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Newest little problem is more nuisance than anything. Two times now (ie random – two weeks apart), when trying to start when engine is still warm, car will start, run for 5-10 seconds then just cut off. Then it will not fire up again. To get it to start, I have disconnected the negative battery cable from the battery, checked the rotor connection, waited 10-15 minutes (the longer the better), and then it will start. My pro mechanic friend thinks the battery cables could be the issue (they both have replacement connectors at the battery and wiring is a little sloppy. So I’m probably replacing both of those next. Turns over great, just absolutely no fire (so seems electrical for sure). If I keep cranking I think I faintly smell gas which also makes me think it’s an electrical problem. I got the car with goal of fixing this stuff myself (when possible). Never done it, but figure I can replace the battery cables (advice and cautions on doing this are also welcome). What would be your list of things to check and in what order? Thanks!!
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I actually like Advance stuff and my last post was not to say something bad about them. They offer varying levels of price which can equate to varying levels of qualify for the “same” part. In other words, I could have purchased a “better” unit from Advance but I choose to get the cheapest one they had. And it might not be the BWD part if the problem continues even with the Motorcraft part.
Good news so far. The new Motorcraft Ignition Control Module seems to be the fix. No more rough idle, no more no starts, and has not cut off on its own. I’m hoping (praying)that did the job. If so, then I’ll be on to some other projects with the same car. But I’m not claiming “victory” over this issue of no starts for at least another week.
Sometimes the genuine parts are the fix. I’ve seen it several times. Especially with electrical parts.
Keep us posted if things change.
This is one where it would have been nice to carry diagnostic equipment with you and look for what is missing the next time the problem happens. Some tools are inexpensive, like an inductive spark tester, though it would help to have two people at hand, to test while turning the engine over. But I do understand the unsatisfying practicality of just replacing suspect parts in order of increasing cost.
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