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Hello people,I’m new to the forum here, Been a fan of ETCG for quite some time.I know he urges people to post car problem questions here,Here’s my Issue….
I have an 04 Chevy Silverado,5.3 vortec,Automatic trans,95K miles.
Recently while driving the truck to my local corner store,I shut it off,
Came back out minutes later and when you turn the key nothing happens.
I tried jump starting it to no avail,I hit the starter while someone
else was trying to start it,That didn’t work either.Had AAA come out,They tested the battery,Test came back “Good” with 12.2V,
They also beat the hell out of the starter trying to get it to start,They towed it back to my place.A few hours later,I went out to try to start it for the hell of it,Sure enough it fired right up? What gives? :blink: I’ve been driving the truck the last couple days,It starts right up like normal,except i let it idle when i go somewhere so i don’t get stranded again.
Tried to start my truck again today,And sure enough its doing the same exact thing,No crank,No start 🙁
What do you guys think it might be? Whats odd is the starter was replaced recently by my mechanic at a shop,He was doing a different repair on the truck,One of the tech’s accidentally dropped my starter and broke it,They put a new starter in but im not sure if its a cheapo rebuilt or what. Any help would be appreciated,Thanks.
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I believe i have heard a “Click” noise yes when trying to start it. What does that point to? Thanks for commenting.
it couldcbe a loose wire or corrosion on them which would cause the irratic start no start scenario.
There is an established protocol when dealing with no start issues, yours specifically being “no start/no crank.” Below are videos that might help you out with your diagnostic testing:
Additionally, I have attached the starting schematic for your vehicle that I got from bbbind.com. I have identified some of the major players involved in your starting system:
- IGN E fuse, 10 amp
- Park/Neutral/Position (PNP) switch for automatics
- Clutch Start Switch for manual transmissions
- Starter Relay
- Left Battery
- Right Battery
- Junction Block
- Ignition Switch
- Powertrain Control Module
- Crank Fuse, 10 amp
- Starter Solenoid
- Starter
All the above components can be tested. All the above components can contribute to a no start/no crank condition. IF you get power to the ‘S’ terminal of your starter when the key is turned to ‘Start’ then you can eliminate all the above as a possibility and focus more on other things, like your solenoid and starter. Below are a couple of videos that might help you with an electrical diagnosis:
Keep in mind with a no start/no crank the problem could also be mechanical, so be prepared to consider a wide range of possibilities.
TSB’s
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=121993
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=126421
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=135587Not Related
Just speaking from my own personal experience, the last no start/no crank i dealt with was was on a chevy malibu and was due to a PCM not recieving the request to start the engine. This was most likely due to a student damaging the wiring harness while incorrectly probing the PCM.with 95 k on your truck I am 99% sure your starter is on the way out if you pull it off and open up the end plate you will find that the brushes are worn out
[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=33939]There is an established protocol when dealing with no start issues, yours specifically being “no start/no crank.” Below are videos that might help you out with your diagnostic testing:
Additionally, I have attached the starting schematic for your vehicle that I got from bbbind.com. I have identified some of the major players involved in your starting system:
- IGN E fuse, 10 amp
- Park/Neutral/Position (PNP) switch for automatics
- Clutch Start Switch for manual transmissions
- Starter Relay
- Left Battery
- Right Battery
- Junction Block
- Ignition Switch
- Powertrain Control Module
- Crank Fuse, 10 amp
- Starter Solenoid
- Starter
All the above components can be tested. All the above components can contribute to a no start/no crank condition. IF you get power to the ‘S’ terminal of your starter when the key is turned to ‘Start’ then you can eliminate all the above as a possibility and focus more on other things, like your solenoid and starter. Below are a couple of videos that might help you with an electrical diagnosis:
Keep in mind with a no start/no crank the problem could also be mechanical or ignition system related, so be prepared to consider a wide range of possibilities.
TSB’s
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=121993
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=126421
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=135587Not Related
Just speaking from my own personal experience, the last no start/no crank i dealt with was was on a chevy malibu and was due to a PCM not recieving the request to start the engine. This was most likely due to a student damaging the wiring harness while incorrectly probing the PCM.[/quote]Wow,Thank you very much for taking time to gather all that evidence for me,I really appreciate it. The truck when it does start runs perfectly normal,No check engine light,Idles smooth,Gets good gas millage,Has good power.Right now i’m really thinking it’s a bad starter,Reason being is that it was replaced with what i believe is a rebuilt unit.I know most people tend to stay away from rebuilt stuff,But the shop that dropped my good starter and had to buy me one probably took the cheapest route possible so he didn’t get beat up too bad :/ I’m gonna hope its the starter,Im also going to call the shop that did the work and see what they can do for me.
[quote=”stingray66″ post=33953]with 95 k on your truck I am 99% sure your starter is on the way out if you pull it off and open up the end plate you will find that the brushes are worn out[/quote]
I’m also thinking that the starter is the issue as well,Im going to guess and say it has a faulty re manufactured unit.
Unfortunately,I don’t have one of those meters,Gonna have to wait and see if im gonna try and fix the truck or have a shop do it,Im hoping the shop will install another starter for me.
It’s not good to assume when diagnosing a problem like this. You can pick up a DVOM pretty cheap these days, about $20 at an auto parts store. If you do those quick checks shown in the video while the problem occurs I’m sure you’ll be able to nail id down.
Keep us posted.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=34096]It’s not good to assume when diagnosing a problem like this. You can pick up a DVOM pretty cheap these days, about $20 at an auto parts store. If you do those quick checks shown in the video while the problem occurs I’m sure you’ll be able to nail id down.
Keep us posted.[/quote]
Thanks Eric,I totally agree with not putting my eggs all in one basket as far as blaming the starter goes.Thank you and i will keep you guys posted.
Alright,Well not so surprising but the truck still isn’t starting 🙁
For the hell of it i checked the fuse box,I noticed i have a 60A fuse missing for the VSES/ECAS,I have never messed with my fuses before ever,Stock radio in the truck and everything.Is that a Vital fuse to be missing? In the diagram on the cover it says it should be there.No check engine light though?And when running everything works.
Also,I did watch Eric’s No start/No crank issue,The engine does turn over,Has fresh oil i just checked it,Flexplate is good.Does the relay/fuse go bad for the starter,I mean is that a common problem?[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/507/fusesonsilveradoforectg.jpg/][IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img507/6282/fusesonsilveradoforectg.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us[/URL]
Also,I live in California,Truck is 2wd,It’s never seen snow,All the wiring looks good.I know how Eric has stated cars in California as long as they aren’t in snow tend to last longer as far as rust/deterioration goes.
If i am reading your post right, you are saying “the engine turns over..”. So now do we have a crank no start? If so you need to see if your missing spark or fuel.
[quote=”dreamer2355″ post=34161]If i am reading your post right, you are saying “the engine turns over..”. So now do we have a crank no start? If so you need to see if your missing spark or fuel.
Thank you for commenting.No,It is a No crank no start condition,Was towed home,Hours later went out to the truck and it started right up and ran perfectly normal for a few days.Now since yesterday,It has the No Crank No start condition again.
The battery voltage checked good from the aaa driver at 12.2 v,Which is slightly low,Eric says it should be no less than 12.4 V,But that was when the battery had some strain on it running lights and stuff for a while.The battery is just shy of 2 years old.The Starter and Starter Solenoid are 2 months old! It’s still shiny minus some hit marks from the tow truck driver assuming it may have been bad and he hit it with a hammer.That didn’t help.
So my conclusion is,I probably have a bad starter relay,They are like 10 bucks,They do go bad over time.It’s the original i can tell because all the other relays look identical and they are OEM.That relay is as old as the car.
I’m also hearing a Clicking noise from that area while trying to start it,I read an article on a site saying that if the relay is bad it will cause a No Crank/No start condition.So tomorrow im going to replace it,I figure for 10 bucks it’s worth the gamble to me.Alot cheaper then throwing a starter in it and it sure as hell might fix it.
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