Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › oil burning smell
- This topic has 23 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 8 months ago by EricTheCarGuy.
-
CreatorTopic
-
March 5, 2012 at 11:00 am #451002
Greetings,
I have tried about a dozen different oil additives to end the oil burning smell I am getting but have not had any success.
-
CreatorTopic
-
AuthorReplies
-
March 7, 2012 at 11:00 am #451009
What engine is it????
If its a Chrysler and it has one of those 2.0 2.1 or 2.2s its most likely valve seals. You could have the heads redone but in 2k youll have the same problem.
Acutely I think its most of Chryslers cylinder engines seem the have this problems.
The ones i know for a fact are bad. – PT cruiser – Pacifica – Town and country (3.3 v6)The 3.3l v6/3.6 is the only good engine Chrysler even makes anymore – they all have issues. (NOT 100% sure they really make it)
The 3.3 valve seals are not that bad and sometimes not even noticeable expt for the lose of oil every 500 miles or so.Im kinda wondering why no one asked….. Type – year – make – engine make model how many miles—– sooo on.
If you have 500k on this engine a little oil smell is normal.
How many miles.
What type of car.
What engine.March 7, 2012 at 11:00 am #451010BTW. For the longest time my mons mini van (2007) dodge caravan with 70k ) was losing oil every 300k or so (About a cort or so)
Its never smoked (So i thought) Iv never paid it much mind. The other night I had to go some wear so i jumped in the van and started it. I went to back out and noticed my truck was kinda in the way soo i got out to move it. As i back down the drive way in my truck the head lights hit the tail pipe area of van (I could see blue mist) The kind you get when you start you car when its cold (Condensation smoke) Most the time its has this condensation smoke but iv never noticed the blue tint tell that night- I thought maybe for a sec it had something to do with the color of the light.. But i debunked that bc the tink is pretty much there in all light -and you can kinda smell oil.
BTW – Blue smoke = Oil = White = water/anit frezee = black = rich to much fuel or improper atomization of air fuel mixture.
March 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #451020Iv seen those repair oils do some major damage before.
I had a friend who i use to ride to work with everyday – he had a 73 chevy truck all original. He had just rebuilt the engine in it 10k ago when this happened but he had a rearmain start leaking he used some of that oil stop leak and didn like it (I lived with him at the time so i can confirm this to be true and not a bs rommer)
He did not drive it for a weak or so and went to change the oil and when we went to change the oil the drain plug hoe had to be dug clean with a screw driver.
In the midel of the oil change we got a phone call about his mom getting hurt so we just add the rest of the oil (5qts) and we left (Did not start the truck)
When we got back we checked the oil and noticed it had a funny smell/texture on the dip stick -we wiped it clean and then recheck and the texture was gone.
We started it and right away we had knocking with no oil psi.We shut it down and pulled the oil pan and found (all i can think to call it is oil moss or film) the oil pump had junk built up in it.
Crank and cam bearings had crap in them and the top of the heads looked like so one put gum in them.We noticed a few days later but the oil we drained into a pan had a thick layer of film on it.
Wanting to know what caused this we went and got a new bottle of the oil seal repair and a qt of oil.
We poured them in to a clear glass jar together with a lid – a few days later the oil had the same film (Like moss on water or such)anyway. Iv never trusted any of that stuff since.
sorry about my bad spelling and wording.March 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #451021Quoted From DieselMan:
OnThe7ThDayFord: mine is automatic; yea i think that it can last awhile. the overhaul interval is 350K in my haines book
i used some ‘rear main seal repair’ product last friday (can’t remember the name of the brand); waiting to see the results
There is no such thing as a ‘mechanic in a can’. You are probably better off buying a good quality high mileage oil (Penzoil High Mileage) that has seal conditioners in.
March 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #451022thats crazy oil moss film. i have a bad oil seal in my bike in the transmission i dont know if it was damaged from overfilling or just being old do i have to replace it or is there an oil that would help it?
March 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #451023If i had to trust something it would be lucas stop leak and that would be it.
Since we are on this topic. Ill be sliding the trans back and replacing the rearmain seal in my truck next pay check. Iv been adding a qort of soo every other day or so and im tired of it!!!
March 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #451024What the oil moss film was – Basically it was the anti leak adative was made to go around the seal or gasket and thickin and over time harden to help sill the leak.
Idk know if it was something to do with the oil we ran or if it happened with all oils just be warned it can happen….
I would be the first to jump up and help you guys if yall need it and was close. If you wanna make the drive to Oklahoma im more then wheeling to help on my next day off lol.
Please dont use that junk.
March 9, 2012 at 11:00 am #451025I agree with dreamer there is no ‘mechanic in a can’ if your engine is burning oil you need to address the issue mechanically so first assess it’s condition with a leak down test to see if you have excessive blow by, if you do then you know you need to rebuild or replace the engine, and in my opinion it’s much less expensive to just replace an engine than it is to rebuild it.
-
AuthorReplies
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.