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eric made a video on how to find suspension noises, I tried to post a link but for some reason I cant.
Thanks, I found the video. It will be useful but I am pretty sure it’s drivetrain rather than suspension as the noise increases and decreases with rotation. I’ve checked for play already, I think I’ll need to check the cv joint (not sure what to look for there, driving in either lock makes no difference) and the wheel bearing.
I suspect a wheel bearing. heres a video how to diagnose itC8-)do you have hub caps on the car? you may have
something stuck in there.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdRpnK5M … plpp_video
We’ll find out if you’re right, one thing I didn’t mention for fear of skewing the diagnoses is that there there was some noise at high speed when turning left suggesting the wheel bearing, I have one on order so hopefully you’re right. I just don’t want it to be the CV joint because I’m fast running out of cash, this car is worse than my bank, grabbing money left right and center! but I love it dearly! My wife wants rid, but given that so many parts of it are brand new, I’m reluctant to sell!
Quoted From college man:
I suspect a wheel bearing. heres a video how to diagnose itC8-)do you have hub caps on the car? you may have
something stuck in there.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdRpnK5M … plpp_video
watch the video I posted. it will help you diagnose the problem how to diagnose a wheel bearing
I loaded a treadmill into the car this morning, the rope snapped and the strut sprang it open crushing my finger… no permanent damage thankfully but will take a good few days before I get back on the car properly.
The CV boot needs doing already before it splits with part waiting, the bearing also needs doing already. I am hoping the noise is the bearing as it will go when I do the repair, but if it’s likely to be the cv joint or something else entirely, I’d like to look properly while down there dismantling everything. Either way, most forums seem completely stunned by the sound even though I found other videos of people with the exact same symptom. ETCG has a good forum going here as there are a good few things to try above.
I think next step is to follow the bearing video, replace the parts I already know need replacing and if nothing else, it will rule a few things out. Probably not much point in guessing until then now.
I’m not convinced you have a bearing problem mostly because they don’t make a squeaking noise but rather a growling noise when they begin to go bad, BTW you also won’t always notice any play in the wheel when they go bad either. I would recommend checking the brake assembly in particular the backing plate as I’ve sometimes seen small bits of debris get lodged between the backing plate and rotor causing noises like that. I’ve also seen occasion where the backing plate itself will come in contact with the spinning rotor causing the noise so be sure to check that first before you go replacing wheel bearings or anything like that.
That doesn’t sound like a bearing noise to me. It’s a wierd one. Try putting the car on jacks and seeing if you can reproduce the noise. Do a good visual inspection for anything out of place.
Both an honour and a pleasure to have Eric answer directly! I’m thinking Eric Plush toy and bumper sticker to come 😉
That bearing needs doing anyway as we have a rumble on 40mph left turns so that’s a given, CV boot also. Before dismantling, will run a cold start on jack stands to see if the noise still happens. I heed your warnings Eric about running on stands, I have chocks ready which I use anyway living on a hill!
I thought the same as Eric and Beefy about debris but couldn’t find any loose bits. The weird thing is if left for a few hours, it will do this when running for 30+ seconds then gradually do away. If I park for a few minutes to an hour, I can drive off without any noise whatsoever. One of my first thoughts was a dry joint, after some driving the grease works is way through but when left cold it drains to the bottom… how logical this is I don’t know…
Given the opinions will apply my IT skills and deliberately separate the jobs so if/when it’s solved, I know why. The CV boot is first as all the parts are here ready to go, will give another inspection for debris and brakes as Eric suggested and see how we get on. Due to hand injury (and awful weather here in South Wales) this will be a few days.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and opinions; so far the best car forum I’ve used! Thank you!
No further forward, I broke my 1/2 inch tools which couldn’t stand the torque while trying to remove the hub nut so have a good friend popping by this week with his pro set… if you want to remove a hub nut or similar high-torque bolts, cheapies from ebay are just not worth bothering with! Lesson learned!
So with wheel removed, strut removed (coil spring seat rusted through damaging strut bearing, so not going anywhere until that’s replaced! Death waiting to happen!). Brake caliper and rotor removed, tie rod end detached so we have just hub, CV and ball joint (obviously not culprit). Started the engine and put it in first (manual/stick shift), and the noise was still there on jack stands! Outer CV boot still in tact but splitting so I don’t *think* anything has gotten inside, Inner cv boot is fine.
One possible clue, a loose clip means the p/s fluid is dripping slowly on the inner cv boot… again I don’t think this is the problem, but may be something someone’s heard of before?…
I think only the following are left to check fully but at this stage, I’m in totally new territory:
Outer CV joint (can inspect when I replace the boot)
Inner CV joint
Differential?
Any other bearings or bits on the drive shaft?Thanks for the update. The p/s fluid leak on the cv boot. is the boot split? see if the fluid leaked inside the boot.
keep us posted.C8-)To me it sounds more like a bearing issue, bearings can be bad and not have any play, in fact that’s what I normally find, it’s the quiet bearings that actually don’t make any noise but have plenty of play. Keep us posted on your progress.
New outer CV boot on, (those stretch boots are harder to put on than ebay make it look!) old one was fine and CV joint is fine. Bearing is siezed in the hub so walking a couple of miles to nearest mechanic with them and a few bob to switch.
– however –
In gear with no hub, the noise is still there… I’ve now completely run out of money until one of my dear clients decide my design work is actually worth paying for on time! So what’s next? I’m guessing there are inner bearings on the drive shaft? Replacing them looks really awkward and/or expensive! 🙁
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