- This topic has 20 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 7 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Newest little problem is more nuisance than anything. Two times now (ie random – two weeks apart), when trying to start when engine is still warm, car will start, run for 5-10 seconds then just cut off. Then it will not fire up again. To get it to start, I have disconnected the negative battery cable from the battery, checked the rotor connection, waited 10-15 minutes (the longer the better), and then it will start. My pro mechanic friend thinks the battery cables could be the issue (they both have replacement connectors at the battery and wiring is a little sloppy. So I’m probably replacing both of those next. Turns over great, just absolutely no fire (so seems electrical for sure). If I keep cranking I think I faintly smell gas which also makes me think it’s an electrical problem. I got the car with goal of fixing this stuff myself (when possible). Never done it, but figure I can replace the battery cables (advice and cautions on doing this are also welcome). What would be your list of things to check and in what order? Thanks!!
-
Replies
-
When it won’t start follow the diagnosis supplied by Eric.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems?start=2#CrankNoStart
Yes that article covers the basics of what to look for in situations like this.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks. I have reviewed the written material and the video(s). The “fun” part is the “random” part – most of the time, it starts and runs fine (still no smooth but ok). Yesterday was the 2nd random no start. I was at my doctor’s office for routine check, came out, car ran for 5-10 seconds that cut off. And would not restart. Got ride home from my wife (she is a good egg) and went back with tools. Did routine as described in 1st post, then on 2nd attempt after my routine, it started. Ran find going home. And currently starts every time. Since my pro friend does not looks of battery cables, replacing them (or rebuilding them) is my next step. And yes, I’m staying dirty! 🙂
You can check the resistance, and the voltage drop, of those cables as shown in the starter testing video in the article I posted for you. That may save you a bit of money if that’s not the issue.
Been tracking down issue. Still had occasional no start plus poor idle and random miss. Everything seems “good” but got to ignition control module and seemed to have an issue. Had a coupon for major discount so bought replacement unit. Easy install, ran great, miss is gone, idle better 🙂 . Parked and waited, got another no start 🙁 . Pro friend felt probably ignition switch issue. So, while engine running moved switch (no enough to engage starter)(it has a lot of play) and sure enough, I could make the engine run rough and even stall. Could not get the no start but had enough issues that replacing ignition switch plus checking wiring related to such is next. Will have shop check the cats – pro friend betting cats are bad due to engine miss issue and having to deal with too much raw gas :pinch: . He feels that probably reason not much power. So…. pleased miss is gone and obvious that ignition switch is at least part of the problem.
Ok, I’m still learning. Key assembly is not switch. Considering prior owner has definite messed with wiring and switch, and key assembly is worn out too, I’ll have all this done by someone that knows more than me. Moving the key assembly while engine is running apparently moves wiring going to actual switch so car needs new key assembly (which seems easy to do) but also needs to have wiring checked (and switch checked) and regarding that issue, I really have no idea what I am doing so time to call in a pro.
And I don’t hang upside down in front seat like I used to do 40 years ago (back in the days of installing CB radios and aftermarket tape decks. I’ll let someone younger (and thinner) do that for me this time!
Thanks. I think I’m making progress. (Of course, what’s next to go?).
But it’s been fun to try to figure it all out. And it remains fun. The local parts house is also having fun too.Put in new ignition key cylinder and new switch. It needed that anyway. Started fine (for a while) and then another no start. This time my mechanic saw it happen. Just a little later, he was going to roll it into his shop and he tried to start it, and it started. So, he is going to hang on to it until he gets a no start and then trace the problem down (the right way). He has the equipment to do it right. I just hope he can get another no start to happen without it having to sit at his shop too long and take space he needs for other customers. The joys of intermittent problems.
Try cleaning the IAC Valve. 5.0 are notroious for dirty IAC. They cause a huge loss of power and no start conditions. Plus its free and easy.
Thanks for idea. Actually on a prior topic about this car, I did that. Funny thing is when that was done did not have random no start. Random no start is a “new” problem that has come up in last 30-45 days. I’ll post again when we figure this out. I’ve turned it over to good friend who is also pro machanic (and yes, I pay him to work on my car).
More fun. 16 days ago replaced the Ignition Control Module with new BWD from Advance. Got rid of miss (see prior posts) but random no start continued. My mechanic thinks it’s still the Ignition Control Module so we put in Motorcraft today. Car does not miss, cut off, and so far no random no starts. So my “fix” with the Ignition Control Module could prove correct, and the new BWD unit could be defective OR there is still something else. Based on checking “everything,” the only thing not done (if the Motorcraft ICM does not fix the problem) is to replace the ECM. It’s the only thing left (we think)(and when I say “we” I have pros helping at this point).
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.