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OK so I have a no crank / no start issue with my 1989 Accord, 260K+ mi, FI 2.0 L engine, 5 sp manual.
Been trying to do the right things by following Eric’s instructions and videos. So I know the Battery is shot as it reads 11.18 V. However, jumped it to a running car with a battery that reads 12.86V and still the same issue. I have removed the terminals and cleaned them inside & out. The positive cable is a sealed unit (see pic) so no access to the wires like in the video. Also can not see an easy way to access the starter terminal as it is sealed(see pictures). I have checked ALL of the fuses in the under the hood fuse box (including 2 main fuses) AND all of the fuses in the under the dash fuse box and all are good! Also, I removed and checked the clutch switch and it is good.
Anyway, when I turn the key I get the warning bells: door ajar and seat belt not fastened. I can see all of the normal lights on the dash appear when the key is turned. Initially had a funny sound near the passenger side footwell- sound like a whoop whoop of a siren or something (I’m terrible at describing sounds). Now I have a fast thumping sound which I tried to video but can’t figure out how to upload it!
Problem started last fall when I was replacing the radio unit. Had to tear out the console and remove a panel under the steering column. With that panel came two electronic bits I still can’t ID. But they are reinstalled when I have tried to start up. Anyway, during the radio repair, I left the door ajar and ran down the battery. Put a trickle charger on and it ran for a couple days before I got a full charge. Then tryied to start up – no crank. Had some other issues going on and wasn’t into crawling on the ground in the cold, so let everything sit for several months. Just started up on this project a week ago by putting the trickle charger on. Now I am as above.
So what is next in my diagnostic journey? What happened to send me from never a start problem to a no crank issue?
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Get a hold of an automotive test light and the starting wiring schematic. Start at the starter and work your way back to the ignition switch. Be sure to check fuses first, you might get lucky.
Thanks for the reply! Um, not the news I wanted to hear. I do have the Service Manual with several wiring diagrams, so I guess I could do that.
I have a multi-meter so I assume I am looking for voltage at each point as I work through the diagram?
Thought perhaps the rapid clicking sound would be indicative of the issue? Is there some kind of relay on the starter that could be bad?
But hey, If I have to go through the wiring, it will be a learning experience.
I can think of at least 5 reasons why you’re having such a problem. The best thing to do is test for power at each point in the system until you find the fault. Not the most glorious way to spend your day but very educational.
The rapid clicking is from the dead battery. The battery may not crank the motor if it has a dead cell even if it’s jumped from another vehicle. Your battery is even worse off because it’s been sitting for so long. You can take it in to autozone to have it load tested.
THANK YOU! I assumed that another batter in parallel would allow the engine to crank. My Bad! (learning experience) So I’ll go get a new battery since it is likely time anyway. Yes, I can have them test it before buying.
Any opinion on these “new” batteries – AGM type? Worth the extra expense?
Of course, if this doesn’t work, then the wiring diagrams & I will have to have an “affair!” lol
You have a 1989 Accord, 260K+ miles on it.
Though a AGM battery is worth the cost.
I have 2 yellow tops going on 10 years and no signs of replacing them any time soon..
But consider the cost ..
How much life is left in your vehicle?
Does it warrant the expense?
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