oil filter metal diafram to block torque specs

[Donnie]

hi sam or any one i have a question regarding the metal diafram that the oil filter screws onto switched over to new Engine seemed pretty tight coming off is there a spec for going back on or do i just make it tight tight gasket is on and lube in oil? is that correct and is there a torque spec for going on????????? 99 dodge slt Larrame 1500 5.9 magnum 360 thanks :silly: :side: :unsure: 🙁 🙂

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[Jake Riesser]

I always follow the German Engineering torque spec of Gutentite (pronounced good-and-tight) for those. Basically, torque it on until you think it seals, crawl out, add oil, run engine, check oil level, then rev the engine several times and crawl under to make sure nothing’s leaking. You really don’t want to overtorque it (see: don’t damage those threads). Should be tight enough to seal while being loose enough to remove after 3k, 5k, 15k, or however often you change the oil. Good luck!

– Jake R.

EDIT> btw – maybe check after a couple drives, park someplace you know the ground is devoid of oil, then come back and check to make sure oil isn’t leaking. I find it’s about 50% torque spec, and 50% experience. i.e. with my Cruze, I torque with my 1/4″ craftsman until I have to start putting a little muscle into it (a year on an oil rig will do that to you… lol). The old diesel truck I had? I’d torque until I had to put the same amount of muscle on a 3/8″ craftsman (it ran much higher oil pressures, and just seemed to like to leak around that oil filter anyways). I couldn’t really tell you a torque spec, just that those seem to keep oil loss to less than 1/16 of a quart per 3k miles on those vehicles.

[Sam]

^Agree, if you’re talking about the threaded part only it has to be hella tight, some guys put them damm things on so tight you need a 1/2 ratchet and a strap wrench to get them off. You don’t want to replace it every LOF

[EricTheCarGuy]

I don’t know the spec for that but you should be able to find it in the service manual.

[Author]

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