- This topic has 10 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 10 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Okay so I’ve got a 98 Civic ex 5 speed. The car would crank but not start so I tested to see if it was the plugs, wires, etc working my way back to test the coil and ignition. there wasn’t a spark anywhere so I went ahead and replaced the distributor, plugs, and wires. Now here I sit car still not starting and no spark. Does anyone have any ideas to what else it may be?
Edit::
It’s throwing a p1298 code however that is for the alternator and I don’t believe would cause the car not to start.
-
Replies
-
First step, check voltage at your battery. Make sure you are getting enough voltage to fire the ignition system. If the battery is low, clean and tighten the connections, and charge the battery.
Next, check ALL your fuses, make sure they are good. If that all checks out, then I would test the ignition switch to make certain it is working properly, and sending voltage to the ignition system as it is supposed to be.
all the fuses are good and the battery is too. my ignition switch wasn’t getting voltage to begin with and this new one isn’t either. so I’m kinda lost at where to go from here.
If memory serves there is a fuse under the dash for the ignition circuit on that vehicle. You might want to check that as it can cause a crank no start condition. Also, in my experience aftermarket distributors for Hondas are often problems. I’m not saying that’s what’s causing the issue, but you might end up with a CEL due to that distributor in the future. More information on no starts in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Keep us posted.
There is a fuse for it and it isn’t blown or anything however I just ran the check on it for the third time today and now it’s throwing code P0100 which it wasn’t throwing earlier. Is there a possibility that the main relay could cause the car not to start? just out of curiosity where the problem is before the distributor.
It is possible for the main relay to cause a no start, in fact it’s quite common, but when that happens you normally loose fuel pressure. In the no start article I posted there are videos on main relay repair and also how to determine the cause of a no start caused by no spark on a Honda vehicle.
I strongly recommend that you do not replace the distributor sub assembly with an aftermarket unit as they are known to have issues. The only time I recommend replacement of a distributor sub assembly is when it is leaking oil internally. 98% of issues with Honda distributors are caused by coil or igniter issues in my experience and you don’t need to purchase a sub assembly to service those.
The “new” one wasn’t aftermarket my apologies for the misunderstanding it was used with a new coil and igniter. I’ve been trying to get the main relay off to test it but the bolts on there pretty good. I’ll keep you guys updated.
Before I read that I’d already unbolted it. I opened the relay and didn’t see anything obvious and tested it and the relay is good. I tested the harness and the side that goes to the fuel pump is getting power but the side that goes to the engine to give it power isn’t receiving any. I checked the fuses again and none are blown. Someone said the ignition switch itself may be bad but I doubt that where the engine is cranking but not turning over maybe there is a short between the fuse and the relay?
I got the car to start. I’m assuming the problem is the ignition switch itself I ran a hotwire to the distributor and she started right up. So temporarily until I can get a new one I’ve run the wire from the distributor to the fuse box into the fuse for the radio so when the key is turned to position 2 electricity will go to the distributor and position 3 will start the vehicle. Thank you for your assistance.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.