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I watched ericthecarguy’s video about checking the catalytic converter. I set my scangauge two up so I could monitor my o2 readings (0-99%) they all seemed to be bouncing around a lot but bank 2 sensor 2 seemed the worst bouncing around from 0 to about 80 fairly quick the rest were closer together usually + or – about 20 what should I conclude? I have no codes set or pending ones however my cat test on my obd2 scanner was having a hard time finishing. Also the exhaust is dual one pipe out each side there looks like a lot more exhaust coming out of bank 1 than the passenger side.
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Your double end pipe does not affect your exhaust pressure at all between you O2 sensors. Your o2 sensor can be dirty or worst thing loose wire connection. O2 sensor produce electricity when they are heated after minimum 5 minutes. If your o2 sensor is dirty, you can use the easier way ( buy a 1/4 Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and fill 40 milliliter each fill up tanks (empty to full). Or the riskiest harder way is to use a torch, lither and burn the exes burn oil deposit on It whit a pull and push movement on the torch for maximum 5 minutes. More then 5 minutes, the sensor will be broken. At the end, you can buy new O2 sensor 100us $ each and replace them.
You might take the next step and take the temperature of the catalytic converter to see if it’s functioning properly. Sometimes it’s hard to tell on a scanner if you’re not familiar with what you’re looking at. Those inferred thermometers aren’t that expensive and you can use them for many things besides checking catalytic converter temps.
Yeah, I think I’ll look into getting one. Now I’m starting to suspect the distributor. I jus started another post on it but either way the cats and sensors probably have 215000 miles on them so it wouldn’t hurt to check em
Today I noticed my o2 sensor wire was hanging down under my truck ( it had fell down fairly often since i got the truck) and while I was under there I decided to beat on my catalytic converters and see if there were any loose chunks in in them. And in one there is just what sounds like little pieces rattling around and the other one sounds solid as far as pieces rattling. I don’t think the o2 sensors have ever been replaced nor the cats. But I also don’t have any codes for It and the truck seems to run fine.
There is now emissions testing or anything here.
Also I resolved the gas smell in my exhaust it was the distributor shaft causing a missfire sometimes. The motor runs tons better now and seems alot quieter.
When your O2 sensor was “hanging” was it disconnected?
Downstream O2 Sensors don’t provide driveability information like the upstream A/F sensors….
If you are not getting a code you may be just lucky, or the ECU has not been programmed to throw a an inefficiency problem code based upon just one downstream O2 sensor. Based upon your scan, your B2 O2 is jumping around a lot, which when in closed loop should trigger an inefficient Catalyst code…
IMHO…Since you are in a non-test state, and you are not getting a CEL, then let the good times roll and remember sometimes it is better to be lucky than good!
Cheers
KarlI plan on getting a temperature gun and looking at the cat, however in my dinky little down they don’t seem to exist although I know my old agriculture teacher has one so maybe ill to talk to him.
Today I decided to use my scan gauge two that gives Map sensor readings and if I’m not mistaking map is the opposite of a vaacuum test like in Eric’s video about using a vacuum gauge to find a plugged exhaust. But the map readings should work in fairly the same way right?
I got 3.4 at idle and abut 4.5 when revved to 2000 rpm but I have also seen it like up in 11 area but I didn’t take note of when. Now I’m trying to figure out what those numbers mean.
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