseal. This is the only products that worked with my friends’ CBs. It really works. I don’t know if it would work for you but it worked for my friends.
I have a 90 Accord LX 4AT, it has 153K miles on it and no leak any where. Your previous owner must have not follow good maintenance schedule.February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #451135Yea the rule with oil leaks is that you start high and eliminate till you get to the bottom. It looks like you’ve covered a few with the distributor ‘o’ ring as that is a common one, the valve cover is also a good place to start. Based on your pictures however if you still have a leak then perhaps you might want to check the front and rear crank seals, leave the rear crank seal for last however as that is the hardest to change. Another important note is that if you used sealant on the oil pan gasket this can actually cause a leak, let the gasket do the work and don’t apply any sealant when installing gaskets. Lastly OE gaskets are much better than the aftermarket ones so I suggest you use them whenever possible.
February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #451136Today, I decided to took of the clutch hosing cover and found out that it have been filled with oil. Should I replace the Clutch? What should I use Clutch Master or OE. Whatever, now I know that my rear main seal is bad and either cam seal or front seal is also bad 🙁 All of my finger nails turn black lol
To check for leak, Can I start the engine without the tranny on so i can see if it leaking or not?
Lastly, Can you give me some idea of a 5 speed transmission weight? I scare that if i took it off and not strong enough to put it back on lol
Thank Eric
February 22, 2012 at 11:00 am #451137I would not recommend at all using any products that claim they fix leaks. There is no such thing as a ‘mechanic in a can’.
They usually cause more problems than they solve.
February 24, 2012 at 11:00 am #451139They aren’t that heavy but as I said in my last post if you used sealant on the oil pan gasket you could have caused the leak, the oil behind the cover is quite normal with an oil pan gasket leak as the oil tends to collect in this area, also there is no ‘oil’ in the clutch assembly if it was leaking from the rear it could be the rear main seal but once again I can actually SEE the orange sealant all around the outside of your oil pan, I would suggest removing the oil pan, cleaning the area and installing a new gasket without sealant.
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