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My 1995 Corolla 1.6L overheated and now it won’t crank.
Ignition switch is not receiving voltage from the AM1 white wire. It’s continuity is good up to junction block #4.
Before the no crank condition began, the car was overheating and the heater did not work, yet the air conditioner was working.
I was running the A/C while driving because it activated the radiator cooling fans.
Somehow, a liquid mixture of gas, oil and water accumulated inside the air plenum. I soaked it up using a long wire and rags passed
through the throttle body.
Can anyone explain how the liquid got into the plenum?First task is to get the engine running before addressing the overheating problem.
Can anyone send me a copy of the inner circuitry for J/B#4.?
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It sounds like your coolant was low and you blew a head gasket. Either that or your radiator exploded (which is unlikely).
The heater probably didn’t work because there was no coolant in the heater core.This kept the engine from being able to dissipate heat. The heat build up caused the head to warp slightly which blew the head gasket. When the head gasket blew it filled the cylinders, egr system, vacuum lines, and intake with coolant and oil. The head gasket separates the coolant, oil, and combustion gases. If the gasket blows apart those things will all intermingle.
I don’t mean to scare you, but before you bother checking anything, I would make sure the engine is worth trying to save. Pull the sparkplugs, pop the trans in neutral and try to turn the engine by hand. If you can’t turn the engine it is probably toast.Thank you for the diagram. It may help later.
I saw an error on all the diagrams from Chilton, Haynes and the one you sent. They all show voltage going into J/B#1 at pin 1-1H.
Testing on the car reveals the voltage arrive at J/B#1 on pin 2-1H. Perhaps this is a difference between 1.6L and 1.8L wiring.Anyway, I cleaned all the contact on J/B#1 and plugged every connector back in. Then the engine started and I ran it for about 10 second, turned it off; then started and ran it again for 10 seconds.
The head gasket probably leaks. Must do more tests.
I cleaned all the contacts on J/B#1 plugged in all the connectors. Then I started the engine 2 times, letting it run for about 10 seconds each time.
You are may be right about the leaky head gasket. I did a compression check on all the cylinders and all showed 160 psi or better when the engine is cold.
I am going to warm up the engine and do another compression test.
I will look for water in the oil and in the oil pan.Perhaps I can do a cooling system pressure test or do a chemical test for mixed fluids.
You suggestions are welcomed.
The coolant level is real low at the moment. I want to do a warm engine compression test before I add coolant.
You suggestions are welcome.
I would opt for the chemical test. If you do a pressure test on the cooling system you run the risk of pushing more coolant into a cylinder. That could be catastrophic.
I ran the engine for 3-4 minuets and did another compression check.
The compression in three cylinders had fall from 165 down to 125 psi
Only one cylinder maintained 180 psi.I am wondering if the head is cracked.
So what are the options?
1) replace head gasket and possibly the head.
2) replace the engine.
3) attempt some type of sealing compound or stop leak.
4) Re-torque the head bolts and test again.You suggestions are welcome.
DO NOT retorque the head bolts. You will break a stud/bolt.
You’re going to need to pull the head and check for warping using a straight edge and feeler gauge. To clarify, I don’t mean something with a straight edge. I am talking about the actual straight edge (that’s it’s name) that you can get from some parts stores or welding shops or machinist supply shops.
You will need a manual to find the removal procedure and to find the tolerances of mating surfaces on the head.
If the head is with in spec then clean everything up slap a new gasket on and you can figure out where the coolant is leaking.
An important thing to note is: you NEED to follow a specific tightening pattern on the head bolts. All the bolts need to be torqued to a very specific value. Not having the correct torque on all the bolts will cause gasket failure and/or head warping.
Stay away from these sealing compounds. While there is a chance it will stop your leak (which sounds unlikely due to the severity) they will also gunk up other parts of the motor leading to future problems. I have dealt with the aftermath of these products first hand and they will usually make a simple cheap repair into an expensive one.[quote=”jeffburns777″ post=136093]So what are the options?
1) replace head gasket and possibly the head.
2) replace the engine.
3) attempt some type of sealing compound or stop leak.
4) Re-torque the head bolts and test again.
[/quote]1) Probably so (see buod’s post).
2) Overkill, unless you know there is something wrong with the bottom end.
3) Absolutely not. No such thing as a mechanic in a bottle. Never use these products.
4) Definitely not.Before you go diving into a head gasket job, I recommend you confirm the problem first. Just because you have low compression, that doesn’t mean you have a head gasket issue. If you suspect a problem with coolant getting into the combustion chamber, I recommend doing a block test to see if that’s the case. I cover that here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/what-to-do-when-your-engine-overheats
As for a compression problem, the best thing to do for that is a leak down test as it can tell you where the compression loss is.
Once you’ve made that determination you can then decide how to proceed.
Good luck and keep us posted.
The No Crank problem has returned. I don’t know why it went away temporarily. So, I am back to square 1 with a few new questions.
Question: Is there a low coolant safety feature that interrupts the starting and/or ignition system ?
Concerning the engine, I am going to do a leak down test in a few days.
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