Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L
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September 28, 2011 at 11:00 am #450573
Hello all,
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October 5, 2011 at 11:00 am #450634
i had a buddy send me the way they were suppose to be hooked up and it is correct i am puzzled really
October 6, 2011 at 11:00 am #450635I am confused by your test results, so I would start over on the electrical tests. Turn the multimeter to the 20V range. Test the battery voltage to make sure your volt meter is working properly. Touch the red lead on the meter to the + post of the battery (black ead on meter to – post of battery. You should be reading around 12V.
Next, unplug the electrical connector(s) to the distributor. Turn the key to the II position. Touch red volt meter lead to the blk/yel wire going to the distributor. Touch the black volt meter lead to a valve cover bolt (a good ground). Do you have 12V on that wire?
Turn off key in the car. Plug in the connectors to the distributor. Remove distributor cap. Turn key back to II position. Test for voltage on the blk/yel wire that plugs into the ignition control module using the valve cover bolt as a ground. Also test for 12V on the blk/yel wire on the coil using the valve cover bolt as a ground. Let us know if you find 12V on those wires.
October 8, 2011 at 11:00 am #450636Well,
I would like to thank all that was involved in this problem shooting. Come to find out that the person that installed the new timing belt on the car before the boy bought it before me had broke the gear. They rigged the part on to some how and when i went to check it out the just fell off. That was problem one next problem when i actually just broke it down the cam was seized up by the number 4 cylinder. This is from the boy i bought it from just driving it into the ground and not caring. When i had turned it over I can only imagine what damage it done. My new thing is the block is good i don’t care to rebuild it, but can i get some power out of a “D” series engine I have heard of people rebuilding them and doing some mods and getting about 150 out of them with very lil to do other than the rebuild part. Does any one have any suggestions I am not wanting to race it just have some good pep in its step. Well everyone thank you for the help have a good night.October 9, 2011 at 11:00 am #450637Well im glad you figured out the issue.
October 10, 2011 at 11:00 am #450638Ok, I know there is a lot of Honda people out there but i can’t seem to get anyone to respond like I do on this website. I have a Honda Civic DX 1.5 it has the D15B2 engine in it. What I am trying to accomplish is this: Ensure the block does not need to be “trued” if so accomplish same. Bore block out 20-30 depending on my options. Have the Cam redone ( was told it was one of the better cams to have.) Have the block cleaned up oil gulleys and all some places here don’t do that. Put a MSD igniton, distributor cap and rotor on 8.5mm spark plug wires and the new plugs (reconmended through that site. Have a Skunk2 Intake manifold, Throtle body, cam gear, and pulleys. Pistons by JE ( here is the question what size pistons?) A DE Header. Koyo radiator and hoses, ACT Flywheel, ACT clutch, ACT Water Pump, Dual fans. I am not racing it just some pep in my step if you will If this is a bad setup please let me know or if you know some where for me to find more info other than honda-tech.com (— no help. Thanks for any and all replys.
October 11, 2011 at 11:00 am #450641Ok, so here is my question If i bore my engine .002 which is 20,000 thousandsths that adds .5 mm to my bore? If so that changes my 75mm t0 a 75.5 does that change the stroke? If so how would that change it? Stock rod length is 134mm Compression is 9.2:1 bore is 75mm and stroke is 84.5mm so if I change that what about the compression?
October 11, 2011 at 11:00 am #450642You can’t change stroke by changing bore size, the only way to change stroke is to change out the crank shaft or connecting rods. Compression ratio will change if you change the pistion type or stroke only, not if you make the bore bigger that just creates more volume inside the cylinder.
October 11, 2011 at 11:00 am #450639October 11, 2011 at 11:00 am #450640that site did not help people just tell me i am on crack any other help
October 12, 2011 at 11:00 am #450643http://enginemaniac.blogspot.com/2009/11/my-d15b2-na-build.html?showComment=1318377933334#c373289234432221406
this build is similar to what i am talking about but what parts should i use to do the this? Is this person’s set up good?October 12, 2011 at 11:00 am #450644There is only one word i have to say to make little 4 bangers have more power ( turbo) WwhhooosssHH.T)
October 12, 2011 at 11:00 am #450645a lot of people tell me to drop my engine and go with a “B” series engine, but i don’t have the 1899 that hmotors is selling them for. The guy that has done what I want to do is getting the same horse power for the “D” series engine that the “B” are getting. He did it for the roughly the same price. People just don’t believe in them. My problem is that i don’t know what parts he used exactly and he won’t respond to my pm or emails. So i need so good guiedence on this if someone would be so kind to help a noob out.
October 12, 2011 at 11:00 am #450646I wish i could help you out more but ive never tried to ‘upgrade’ a Honda motor. All my experience is with Ford 302’s, (and thats fading away now seeing i sold my ‘stangs) sorry S:(
October 13, 2011 at 11:00 am #450647I have had several stangs my first was a t72 mach 2 I enjoyed it but thanks dreamer
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