Noise while not breaking and tire missing tread

[Christian]

My 2000 Honda Accord Coupe EX 4 Cylinder with 153,6XX miles is making a sound from the passengers side of the vehicle. I am not able to identify if it is coming from the front or the rear. The sound is more pronounced when traveling forward than in reverse(I don’t think it is just because I was going slower in reverse than I would forward) and goes away as soon as light pressure is applied to the break pedal. The sound changes I think after hitting a bump however I am not certain what it causing it to change. Sometimes it sounds like a screech/scrape(see first video) and sometimes it sounds more like a fast ratcheting sound. The sound does change SLIGHTLY in a corner. Any ideas as to what could be the cause or the next steps in troubleshooting this issue?

I have jacked up the car and attempted to spin both the front and rear tire/wheel on the passenger side with the car in park and the ebrake on. The rear tire I was not able to spin. The front tire I was about to spin a partial turn, it makes a noise in one direction(see second video). There is no side to side or in and out play on the rear tire with it in the air and lug nuts secured, I forgot to check the front.

I do not know how long it has been doing this as it is not loud enough to hear with the A/C,radio on and windows closed. I had all 4 tires balanced under Sears warranty after I got too close to a curb due to a box truck with giant mirrors in the other lane not leaving enough room and knocked off the passenger side front wheel weight as well as curb rashing the rim and I do not think it was doing it then.

Something else I noticed, there are two chunks of tread missing from the front passenger side tire. The tire is a BF Goodrich Advantage T/A 195/65/R15 H purchased new from Sears 6 months ago and has less than 5,000 miles on it. I would like to know the following:
Is this safe to drive on?
Is it likely to have a significant effect of performance?
Is it likely to be covered under either the manufacturer warranty or Sears road hazard warranty?
Possible causes?

Tire photos: http://imgur.com/a/SqXsP

Driving: http://sendvid.com/j9sn0lj4
The noise was not picked up well at all on camera, you will have to listen closely.
I tapped the breaks 3 times somewhere around 3 seconds in to show that the noise stops under breaking
I accelerated to show that it increases with speed
I hit the breaks harder a little while after accelerating

Spinning FR wheel: http://sendvid.com/hirmvf3u

It may be worth nothing that the tires on the back of the car are also Advantage T/A, they are 10,000 miles older and are T speed rating. When I got this set of tires I had just purchased the car and it the tires that came on the rear had like 2.5/32 left and one went flat, I need to drive into the city the next morning and didn’t want to do it on the spare and that is what they had in stock. They also didn’t tell me it was not the correct speed rating for the car and I didn’t even know at this point that speed ratings existed. When I purchased the other set I ordered the correct tires online and had them shipped to the store.

Topic

[Mike]

Try to get that tire replaced under warranty. I wouldn’t consider it safe to drive on.

This page explains speed ratings. Although the speed ratings between your front and rear tires don’t match, they differ by only 12 mph, and I doubt you’re going more than 118 mph in your car anyway. Right now the speed rating of your damaged tire doesn’t matter at all. The damage nullifies your speed rating.

[Mike]

You really have to isolate it to a single wheel before proceeding .
Roll down your passenger’s side windows–front & back, and drive past parked cars. You will hear the sound loudest when you just start to pass a car if it’s the front and if loudest when you’re almost past, it is the rear.
As for what is making the sound, when you post a video with sound that even you can’t hear well—and you are most familiar with what noises your car normally makes—it’s nearly impossible for anyone else to figure out what noise you’re concerned about.
The front end has all the steering and more suspension parts than the rear, so you are more likely to have a worn out part in the front.

Last I heard, Sears does not charge to check your car and diagnose the problem, whether the noise is from the brakes or the suspension.
As for missing chunks of the tire, it appears that the tire was cut into by debris on the road.
Unless you paid for road hazard protection, you are unlikely to get a free or pro-rated tire.

[Christian]

Using Bonnieman’s method I was able to identify that the sound was coming from the front passenger side and most likely from the breaks.
I picked up some Sil-Glyde brake lubricant and put new grease on the slide pins and contract points. While this did not fix the issue I am fairly certain I have found the issue. Have a look at these photos: http://imgur.com/a/4JgOy

It appears that one of the pads is significantly more worn down than the other and even more alarmingly I am not certain the two pads are the same. One of the pads has a line in the middle not seen on the other, the numbers on the pads don’t match. I purchased this car in November of 2014 and have only put 15,000 Miles on it so I don’t know who last serviced the brakes or when they were last serviced.

Here is a better video of the noise: http://sendvid.com/dobd2y7u

Am I correct in assuming that I should replace that rotor, get a new set of pads for the front, verify their is not an issue with a pad dragging, and then inspect the the rear brakes as well? They just opened an O’riley’s near me and I have heard they can machine rotors so I will probably bring in the driver’s side rotor and have it checked.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to read my thread, I will keep you posted on the tires.

ps This car has does not have the ability to open the rear windows because it’s a coupe.

[Rob]

its up to you if you want to try and have it cut…. it might be warped and might fail the cut… depanding on the tech that cuts it… might want to see how much new ones are and see if its worth it…. but it might be under spec to be able to be cut…. I would replace the pins, pin boots, pads and you have to figure out about the rotors what you want to do with them… also check out the caliper pison and boot, and dont forget to lub up those pins… also check to make sure the new ones go in smothy in/out because you might also have a problem with the hole

[Christian]

I had a look and I turns out I can get a whole rebuilt caliper for $40 (not including core deposit), for that price I’ll just get two rebuilt calipers and a set of rotors so I don’t have to worry about it. I’ll probably also take the opportunity to paint the new calipers blue or red.

[Rob]

[quote=”FluxBacon” post=174294]I had a look and I turns out I can get a whole rebuilt caliper for $40 (not including core deposit), for that price I’ll just get two rebuilt calipers and a set of rotors so I don’t have to worry about it. I’ll probably also take the opportunity to paint the new calipers blue or red.[/quote]
just make sure you get paint rated for clipers. not reg paint…

[Mike]

Glad you found my advice helpful.
The pad wear you’ve found was definitely the result of the caliper not sliding.
That’s why the inner pad is so worn and the outer pad has little wear.
They are most likely the same brand pads, the inner has simply worn down below the wear indicator groove that is still present on the outer pad.
The numbers don’t match because one is designed to be the inner and the other the outer.
You can see that the wear warning clip has been doing its job of contacting the rotor and squeaking without the brakes applied.
Those rotors are toast.
Get 2 new ones and make sure you clean off the protective coating with some brake cleaner before you install them.
Your best bang for the buck would be a good set of fully loaded calipers( not semi loaded).
They come assembled with new pads and include the caliper brackets, caliper pins and dust boots for the pins.

It’s worth watching this ETCG video on how to replace the brakes https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems?start=3#DiscBrakeService

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[Author]

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