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Hey all,
My car a 1989 mazda 323. Its carbureted and has a 1.5L in it. It runs well except when i get my foot down. If im accelerating at maybe 20% throttle and i decide depress it to 80% throttle lets say, The rpm would increase but very slowly and i dont get much more power than i would have if i was at 20%. If i have weight in the car its even worse or if the AC is on.The engine just gives a deeper sound. I have adjusted the idle mixture for best vacuum, the acclerator pump and the float level in the carb. I am not sure if it is running lean or rich but i can say that fuel economy is poor. The carburetor has original jets, and was rebuilt like 2 years ago.
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If you rev the car at idle does it feel strong/powerful?
Can you see fuel spraying in the carb when you do the rev.
choke fully open?http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
If u mean in neutral and revving, yes it does. when i look down in d carb there is fuel spraying while i pull the throttle. And the choke is fully open for sure because its a manual choke, no fancy bimetallic strip or electrical solenoids. Another thing is i smell gas on the highway when i try to acceleration fast.
Oh an i have read eric’s article. Also there is no vacuum leak.This one is really kinda funny i check alot of stuff.
Exactly right?? I was thinking the same thing. I dont have an exhaust back pressure gauge but Eric’s way with the vacuum gauge i can do, ill do it and see what i come up with. The engine doesnt burn a drop of oil, and i use full synthetic. There is no cat in this car. they didnt come with it back then in my country, but there are 2 resonators and a muffler.
The cat is usually where this problem is encountered. However I have heard of double wall exhaust piping. The inner wall rusts out and collapses. Usually, if double wall piping is used it is the pipe connected to the exhaust manifold.
Ok people
I put a vacuum gauge on it and held the engine rpms to about 2500 and it held the vacuum. So I now I have no idea what is going onFrom the repair info, some of these cars had points ignition and some had electronic. Checking the points uses a weight scale according to the info. What about your vacuum advance, checked it with a hand vacuum pump? Timing?
I have the E5 engine with the electronic ignition, thankfully. I do have another distributor lying around that i can swap the module over to and install if anything. I know that my timing is not too accurate but it is close. I do not have a timing light unfortunately but i can at least static time it. I also do not have access to a hand vacuum pump. They just dont sell those things alot in my country. What do you think i should do?? I have not tinkered to much with the timing.
You did say you had a vacuum gauge, T it in the line to the vacuum advance and see if you have vacuum at different rpm’s. Now this is going to sound silly, but the only way I know of checking if the advance is working is to pull another vehicle up close and with a long piece of vacuum hose from a running car, hook it too your vac advance and watch the inside of the dist. for movement.. Crazy? Yep. Now that you say “In my country” no wonder my service info does not even list that car with that engine and a carb. Have you checked fuel pressure?
Ok, so i connected the vacuum gauge to the top hose first and it read just like manifold vacuum. Then i connected it to the second line and it read no vacuum at idle and it increased when i increased the rpms. I kno that advance can be checked with a timing light and while increasing the rpms. i just dont have a timing light. and yeah you may get information on the car with a 1.6 injected engine but the ones with the carb came to mine with the 1.3 and some swapped to the 1.5 which is what i have.
That really makes it tough diagnosing and repairing, but you seem to be ready for the job. In cases like yours, One thing I have done is find another vehicle similiar, and see if I can take get some idea of hose routing, vacuum readings, etc, especially if its a friends car. Not much help but keep at it.
Well the hoses are connected pretty much where they were since i bought the car, but worth a check. What i did lately is advance the timing on the distributor and the car felt much better and got faster but the engine pinged, so i retarded it back to the original. I’ll attempt to get the engine timed. it might solve the no power at high rpms but will it solve my poor mpg?. Oh and one other clue i dont remember giving was that when i dont get low power at high rpms i also get the smell of gas. and gas stains the my fuel bowl vents and throat before the venturi. idk if it will give another clue.
So you advanced the timing and you got better performance, but detonation along with it sounding like its running rich. Not knowing how this car is set up, wondering if the distributer has sticking advance weights, that could cause detonation or carbon buildup in the cylinders, or the engine just needs a higher octane fuel? Maybe a different heat range sparkplug. I remember Fords back in the 70’s and others you could use a small allen wrench and insert in in the vacuum advance port on the dist and turn it and change the total advance a little to help the detonation. You may need to do some adjusting on the carb also when you advance the timing to deal with the rich condition.
Hmmm, do you think i should swap out my distributor with another that i have then?? also i saw my pcv valve was leaking oil so i changed it like yesterday cant say if it made a difference yet but that could mean that there is alot of carbon buildup in d engine. I uploaded a haynes manual and pictures of the distributor. i believe that screw on top of it is what u were refering to.
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