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Heck, if we are guessing let’s throw a distributor at it, That would be the best educated guess I know of not to mention the most popular problem ever encountered with hondas
By guessing a distributor we are replacing the cam sensor, crank sensor, ignition module(aka igniter) and ignition coil.
We also haven’t determined that the timing belt is or is not broke either..
Crank no start possible causes=
fuel pump, restricted fuel flow, low compression, no compression,broken timing belt, broken wiring, no fire, no injection pulse, bad magnetic pick up for cam and crank signal references,lack of intake air, shorted fuel injector, open fuel injector,broken pin in distributor gear, bad pcm, blown fuse, bad main relay, distributor cap & rotor, flooded with gas, spark plugs, I mean really!?!?
And the list goes on and on!
Well jacob, i’m sorry i insulted your God-like knowledge, i was just trying to help by eliminating one problem at a time.
ok that has been done and the battery is new as well the starter is good and new as well the spark plug and wires distributor cap and rotor are all new the positive and negative post on the ignition coil are not getting power chased the wires to the fuse panel under the hood all were good looked at the fuse panel under the dash missing lot of fuses but don’t have a owners manual nor a book and i can’t find them oh and the main relay is new and good the old one was bad
Is there spark coming from the spark plug wires?
Is there an injection pulse?
Is the camshaft turning?
The Check Engine/PGM-FI warning lamp should be illuminated for approximately 2 seconds after the ignition switch is placed in the ON position as a bulb check. After approximately 2 seconds, the lamp should go OFF. If lamp remains ON, a problem in the Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) System is indicated and a code is stored in the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) memory. After diagnosis and repair, the PGM-FI ECU memory can be cleared by disconnecting the battery ground cable for approximately 10 seconds.TDC/CRANK/CYL Sensor
This sensor, contained in the distributor housing, consists of three rotors, TDC, CRANK, and CYL, there associated pickup coils, and a common shaft. Since the rotors are coupled to the cam shaft, they turn together as a unit as the cam shaft rotates.
The CRANK sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects engine rpm. The TDC sensor determines ignition timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank angle is abnormal. The CYL sensor detects the position of No. 1 cylinder for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder.
Thank you very much for this maybe I can find out what is going on there is two wires that are bare and i have no clue where they go to so maybe i can check it out if you guys realy are bored text me some help lol for the garage is small and the laptop won’t go down and lord knows i need help 662 664 2871 thanks for all the help
OK all the fuses are what they are suppose to be and still no power to the coil so crap i am adding a pic of the wires that are just dangling under the dash behind the fuse panel if i knew what they were and where they went it might help a lot
to answer your question there was no spark at the plug none at the distributor and nonthing from the coil no power at the coil to produce a spark.
This is the only diagram I could find with a blue and black wire inside the cockpit. Do all the power windows work?
Here is the diagram of the main relay.
I would run through this tree with a simple test light or preferably a dvom.
1. Verify that the Black/Yellow (BLK/YEL) wire on the igniter has battery voltage Key On Engine Off (KOEO). Verify that the coil positive and negative has battery voltage KOEO.
2. Test the White (WHT) wire at the igniter. It should have 9 to 12 volts produced by the igniter. If there is no voltage, and the igniter has power and the distributor and igniter are grounded, then the igniter is faulty. If the WHT wire has the correct voltage, the Engine Control Module (ECM) pulses the voltage to ground so spark will occur.
3. Test the signal on the WHT wire with a scope or a dwell meter. The signal should be a square wave signal or 10 to 14 degrees of dwell on a 4-cylinder scale. If the signal is good, look for a trigger signal on coil negative. A jumper wire can be used to manually try and trigger spark, back probe and pulse ground on the WHT wire or terminal of the igniter. The igniter should pulse coil negative and spark should occur. If there is no spark, check for a trigger signal on coil negative. If there is no trigger signal, the igniter and coil will need to be replaced
Given that wire was hanging under the dash I’m wondering if it goes to the clutch switch, if it does it might be disabeling the ignition but come to think of it I don’t believe it would crank at all so scratch that. In my expereince with Honda no starts it’s almost always someting that’s simple so try not to overcomplicate the issue. The most common cause of no power to the coil that I’ve found is a blown fuse in the underdash fuse box, I can’t remember which one but I think it’s a 10A, I’ve also seen problems with the spade connectors of the fuse not making contact inside the fuse box itself. In addition I’ve seen ALL KINDS of problems where an aftermarket alarm or remote start systems so if you have any of that or had any of that I would be going over those as well. BTW the only way the main realy can cause a no spark is if it’s not powering up the ECU so if you have a no spark situation I would not worry about the main relay unless you don’t have power going to the computer. Lastly don’t forget to check the ignition switch itself as a failure of the electrical portion is a known problem on Honda’s, you can do a quick check by pulling down the lower steering cover and looking for melted solder on the back of it.
Quoted From str8mennis:
so the distributor is bad or the ignitor is bad the whose set is 190 and the ignitor is 50 at autozone and well i don’t have the money us military folk don’t make much so maybe next payday and what do i do about the wires under the dash it is a blue wire with a black stripe on it and a black wire with a silver mark around it
There is a catch 20 that I am doing here and the catch is either the igniter, tdc sensor or crank sensor is bad one of the three. The catch is that in order to go forward and isolate which one has failed you need an oscilloscope and perform wave form diagnostics on those.
Doesn’t really matter I would replace the whole thing because they are all just as old as the failed component and the complete deal will refresh the whole ignition system and magnetic pick ups.
all i have is a mulitmeter but i don’t know how to do most of the things it can do lol I will try to get one
That is fine, that will work.
I wan’t you to turn the key on in the run position and switch the dvom to 12 volts dc and put the black lead to battery negative and proble the red lead to the black/yellow wire at the distributor at the connector with the connecter still pluged together and tell me if there is voltage and exactly what voltage you have.
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