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Ok, I have very little knowledge when it comes to scanners. So please understand. I am going to learn everything I can about them. I want to buy one so the next time I buy a used car. I am going to use it. My questions is? IF someone resets the codes. When i Hook up the scanner, will it still show the code. or should i drive the car for 30 , 50 miles.
What is a good scanner. I see them going for $30 and some for hundreds of dollars. I plan on doing my own repairs with the help of “eric the car guy”. Only because I cant afford a good mechanic. And i hate crying about the bill. I am a professional interior guy. So i know how iti feel when someone does it to me. Im sure mechanics get the same ignorant responses from customers as interior specialist. thanks for any input.
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As far as I know once the codes are cleared they’re gone unless they trigger again after driving. Some might first reappear as a “pending” code before triggering a SES light. One way to know if a car recently had its codes cleared is to verify the emission ready tests used for state inspections. Many of those codes may still read as incomplete; however depending on the age of the vehicle, certain scanners will show some of the more advanced test as being incomplete perpetually because the vehicle doesn’t perform that test. I believe a good one to look for is the down stream or secondary O2 emmision ready test.
it deponds on the scanner if you see a P1000 code means some took the battory out or reset the codes… if you want to get a cheap one you can get a ELM327 bluetooth and get a program on your phone like torque I would rec using lite first then if you want to pay the $5 for it you can… you can also get a pc and connect it with bluetooth and read some data on it and graph it…. would be good
now for the drawbacks is you cant scan airbags and abs… nor OBD1 cars… but would be good to start with
also ELM327 will not work on all cars so that might be a draw back too… ya what Im also planing on buying myself too is a automotive 8 channel scope for like $70 off of ebay so I can read live data off of sencors myselfI have 2. A OBDLink USB for basics, it cost me like $25 and uses my laptop. And a OBDlink MX Bluetooth. I work on Fiat, Dodge, Honda, Ford, Chevy. And It was worth the cost. Not all of it is about codes, but how you use Sensor Data. Understanding Mode 6 has been one of the smartest things I took the time to do. There is also low cost options for software. ForScan- Ford. Can programs remotes and clone GEM modules. AlfaOBD- Fiat, FCA, Alfa Romero. I use OBDWiz & Torque Pro on my tablet, for Honda and Chevy as I don’t see them often. I don’t see them often. I want AutoEnginuity but I think it’s a wash since I don’t do it professionally.
Hello, thanks for all the responses. I seen the bluetooth ones. I want something more convient that doesnt require a phone. my price range is between $75 a-$150.00
Give a OTC Genisys a shot, Evo, or the red power button SPX. It’s a good tool. However it’s sucks on euro cars. in Canada BC I can find one for $150-900, depending on software and add-ons.
[quote=”Hairdo12″ post=175263]As far as I know once the codes are cleared they’re gone unless they trigger again after driving. Some might first reappear as a “pending” code before triggering a SES light. One way to know if a car recently had its codes cleared is to verify the emission ready tests used for state inspections. Many of those codes may still read as incomplete; however depending on the age of the vehicle, certain scanners will show some of the more advanced test as being incomplete perpetually because the vehicle doesn’t perform that test. I believe a good one to look for is the down stream or secondary O2 emmision ready test.[/quote]
Some codes only trip a DTC once so if you clear them they don’t come back.Any scanner without enhanced data capability will leave you in the dark. Some codes will only show themselves with a scan tool with enhanced OE capability. You often deal with non-emissions modules that can set codes and the cheap scanners will not show anything. Just last week, I looked over a vehicle, full shake down inspection so he could decide if it’s worth fixing. CEL was on, as well as the VSC lights(Toyota). vAutozone scanned it, and only saw one code, and they speculated that the VSC was on due to the PCM code(it can do that). I do a complete system scan, and find 4 current faults and a pending fault in the PCM, and 3 more faults in the ABS module. That’s about how useful those cheap scanners are. Now when we get a vehicle in for a pre-purchase inspection, I play detective(you have to in this business) and start snooping. I check for codes, then I go to the readiness monitors. If they aren’t complete, then I know the codes have either been erased recently, or power to the PCM has been interrupted(intentional maliciousness or accidental). If it is a ford product and OBDII, then you get a P1000 until the monitors complete. In Denver, when you go for an emissions test, ’05 and newer, they are looking for completed monitors. Used car lots who play the erase game get into a bind as it has to pass first. Now the newest vehicles out there have a mode$10. That keeps codes stored until the tests have reran and self cleared. You can’t purge them. Depending on the year of vehicle you are looking to buy, an old OTC genisys platform may be the way to go, though they were not all that great to begin with.
[quote=”streetglideok” post=176377]Any scanner without enhanced data capability will leave you in the dark. Some codes will only show themselves with a scan tool with enhanced OE capability. You often deal with non-emissions modules that can set codes and the cheap scanners will not show anything. Just last week, I looked over a vehicle, full shake down inspection so he could decide if it’s worth fixing. CEL was on, as well as the VSC lights(Toyota). vAutozone scanned it, and only saw one code, and they speculated that the VSC was on due to the PCM code(it can do that). I do a complete system scan, and find 4 current faults and a pending fault in the PCM, and 3 more faults in the ABS module. That’s about how useful those cheap scanners are. Now when we get a vehicle in for a pre-purchase inspection, I play detective(you have to in this business) and start snooping. I check for codes, then I go to the readiness monitors. If they aren’t complete, then I know the codes have either been erased recently, or power to the PCM has been interrupted(intentional maliciousness or accidental). If it is a ford product and OBDII, then you get a P1000 until the monitors complete. In Denver, when you go for an emissions test, ’05 and newer, they are looking for completed monitors. Used car lots who play the erase game get into a bind as it has to pass first. Now the newest vehicles out there have a mode$10. That keeps codes stored until the tests have reran and self cleared. You can’t purge them. Depending on the year of vehicle you are looking to buy, an old OTC genisys platform may be the way to go, though they were not all that great to begin with.[/quote]
There a few different types of codes. If It’s a Detonation Sensor you probably could clear it by just disconnecting the (-) battery cable. But enhanced scanning or vehicle make specific scanning like a tech II for GM may pick it up as a generic code scanner may not.
I had a P0325 that cleared by it’s self. Auto Zone didn’t pick it up after that but then I plugged in with Nissan software and there it was P0325. It’s only a one trip DTC so it only trips it once. So unless it keeps tripping a DTC it eventually just goes out after the battery gets disconnected. Right?If you disconnect the battery long enough to discharge the internal capacitors, and its not so new that it has mode$10, then it erases the codes, resets the trip monitors and some or all adaptive strategies. If it is a single trip fault, that means it only has to set the fault during one trip cycle to turn on the CEL. Being it is a Nissan, it likely needs knock sensors and possibly the subharness. IIRC they were made by the same company that made Subaru knock sensors, total garbage. It may clear itself after X amount of trips without a fault set. Unless you fix the problem, the code will return. Now depending on the year and model, Nissan programmed their modules to not turn on the CEL with a P0325. That’s how bad their sensors were. Technically, an OBDII compliant code reader should pull P codes up to p0999. Reality is, they sometimes do, sometimes don’t. P1000 gets some interesting responses.
I used to work at AAP for a few years and we had to do free check engine light scans all day every day. For that, we didn’t have anything special, just an Actron scanner pulled right off the shelf. It took care of the basics and withstood heavy daily use for about two years. They have two or three in the $60 to $100 range, including the one I own myself (pre-Bosch buyout, I believe).
A good friend of mine uses a $20 phone app one, but I am not a fan of that or any of the phone ones I’ve seen. I’m sure there are good ones out there, though.
I’m also looking for a new scanner. My current one is from Harbor Freight. It is currently on sale for $99.00 and does graphing, ABS and transmission diagnostics. I really like it but am now looking at ones that will allow device testing. Most scanners will pickup distance traveled since OBD2 reset. Mine displays in English or Metric units.
Depends on what you’re wanting to do. Big difference between a scan tool and a code reader, which it sounds to me most here are referring to.
Yep, huge difference between a code reader and a scan tool. Code readers are just that, they kind of half hazardly read codes. A scan tool is what you may use to diagnose an issue. If you want to read codes to scribble down numbers, a code reader may work, may is the key word. If you want to solve issues in a vehicle, then a scan tool is a must. The other day we had a Ford come in with no reverse light on one side. Bulb was burned out, and replaced it. In order to get the light to work again, a scan tool had to be used to clear the fault code for the light failure, and then, and only then would the light work. A code reader would not have worked, as they typically can not access a lot of body modules.
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